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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi XX Lovers,
I previously posted a tested in rush of a Shindengen SH847AA serie Regulator in my research of best R/R ever, the one who will not burn my stator.

I have now a test campaign with 4 R/Rs
-(20€) AliExpress MOSFET FH020AA "LP2" engraved
-(25€) Original Shindengen FH021BA, pre-owned (from HONDA NC700-750) specific connector but really a badged FH020AA.
-(30€) AliExpress Series Regulator (supposed to be) copy of Compu-Fire 55402.
-(200€) Official Shindengen SH847AA Serie Regulator I bought/imported from Japan (Webike) for Suzuki V-Strom 1000 original spare.

I am finishing to prepare the pictures, figures and type a compilation in an .xls file for better analysis.

Stay tuned....

Read this previous post first:
Light Automotive fuel system Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle
SH847AA Series Regulator / Suzuki P/N# 32800-31J00...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
The goal of this test campaign is to confirm Serie Regulators are the best solution for any motor with permanent magnet rotor generator.
Because the normal transistor shunt R/R or MOSFET shunt regulator (even MOSFET is an improvement), both still stress and heat the stator coils until failure.

When I repaired my BBird, I thought why should I spend hundreds of € for a regular rectifier (so standard device), I can buy cheap from AliExpress, it is not space vessel technology there.

I was wrong and also in the truth too...
Now I have many R/R, looking for the one who I believe will close at once for ever the subject of R/R failure, Stator burning, battery boiling, wire/plug burning...

After my test, I can conclude this:
For wire/plug burning... Just soldering the wires because oxydation creates resistance, that it.

For the R/R, just upgrade to MOSFET, never fail or overheat again.

To keep the stator never burned, upgrade to Series Regulator such as SH847AA and relocate it where air flow blows the dissipators (right side instead of left).

Yes I saw on every forum the same conclusion but I wanted to experience it with test and figures to confirm such conclusions.

Test setup:
I have 2 digital meter.
I don't need the output VDC measure, I know they work well and I need more data from the stator wires:
  • The Coils V.AC voltage and pulse Hz
  • The coil intensity load (using ampermetric clamp on one coil phase).
-this engine RPM at 1-2-3-4krpm figures.

First some measurements with unplugged Regulator just to check the V.AC when no regulator drop it down.

Musical instrument accessory Automotive tire Audio equipment Technology Auto part
Electronic device Fixture Machine Auto part Automotive tire


40VAC only @3000 rpm when there is no regulator to cut off or shunt the coils.

Interesting, this is the way to check each coil status in additional to the coil ohm measurement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Some pictures of the test campaign especially SH847AA and FH021BA both at 4000 rpm.
Speedometer Odometer Car Tachometer Vehicle


Automotive tire Automotive lighting Electrical wiring Tool Vehicle


Luggage and bags Trunk Bag Automotive lighting Motor vehicle


Speedometer Vehicle Odometer Car Tachometer


Gadget Audio equipment Steering part Gauge Auto part


Gadget Audio equipment Automotive tire Machine Electronic device


And finally, my compiled and commented tables of figures.

Font Rectangle Material property Parallel Pattern


Any one who can explain the figures are welcome.

Finally I am running with SH847AA as main primary RR and the FH021BA as pre-cabled backup on the original location.

If you can, upgrade to the SH847AA.
FH020AA or any MOSFET is good to go.
If you can only afford a cheap but good solution, go to AliExpress copy of FH020AA, the one with "LP2" and at this AliExpress marchand I've got my FH020AA fully functional.

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thanks for taking the time to gather and compile this information.

i'm reminded i should upgrade my r/r before another stator failure...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You are welcome.
I was also inspired by other forumers too, so I share my experience too.

Now I got theses figures... I am wondering a new test with full consumption (headlights, handles heater and fan on... Just to understand how MOSFET and Series R/R react... I am just curious...

I predict this (only my guess):
MOSFET shunt R/R will have much higher AC voltage as the regulator will shunt less the coils to provide more Amp to the high consumption, thus the pulse will increase (shunting masks the pulse). Ampermetric Clamp will always display 25A as this is the total dump+consumption A (causing coil to heat).

Series R/R: Almost same AC voltage or sligly lower, same pulse figures (promotional to rpm), higher ampermetric clamp (maybe 8+12=20A) as the SH847 R/R will ask more Amp to the Coil to feed the higher consumption demand. That would be the perfect R/R.
Test next weekend...
 

