Anyone using Philips X-treme vision +130% bulbs that can give an opinion of them?
woodwizard
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70 Posts
I just re-read your first post and realized that the 100 watt in the low beam and that might have contributed to the switch damage but it did not damage the wiring....so figure 80 watt low beam might be ok?
My 98 has the high beam on a relay...like whoever designed the electrical might have set the high beam circut up to carry more load.
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70 Posts
Ya..well ah.....the date code on the tires on the bike i just bought...7-97 they appear to be oem battle axes. They seem ok...minimal cracks and the ones it does have are not deep.no flat spots, minimal runout and the mirrors are as clear @20 mph as they are @120.
I don't know where the bike has been for the last 20 years but it wasn't near here.Those orange 5 gal buckets they sell @ home depot...they crumble after 2 months in the summer sun and even in the garage they might make 2 years. Car/truck tires might last 4 years, trailer tires, maybe 2. I launched my boat one time, came home..10 mile trip, 2 tires blew out in the driveway. The worst one, my buddy had a motor home tire/wheel in the back of his truck. It was in the sun 4 hrs...it blew up so hard it slamed a full size floor jack into the wheelwell so hard it tore all the spot welds and pushed the sheet metal into the tire on the truck...yep, i have 2 new battle axes on order and yes, i thought the headlights on my first B-bird were the shitz..that was 8 years ago...hey..maybe my eyes are going bad...lol....all i want is 'bring my own daylight' lol It sure seems like bulb manufactures are making the brightest bulbs they can within dot standards...got that 55/60 thing going on. It would be funny if an 80 watt halogen that costs less than $10 is just as good or better. I know some of the new led flashlights are really bright but the color sucks, if i want blue everything i will buy some Elton John glasses.
I don't know where the bike has been for the last 20 years but it wasn't near here.Those orange 5 gal buckets they sell @ home depot...they crumble after 2 months in the summer sun and even in the garage they might make 2 years. Car/truck tires might last 4 years, trailer tires, maybe 2. I launched my boat one time, came home..10 mile trip, 2 tires blew out in the driveway. The worst one, my buddy had a motor home tire/wheel in the back of his truck. It was in the sun 4 hrs...it blew up so hard it slamed a full size floor jack into the wheelwell so hard it tore all the spot welds and pushed the sheet metal into the tire on the truck...yep, i have 2 new battle axes on order and yes, i thought the headlights on my first B-bird were the shitz..that was 8 years ago...hey..maybe my eyes are going bad...lol....all i want is 'bring my own daylight' lol It sure seems like bulb manufactures are making the brightest bulbs they can within dot standards...got that 55/60 thing going on. It would be funny if an 80 watt halogen that costs less than $10 is just as good or better. I know some of the new led flashlights are really bright but the color sucks, if i want blue everything i will buy some Elton John glasses.
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70 Posts
Thanx much guys, good information. I think i will try a 100 watt halogen high be next. They are really cheap and if it isn't what i like
isn't like i paid to much money like the sylvania. Good to know that the wires are stout enough to carry the extra load without melting
although that doesn't necessarily mean i don't need a relay. Any time you put more load than a circuit was intended to carry there is a potential for voltage drop....Easy to check, connect one lead of a multi-meter set on DC volts to battery + and the other to the + at the bulb plug, start the motor and rev it enough for it to charge at a normal rate. Basically you are measuring how much voltage has and how much the bulb is actually getting. Be kind of dumb to stick a high wattage/draw bulb if the wires won't flow the necessary current. A 100 watt bulb that only gets 12.5 volts when a 55 watt bulb gets 13.2 might negate any improvement. Figure something less than .2 volts to be acceptable, any more it would get a relay with a feed wire big enough to get the voltage drop down around .02 volts or better. I work on boats, flat bottoms a jet boats. People will spend $150 on a decent electric fuel pump and run 20ft 18 gauge wire from the ignition switch all the way to the back of the boat. Add in the usual summer temp of 115+ and the fuel pump only gets 10-11 volts. The pump can't push enough fuel to keep the carbs full, makes tuning impossible and the pump motor won't last long running with low voltage.
And thanx for the headlight adjust info, i didn't even notice when i swapped bulbs, next time i have the filler panels off i will mess with the adjustment. Glad i had the bulb issue now, i was getting ready to install 2 relays for 'headlight and taillight ground control switches'
I'll need to open up the wire harness to it...
