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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys
looking for some thoughts on my blackbird. In September 2016 replaced stator, rectifier & battery on my 2000 blackbird I have been using it to comute from Crawley to London for the past 4 months & all seemed ok. The other day was riding back & lights for indicators seem very dim. Anyway to cut long story short bike packed up on me, bump started it a got it home but battery flat as pancake. Have checked charging & getting just over 12.75v when at 3000 rpm. Thought either stator again or rectifier. Tested stator getting anything from 36v to 45v across phases. Seems ok. My question is that I put cables from rectifier on an old battery not connected to the bike & am getting 14.68v at tickover but doesn't rise when revved, as soon as I reconnect same battery to main wiring to bike so it will start run light etc all I get is about 12.7v at 3000 revs & above. Does this mean there is a problem in the wiring, maybe a short or similar. Any help, comment or thoughts would be apriciated. Thought I got this problem sorted with all the new bits.
 

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You might try checking any and all ground connections to the bike. Sounds like you've got all the electrical components taken care of so I would be looking for a questionable ground that maybe is contaminated with some corrosion or is loose. In general just start looking at all the connections throughout the bike and disconnect and cleanup even if they look ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You might try checking any and all ground connections to the bike. Sounds like you've got all the electrical components taken care of so I would be looking for a questionable ground that maybe is contaminated with some corrosion or is loose. In general just start looking at all the connections throughout the bike and disconnect and cleanup even if they look ok.
Thanks for your reply I was thinking this might be my next option but not looking forward to that task. Going to be a pain staking job.
 

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Might not be if you find it right away, lol. Look at the main ground connections first like the one that comes off the terminal and follow from there. I wish I could tell you the most likely suspects but other than that one I'm sure there is someone who will know better.
 

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I swapped the std R/R for an FH020AA r/r ( higher rated capacity.)

As part of the swap - I have bypassed the bikes loom and have gone directly to the battery ( with a 30amp fuse in the positive line )

At the same time I installed a higher capacity YTX14-BS battery.

The above setup has been on the bike for almost 8 years now, the new r/r runs almost cold and the voltage sits between 13.9 and 14.4 regardless
of what revs I'm at or what I have switched on ( headlights, cooling fan, satnav etc )
 

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Same as Deano above but not that long (8yrs). You tried taking the "new battery" off and substituting for the old battery? Check earths as well. Ive drilled a hole in the subframe and run a seperate earth from the battery to there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I swapped the std R/R for an FH020AA r/r ( higher rated capacity.)

As part of the swap - I have bypassed the bikes loom and have gone directly to the battery ( with a 30amp fuse in the positive line )

At the same time I installed a higher capacity YTX14-BS battery.

The above setup has been on the bike for almost 8 years now, the new r/r runs almost cold and the voltage sits between 13.9 and 14.4 regardless
of what revs I'm at or what I have switched on ( headlights, cooling fan, satnav etc )
Have replaced r/r with one that goes directly to battery as well, but as I say disconnect battery from bike then connect the r/r cables and showes 14.6v at tickover but when I reconnect back to bike won't go above 12.7v whatever revs. Battery replaced in sept ect did the whole lot thought it would rectify the probs been ok for 4-5months then just went the other day
 

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Have replaced r/r with one that goes directly to battery as well, but as I say disconnect battery from bike then connect the r/r cables and showes 14.6v at tickover but when I reconnect back to bike won't go above 12.7v whatever revs. Battery replaced in sept ect did the whole lot thought it would rectify the probs been ok for 4-5months then just went the other day
Does the bike sit for long periods not being used ? - potentially taking the battery too low for recovery.

Do you get the same voltage results on the centre stand as you do on the side stand ? - indication of low battery fluid level cos it uncovers the plates on the side stand

Does the battery charge ok on a std charger ( not on the bike ) - could just be a screwed battery that will never charge
 

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Hi guys
looking for some thoughts on my blackbird. In September 2016 replaced stator, rectifier & battery on my 2000 blackbird I have been using it to comute from Crawley to London for the past 4 months & all seemed ok. The other day was riding back & lights for indicators seem very dim. Anyway to cut long story short bike packed up on me, bump started it a got it home but battery flat as pancake. Have checked charging & getting just over 12.75v when at 3000 rpm. Thought either stator again or rectifier. Tested stator getting anything from 36v to 45v across phases. Seems ok. My question is that I put cables from rectifier on an old battery not connected to the bike & am getting 14.68v at tickover but doesn't rise when revved, as soon as I reconnect same battery to main wiring to bike so it will start run light etc all I get is about 12.7v at 3000 revs & above. Does this mean there is a problem in the wiring, maybe a short or similar. Any help, comment or thoughts would be apriciated. Thought I got this problem sorted with all the new bits.
The fuse at the starter solenoid melts and causes problems, also the Black thin wire from the ignition switch to RR might be worth a look, if it is OC then the RR will not work properly, it is supposed to sense the charging voltage and adjust to keep it within range

not sure how you made the connection to the old battery that you describe
 

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Tested stator getting anything from 36v to 45v across phases. Seems ok.
Assuming you're reading AC voltage across the three phases of the stator you should be getting over 50vac at 3000rpm I believe but I have seen 65-70vac. 45v seems low and places suspicion on the stator in my mind.
 

