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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2000 Bird just died on me while I was riding. Though it was a fuel issue ad my gauge is not working. Filled the tank and the bike got me home. Tried starting it the next day and the pump didn't prime. But if I bypass the pump relay the pump works. There is no spark either. I did the loom fix several years ago. But I checked it and all the wires are clean and soldered . The FI light doesn't come on. My bike is the HISS model. I'm suspecting the ECU is broken . Is there any other thing I should check?
 

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Check the start/stop circuit. This includes the ignition switch, handlebar on/off switch, neutral switch, side stand switch, tip over switch. There is a 559 page service manual on this site for download that contains a wiring diagram on page 550. Click on the forum called "resource center", you will find it with a little digging.

Anyway, the ECU is looking for all systems go from the start/stop circuit before it will energize the bike. A bad ECU should be at the very end of the troubleshooting list. Firstly, make certain it is not the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check the start/stop circuit. This includes the ignition switch, handlebar on/off switch, neutral switch, side stand switch, tip over switch. There is a 559 page service manual on this site for download that contains a wiring diagram on page 550. Click on the forum called "resource center", you will find it with a little digging.

Anyway, the ECU is looking for all systems go from the start/stop circuit before it will energize the bike. A bad ECU should be at the very end of the troubleshooting list. Firstly, make certain it is not the battery.
The start/stop switch failed in the past so it has been bypassed. Side stand switch is working because if the stand is up the engine won't turn over. The neutral switch is also functioning as the N light displays in neutral and goes off when put in gear . The tip switch Was replaced with a known working one. Is there any way of checking the HISS to confirm if it is working apart from the flashing led? The battery was swapped with known working ones with 13.1 volts
 

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Don't know much about HISS, but try the other key. I assume if HISS not happy then bike will not fire, so I would chase that down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Don't know much about HISS, but try the other key. I assume if HISS not happy then bike will not fire, so I would chase that down.
Now I found out that the Sub harness that goes to the throttle handle on the right grip had a lot of wires that were Burnt together. Also the HISS key ring transponder wire was fused together with it.
I separated all the wires and started it , it primed and started ok. Switched off and tried again and it didn't prime. Waited a bit and tried again it started but ran for about 10 sec and died. Tried again ,no prime. Waited a bit , it started for 10 sec and died.
Replaced the HISS key ring transponder same situation.

Any suggestions what I could try next apart from replacing the ECU?
 

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As I said before, don't know much about HISS. Can I assume for correct operation; key on, HISS light on, wait a few secs, HISS light off? Similar to the FI light?

A new ECU is a drastic step, hard to find, expensive, and no guarantee of success.

Anyway, first off, I would double/triple check all those burnt wires.

What exactly is the HISS light doing now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Normal operation of the HISS light is it is on normally. When the key is inserted it goes off. If it stays on it means the key has not been identified and the bike won't start.
The FI light comes on only when the ignition is switched on and the pump primes.

The bike starts once and runs for 10sec then goes off . Try again and it won't prime unless you switch off and wait a bit . Then the same thing will happen.

The burnt wires are for the headlight control and kill switch. The kill switch has been bypass from the subharness assembly . I tried a new HISS key hole transponder with the same results.

When the bike doesn't prime there is no spark either.
 

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When you say it runs for 10 seconds then dies, is that a consistent thing? i.e. it always starts, runs for 10 seconds, stops, must be turned off, wait, REPEAT .. ?
Or that's just a generic description and the symptoms are much more messy than that?
Have you tried your other HISS key? Maybe there s something going on with that key's chip?

Edit - I see fizzy suggested to try the other key too. But i dont see where you said you tried that - you said you changed the HISS transponder ring ... just a thought
 

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Do you have an alarm system on it as well. Sounds like there is and it's disabling both ignition pulse and pump priming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes I tried the other key. There is no alarm system. I just got a HISS service pamphlet so I'm studying it to understand how the HISS disables the ECU.
 
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