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Good on you for doing this, very interesting.
I have to imagine that the R&D costs for the Chinese FH020AA all went into the outer casing, making it look "real". Your test is on a brand new unit, I wonder how it would test after 10 000 miles?
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I use my Chinese (this model specifically) for only 4000 km without any problem.
I can't guarantee it is good to go for 10.000 miles or not.
I wanted to test a Chinese Series Reg (CF 55402) which is finally a shunt R/R thanks to the test results.
I experienced other problems (wires melted due to incorrect use of acid during soldering) but not due to the Chinese R/R at all.

Of course, if you can afford a genuine Shindengen R/R, at least a MOSFET FH020AA or BA (I think BA is better for Lithium Battery charging over voltage limitation), so go ahead against your Original transistor SCR shunt R/R.
If you can buy a pre-owned one for decent price, no worry as MOSFET is very durable switches and never auto-burn thanks to its technology.
Of course, the best is Series R/R Shindengen SH847AA (make sure this big boy get fresh air), and climp+soldering wires/connectors on the waterproof plugs.
Should keep your Stator safe and cool, no amp stress (avoid carameled oil on the hot coils).

Again, I just share my experience and my conviction base on tests, I am not selling anything... Everyone decides what is good for his BBird and wallet...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Finally, drove my BBird to the office today and before leaving afterwork, performed the test without risk of disturbing people around (no residencial house there).
My main SH847AA temp at right side (R/R warmed during engine warming)
Bicycle handlebar Automotive tire Outdoor recreation Measuring instrument Gadget


My redondancy backup MOSFET at left side:
Automotive parking light Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


V.AC stator voltage pickup and Ampermetric Clamp pickup.
Motor vehicle Gauge Audio equipment Electrical wiring Cable


Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Automotive tire Bumper Audio equipment


The link to the SH847AA test video, Loaded then Unloaded: VID_20210930_181815.mp4

The link to the FH021BA video, Unloaded then Loaded: VID_20210930_182633.mp4

And finally, my figures table (xls) with my analysis and conclusion... My guess before this test was correct.
This will help you guys to decide to invest in a SH847AA for sure!
Et Voilà :
Rectangle Font Material property Parallel Music


My Google drive link: Benchmark RR Loaded Unloaded.pdf

Thanks for reading!
"V"
 

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Hello
Thanks for the post
Is their any danger to using a Chinese r/r?
Also did you manage to check the voltage at idle for the Chinese r/r?
 

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PatooNet, nice post and thanks for the figures. I've been running the SH847 for nearly 3 yrs now with no issues. However I used a rewound stator from a UK supplier that lasted 8k miles, failed, fitted another and that failed after 3 k. Reverted to a used OEM one 18 months ago. No issues at all, constant 14.3/14.5 volts. Mileage since is probably 15k UK miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I think, base on my short usage (few k with each Chinese fake FH020AA/CF55402, mostly they dont fail but the wires and connectors do fail.
I suspect the original diodes shunt RR or Mosfet RR just push to the limit of an old and oxydized wires/connectors, this make them to burn due to resistance rising (less conductivity with oxydizing).
All my Chinese fake MOSFET worked well for few k test.
When I look at the price for the official FH020AA and the SH847AA, I think it is worth it to put $90 more to get the Serie RR with the promise to keep the stator cooler as the test proved it because the new stator will cost much more then the $90 extra.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
PatooNet, nice post and thanks for the figures. I've been running the SH847 for nearly 3 yrs now with no issues. However I used a rewound stator from a UK supplier that lasted 8k miles, failed, fitted another and that failed after 3 k. Reverted to a used OEM one 18 months ago. No issues at all, constant 14.3/14.5 volts. Mileage since is probably 15k UK miles.
I think the stator is really in a stress position:
  • Stress by the hot location diving in hot burning engin oil (supposed to cooled the coils when using Shunt/Mosfet RR
  • Stressed because the coils still drain 15A out there (vs 25 for shunt RR)
  • Stressed just because this is just nearby the engine, even part of it.
So I guess, even this is a static part, it need to be solid built with quality insulation coating on the copper wire.

Back to Chinese MOSFET... the power chip itself is all made in China.
The rectifier part uses Chinese Diodes... finally MOSFET RR uses quite common components widely made in China.
I do believe the Chinese MOSFET RR are decent if they don't abuse with fake chips but normal chips.
They still make money selling them at $25-30.
Again, my after testing 4 of them (the one looks like the original Honda, with the short connectors butned within 2min... but none of my Chinese MOSFET/fake CF55402 failed).
 
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