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Assuming you're reading AC voltage across the three phases of the stator you should be getting over 50vac at 3000rpm I believe but I have seen 65-70vac. 45v seems low and places suspicion on the stator in my mind.
depends if they are still connected to the RR
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thx for your comments guys, have fitted a different r/r that doesn't go through the loom & just goes direct to battery, so plug that attached original regulator now just in a waterproof box under seat. I was under the impression that as long I was getting voltage from stator across all three phases it was ok but will need to look into how much I should be getting. Little black wire not used any more. When I put in stator, r/r & battery just connected r/r to battery via the two leads one - & one + with a fuse in. I assumed it was the stator but now just totally confused. May be time to get professional to look at it. Thx for your help guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bike was being used every day to comute to London from Crawley area so was all good but just stopped on me on way home one day. Battery seems ok on trickle charger as seems to hold its charge ok.
 

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Thx for your comments guys, have fitted a different r/r that doesn't go through the loom & just goes direct to battery, so plug that attached original regulator now just in a waterproof box under seat. I was under the impression that as long I was getting voltage from stator across all three phases it was ok but will need to look into how much I should be getting. Little black wire not used any more. When I put in stator, r/r & battery just connected r/r to battery via the two leads one - & one + with a fuse in. I assumed it was the stator but now just totally confused. May be time to get professional to look at it. Thx for your help guys
I am completely confused now, may I suggest you go all the way back to stock and start again, refit the original RR and connect it as it should be then lets see where we're at

as for the stator readings...................it should be tested with the plug disconnected from the RR and read the voltages between 1-2 2-3 3-1 (not to earth) they should be reading about 40-80vac depending on revs between each winding...................there should be no reading to the frame (ground) from each winding on ohms, if that is what you get then your stator is fine and forget about it.

I've been through this myself over the years several times and the last time it was the battery, not going into details but is was a weird one with the battery reading 13.6v......to high

another issue is the main fuse melts - the one mounted on the starter solenoid which causes issues.

rule out the stator thrn get back to what you know should work i.e. stock
 

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The most simple charging circuit is the best - taking the battery wires out of the loom and going direct to battery is common now.
Technology Diagram Electronic device Electrical wiring


There is absolutely no reason to put the charging system through the bikes loom.

As for the extra black wire on the Fi bikes - that is only required for the OEM r/r that needs telling when to regulate the charging.

The FH and SH regulators from shendengen do this internally and don't need the black wire connecting.
 

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Also all 3 phases don't have to be 45 but it would be nice. More importantly they should be within a couple volts of each other. What your readings would tell me is that you have a weak phase. Meaning that stator's on it's way out
 

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The most simple charging circuit is the best - taking the battery wires out of the loom and going direct to battery is common now.
View attachment 84170

There is absolutely no reason to put the charging system through the bikes loom.

As for the extra black wire on the Fi bikes - that is only required for the OEM r/r that needs telling when to regulate the charging.

The FH and SH regulators from shendengen do this internally and don't need the black wire connecting.
The chap is having problems, I am simply suggesting hitting the reset button and going back to what should definitely work.

As for not using the bikes own charging wiring - I see absolutely no benefit in this at all - there are a dew issues like fuse holders that need attention but this can be addressed without rewiring the bike

At this point something is not working on the bike as described by the OP - I don't believe it is the stator so only two other things that are involved - the battery and the RR, the RR is not stock and the wiring is not stock - maybe you can make an alternative suggestion on what is wrong


also getting 12.75v on the battery (in bike under load) tells me the stator is outputting nothing, it may well decide to output something if you connect it to a battery that is not connected to the bike and therefore the RR output is not under any load from the bike electrics - my money is on the RR unable to supply current under load provided the info on the stator is rechecked and confirmed to be ok i.e. tested while unplugged
 

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Hi
I had problem with my blackbird flating batterys then speedo and rev dials fail after that you got 3 miles then bike dies !
Put new battery andca new rectifer on as it was reading low
Charging normal ! After 12 .months been ok
But been on longer ride today after 150miles batts died
Bump started bike was nightmare after 10 miles it would stop tick.over for 5 mins then go again!
After 9 miles would not rev but ticked over
Was charging at tick but not at higher revs
After nightmare return journey ! Broke down 50 times going less and less til at last home
Checked charger it was over charging to 16v plus battery was ready explode ! Buldging out have job get it off bike !

Guess the cheap rectifer ! Off ebay was trash !
Looking for original used one now and new batt fix !

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

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look on the top of the starter solinoid - there is a fuse holder with a 30amp fuse - this is a known problem

but -

If you are seeing 16v on the battery then the RR is 100% faulty, buy a good quality mosfet RR ($130) rarely seen on ebay they are mostly fakes
 

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Assuming you're reading AC voltage across the three phases of the stator you should be getting over 50vac at 3000rpm I believe but I have seen 65-70vac. 45v seems low and places suspicion on the stator in my mind.
Have replaced r/r with one that goes directly to battery as well, but as I say disconnect battery from bike then connect the r/r cables and showes 14.6v at tickover but when I reconnect back to bike won't go above 12.7v whatever revs. Battery replaced in sept ect did the whole lot thought it would rectify the probs been ok for 4-5months then just went the other day
 
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