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Discussion Starter #1
Well i finally got my redbird back on the road and it was handling beautifully, a joy to ride, really felt nimble and quick to turn, leaned lovely.
And then....
I heard a knocking noise..
Which is only there when it comes on power about 3.5 - 4,000 rpm
Seems to be coming from mid/top end, rather than big end knocking.
Its present regardless of clutch and only under load.
Whipped the fairings off again and rechecked the balance shafts and the cam chain tensioner (fitted new by previous owner and basically zero milage.
So looks like a rebuild.
This sucks big time, i have sorted soo many issues with this recently acquired machine I've hardly managed to ride it and just as thought I'd finally sorted EVERYTHING "boooom" first good test ride and this happens.
Just prior to this knocking, i heard a loud squealing noise which changed pitch. It went above 2k rpm and was only present for a short time, which led me to check the balance shafts. But the balance shafts was a totally different noise. This noise was LOUD and squealy.
Maybe the prelude to what sounds like a 'small end' failure?
Anyone had an experience similar to this?
Thank god i didn't sell the Triumph (ST955i) Good old dependable Triumph, on 66,000 miles and still pulls as strongly as the day it was built. I was totally prepared to sell it as soon as this beautiful sexy red bird came along ?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pretty sure it's not the CCT.. No proof, but it looks new and i put a screwdriver in the slot whilst it was running and it seemed to be working OK.
This noise is quite a loud and definite 'knock'
I recorded it, but unfortunately its in 3gp file format(with no option to change)
Installed another sound recorder which saves in MP3 so will record it again tomorrow and upload. Maybe you would be able to tell? Its only present once the power comes on and sounds awful :/ like engine failure awful
 

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Sounds like someone who isn't a good mechanic rebuilt it themselves to save money and messed up. It happens all the time speaking from a dealer point of view.

Or one or more rod bearings is shot, but you said top end... it can be hard to tell sometimes. Sorry but the only thing I can suggest is to stop running it and take it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
To be honest I think you might be right on the money there..
There are new gaskets all round, so maybe p.o went in there and from the rest of the bike, his mechanical knowledge was not amazing..
I only noticed the new sump gasket last night as i was going around with the listening stick.
I think it is the Conrod>piston/gudgeon pin bearing/s by the sound.
Its difficult to tell. But yes, its parked up now. Unfortunately I don't have any covered space to take it apart, which I'd really like to do.
The bikes only on about 36k. It was sat up for a few years then it was refteshed.
The last MOT says 29k in Nov 07
I've ridden it about 400 miles with no problems (although i thought I heard a squeal one time, but its difficult to tell with helmet on/air noise/ loud exhausts and its been making good power.
The knock has literally just happened after I've sorted all the niggles out
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The squeal was very strange. Seriously loud and changed pitch. Eaxh time it's not lasted long and only present at certain revs.. A dry squeal. The sort of squeal that makes engineers cringe!
I thought maybe I'd tightened the chain slightly too much and it was the output shaft, so redid that and pulled the front sprocket, cleaned and regressed everything in the vain hope it would sort it..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Do you think it's possible to drop the sump and pull the pistons with the engine still in the bike?
 

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Do you think it's possible to drop the sump and pull the pistons with the engine still in the bike?
Pistons can not come out the bottom, only way to work on this thing properly is with the engine out, which is not the end of the world job wise. I've done it twice in the last 18 months.
 

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I have a complete injection engine in my garage it's low miles apparently it was smoking so the head was removed I've inspected it and can't see any reason it was burning oil any parts you want let me know I can do them cheap as chips the only parts missing are clutch and cases
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Im wondering what could have caused the top ends to fail.. and if the squealing is connected.. Maybe Oil pump.. do they squeal when on way out?
Unfortunately its taken up so much time lately, that i think it's just going to have to either sit there till i can do something about it, or take it to a bike shop which would be ££££ i suspect.
I would like to rebuild it myself, as at least i would know what's there and everything would be done spot on, but just haven't got any covered area or even space to rebuild the engine once its out as my workshop is rammed, and there is too much grinding dust/metal filings/crap flying about!
Really must make that bike shed..
 

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The first time I just brought the motor inside, I mean I wasn't using the dining room for much anyway.