'Them thar ground control switches are really handy...like if the charging system fails i can just charge the battery, turn off all the lights to make it home" as long as you understand that doing it at night tends to piss off local law enforcement. They like to be able to see who they are trying pull over. lol
isn't like i paid to much money like the sylvania. Good to know that the wires are stout enough to carry the extra load without melting
although that doesn't necessarily mean i don't need a relay. Any time you put more load than a circuit was intended to carry there is a potential for voltage drop....Easy to check, connect one lead of a multi-meter set on DC volts to battery + and the other to the + at the bulb plug, start the motor and rev it enough for it to charge at a normal rate. Basically you are measuring how much voltage has and how much the bulb is actually getting. Be kind of dumb to stick a high wattage/draw bulb if the wires won't flow the necessary current. A 100 watt bulb that only gets 12.5 volts when a 55 watt bulb gets 13.2 might negate any improvement. Figure something less than .2 volts to be acceptable, any more it would get a relay with a feed wire big enough to get the voltage drop down around .02 volts or better. I work on boats, flat bottoms a jet boats. People will spend $150 on a decent electric fuel pump and run 20ft 18 gauge wire from the ignition switch all the way to the back of the boat. Add in the usual summer temp of 115+ and the fuel pump only gets 10-11 volts. The pump can't push enough fuel to keep the carbs full, makes tuning impossible and the pump motor won't last long running with low voltage.
And thanx for the headlight adjust info, i didn't even notice when i swapped bulbs, next time i have the filler panels off i will mess with the adjustment. Glad i had the bulb issue now, i was getting ready to install 2 relays for 'headlight and taillight ground control switches'
I'll need to open up the wire harness to it...'Them thar ground control switches are really handy...like if the charging system fails i can just charge the battery, turn off all the lights to make it home" as long as you understand that doing it at night tends to piss off local law enforcement. They like to be able to see who they are trying pull over.
lol
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70 Posts
Everybody seems to run 'legal' wattage bulbs? This is the only bike i ever owned that had H7 bulbs.
GS 1000 GPZ 900 KZ 1300 All ran H4 with a Hella lens with a 90/130 halogen...usually less than $15. I bought a sylvania
extra vision high beam....it is ok...i guess. Given the design of the B-bird headlight i guess i expect more.
I found an H7 80 watt halogen high beam, i guess i will try that next. Is it legal? Only if the headlight police catch me..lol
It can't be any worse than many other vehicles around here, this is the middle of the desert, there are no street lights,everybody runs with high beams on but they will shut them down, all you have to do is flash your high beams. Lookin at the H7 on B-bird i could get an H4 in there easily....Although they tend to cause a few problems. GS 1000 charging system doesn't
have much output and the headlight wires on the GPZ 900 melted after a week. It got a relay and it was fine, the KZ 1300 never ha a problem. Lookin at the headlight wires on B-bird it will get a relay for anything more than 80 watts. I know the charging system
has enough output, i ran hand wound heated grips on my first bird, they made enough heat to keep my hands warm, even if the temp was in the teens. I guess there is no easy way to change the aim of either beam? For me the low beam is a little low, i drive around town is all windy roads, every time i use the brakes i can't see past 40ft And the high beams are just a little high.The high beam does have an excellent long range pattern, i ran it with the low beam unplugged.
GS 1000 GPZ 900 KZ 1300 All ran H4 with a Hella lens with a 90/130 halogen...usually less than $15. I bought a sylvania
extra vision high beam....it is ok...i guess. Given the design of the B-bird headlight i guess i expect more.
I found an H7 80 watt halogen high beam, i guess i will try that next. Is it legal? Only if the headlight police catch me..lol
It can't be any worse than many other vehicles around here, this is the middle of the desert, there are no street lights,everybody runs with high beams on but they will shut them down, all you have to do is flash your high beams. Lookin at the H7 on B-bird i could get an H4 in there easily....Although they tend to cause a few problems. GS 1000 charging system doesn't
have much output and the headlight wires on the GPZ 900 melted after a week. It got a relay and it was fine, the KZ 1300 never ha a problem. Lookin at the headlight wires on B-bird it will get a relay for anything more than 80 watts. I know the charging system
has enough output, i ran hand wound heated grips on my first bird, they made enough heat to keep my hands warm, even if the temp was in the teens. I guess there is no easy way to change the aim of either beam? For me the low beam is a little low, i drive around town is all windy roads, every time i use the brakes i can't see past 40ft And the high beams are just a little high.The high beam does have an excellent long range pattern, i ran it with the low beam unplugged.
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