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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got around to bleeding/changing the brake fluid on the old bird. Seriously, I hadn't touched it in 40k miles but went for it, Went very well and being by myself used a dumb bell tied on the foot peddle to do the opposite front zerts. All seemed great except I noticed zero play on the front lever. So took her out for a spin and used lightly to end of block. I noticed some tension. I turned around and coming back I came to a stop using both. They locked down. Rears little more then front. So gassed her last 50 yards to a stop at the house. I opened the zerts a little to release pressure front and back and get her back in the paddock. They seemed fine after that. Theres still pressure on both that feels normal or better then before and no locking on the stand. Any tips on next test ride as I have the willys!
 

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How many years has it took for 40,000 miles?, I would keep it local, just to be sure it's ok, if it does it again, then your going to have to go through your system, first one is secondary master cylinder on left leg, the very small hole if they are sticking could be blocked from sediment from old brake fluid.
 

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Yer brake and clutch fluid's ever 2 years, but its really important to do the brakes with its linked system, as I put in my other post, the seceratery mastercylinder can play up if the brake fluid isn't done every 2 years, another one was my rear brake master cylinder had very fine particles in it, blocking the reservoir feed into the back of it, so if I pressed the rear brake it would take about 20 minutes to let go lol, luckily I had my bird on an abba stand and was changing my lines to a full hel brake line kit at the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hey there, finally got to bleeding and replacing the brake fluid using the defined steps. But on a couple test rides front or back lock up. Symptom of it coming on are levers feeling pressured or solid. No mush ever anyway but tension.
Researching saw a bleeding including lifting secondary and bleeding also.
How tough is it to get the secondary off (without a mess) to clean it out and check for rebuild need?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
also the second vid includes the secondary master up front left but I couldn't lift mine to try it let alone reach bleeder in back. ?
 

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Yep seems like it's time for a brake over hall.
Seems like you got a return pressure issue, so the pressure isn't leveling off after you let go of your brakes.
It's best buying a secondary mastercylinder repair kit with new seals, and also rear mastercylinder repair kit and a front mastercylinder repair kit.
If funds will allow get new caliper piston seals as well.
I know it's a pain in the area but theres no cutting corners really, sorry for the bad news.
I took my front fender and wheel off when I did my secondary master cylinder, remember its easyer to loosen banjo bolts though when there still bolted on.
There are a few good write ups on stripping the secondary master on here.
Take pictures as you go through things to help when putting it back together.
When you take the side plate off to get to the round plastic screen and the pin hole, you dont get a new oring in the kit to put the plate back on, I reused my old one with a dab of red rubber grease on it, not had any leaked, just take your time.
Mine was my rear master cylinder was part blocked with grit in the pin hole of the reservoir feed, very old fluid in it, previous owners not taking care with it.
If I pumped my back brake because of the linked system, the pistons would stick on for about 5 minutes before letting go again.
I did my whole brake system, and in the end it was my rear mastercylinder, but yours mite be a different reason.
Doing my whole system though made every thing feel like new though in the end, it's time and effort well spent for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks man, I need to take credit for the lack of maintenance. I was denying working on it thru horror stories of bleeding woes but never heard what the challenge was. Justified with "if it ain't broke doesn't need attention" saying which is pathetic. Did you have the format for bleeding down pat? The vids confused just a bit?
 

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I just followed the Haynes manual on bleeding them.
So its:-
front brakes
Start with front left caliper upper bleed valve.
Then do right upper bleed valve.

Rear brakes and linkage to front piston:-
Right front brake caliper centre bleed valve.
Left front caliper centre bleed valve, I use my stick to push the rear brake pedal down because I will be standing on the left other side of the bike with my 8mm ring spanner on the front left bleed nipple, opening and closing it as I bleed the system.
Rear caliper centre bleed valve.
Rear caliper rear bleed valve.
Remember to check fluid level every so often so it doesn't get to low.

I use a fish tank clear air pump tubing with a fish tank plastic air pump valve, there 1 way valves and cheap.
Remember though if your front wheel is off, you need to wedge some thing in the front calipers to stop the pistons popping out as you bleed the system lol. Circuit component Cable Auto part Engineering Metal
Gas Chemical compound Metal Engineering Carmine


If your very careful, you can prime the secondary master cylinder when refitting it with a syringe, and dont forget to have some clean water with dish soap in it on stand by for the brake fluid spills.
One last thing, I also use 50mm or 100mm syringe to help get air locks out by attaching it to which ever caliper bleed valve that's causing problems, just dont over force the pressure in either direction (pull or push).
 

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Oh almost forgot, when you buy the rear master cylinder rebuild kit, get oem one for your year bird, there are 2 aftermarket kits by tourmax out there and there slightly different, so oem is best was forward.
 
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