On the plus side my mechanical skills, though still lacking are much better than they were 5 yrs ago. I do have many bike mechanics to rely on for help , kind of a big plus being in the biz.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
And what's wrong with the kitchen table?:rotfl:
Dishwasher brill 4 degrease 2
i was actually considering the kitchen table!! Hmm life could be much simpler being single ��
Think i may have to make room in the house and then lock the door so my 2 year old son can't get in there!! He just can't help but pull things apart and try putting them back together in the wrong places (bit like the P.O of my bike ��)

Is getting the engine out a one man job?
 

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Remove exhausts etc, put trolly jack under engine, make wood frame to hold it in place first. Unbolt engine mounts etc and pipework and wiring. 2 people lift bike frame complete off engine in jack. Only last part require 2 people.
 

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Have containers ready for coolant and oil, the oil lines will drip forever and when you think they're dry they'll drip more when you reinstall them,as will the rad.Have containers for bolts etc, you don't want to mix them up. The only special tool needed is for the castle nut on the rear mounting collars but you can get around that carefully with a punch,they just lock the threaded collar into place against the cases. Leave the lower rear bolt for last and tilt the motor forward.The higher you can get the frame up (and stable!) the easier getting it out will be. There are spacers on the back 2 bolts, they're a pain sometimes going back in fyi.
Doesn't hurt to have proper fuel line clamps too, but an 8mm bolt works nice on the return hose (right side).
If the rod bolts come out they have to be replaced and the nuts.
My apologies if you're aware of some of this, don't know your mechanical skill level.
It weighs about 84 kg so be ready.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Brilliant thanks guys, appreciated.
I recon this is achievable.
My mechanical skill level is pretty good, although not had an engine completely disassembled for a good few years. But its pretty much like clockwork.
When im stripping machinery i sometimes use a piece of cardboard, push a bolt through and write next to it or put them in the outline of whatever it is im taking apart, works quite well.
For this I'd get several heavy duty fruit boxes, line with a piece of foam to stop parts rolling around and then some blue roll on top of that, with relevant bolts kept together, either pushed through card or in suitable container.
One for the head/camshafts, one for internals etc
I guess its set the timing marks to TDC then remove the camshaft sprocket and whip the head off?
The Conrods have Bolts AND Nuts?
Replacing Head bolts is standard practise, but get new connecting rod bolts too yes?
I should probably have a good read through the Manual (i usually look at manuals once i get stuck!! Bad practise I'm sure.. But sometimes they overcomplicate things
 

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Yes, bolts and nuts, ALWAYS replace. No need to take sprockets off camshafts, it is tricky to get the timing marks right going back together so be patient. I've had to walk away and come back and then no problem.
How many kms are on it?
I've never replaced the head bolts or cam holder bolts, hmmm, probably should.Don't remember that in the manual. Also nowhere in the manual does it mention an amount for cam chain stretch.Please if someone has seen this let me know. I replaced mine last year (64,000 km & several hundred 1/4 mile passes) and it had stretched a leeetle bit. Maybe a couple mm.
With the head off and the valves in you can spray brake clean into the ports to see if it leaks past the valves.The valves in these motors can be lapped,I've also had a few seats recut. Well mines had a harder life than most but its STILL ON ALL THE ORIGINAL CRANK BEARINGS AND TRANSMISSION GEARS AND SHIFT FORKS!!! Can't say that for the Busa and kawi owners with similar abuse that I've met.
The gears and clutch can all stay together when splitting the cases.The cam holders are numbered so its easy to follow sequence.
There is a drain bolt on the front of the cylinder for coolant, it never drains completely when you take off the lower rad hose.
Depending on the mileage, also realizing you don't know the exact history, you may want to purchase an entire gasket kit, usually these are sold top and bottom.Top will have valve seals, I don't like or trust aftermarket valve seals and some of the cheap name head gasket, like Vesrah and Winderosa. So go oem if you're going the full route.However, a lot of o-rings that that come in the kits will not be needed,possibly even oil seals like c/shaft and push rod etc, but that's if you knew if they are original or not. In any case you can get by with reusing the valve cover gasket, I've used mine up to 3-4 times.The o-rings on the oil pipes inside the oil pan never wear. You'll need (2) 12mm crush washers for the fuel line and 6mm for the head (4). 3 case cover gaskets, tensioner gasket,head,exhaust and pulser cover gasket.
And read the manual.
 
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