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Good day Everyone, I need help please. I have just bought a 99 Bird, FI model, She has a problem when switching on her headlights she splatters, but pulls through, when switching on the indicator she dies. I have checked all the plugs I could find, tested the battery, but I dont know where to go now.
 

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Either you have
1. A short somewhere, or more likely a dodgy ground connection. Clean handlebar switches, check ground on frame near battery then google "loom fix Honda blackbird". The loom fix should be done anyway. 2. Poor performing charging system. Turning on accessories can lower voltage below that required to run the bike. Should be around 14v or so at speed.
 

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When you say tested the battery. How load check or just at the terminals. With the bike off connect to the battery terminals. Key off should be 13.2 or better with the key on you should be above 12.5. Cranking you need 9.5 or better. Once its started you should see 13.2 or better at idle and 14 to 14.5 at 5000 rpm.
Check these numbers and let us know and we can go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Either you have
1. A short somewhere, or more likely a dodgy ground connection. Clean handlebar switches, check ground on frame near battery then google "loom fix Honda blackbird". The loom fix should be done anyway. - cleaned all switches, handlebars and all. What is a loom fix?

2. Poor performing charging system. Turning on accessories can lower voltage below that required to run the bike. Should be around 14v or so at speed. - batter 100% running, starting all charge 100%
 

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That's why I said google it. There is a connector buried in the main loom near the battery that corrodes and gives your symptoms. The fix is to cut it out and solder the wires together. They are mostly ground wires and this is where the dodgy ground comes from. There are other trouble spots too, but this is the most common.
 

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When you say tested the battery. How load check or just at the terminals. With the bike off connect to the battery terminals. Key off should be 13.2 or better with the key on you should be above 12.5. Cranking you need 9.5 or better. Once its started you should see 13.2 or better at idle and 14 to 14.5 at 5000 rpm.
Check these numbers and let us know and we can go from there.
So what was the cranking voltage.
 

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If the cranking voltage is good then its time to start chasing grounds as fizz mentions. There's a main one down by the tank bolts. The rest you'll have to ask others. Desert climates have thier advantages for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am actually not sure, they cleaned out the plug, found two wires touching, sealed all the wires again and Bob's your uncle, all sorted.
 

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Ok, "they" bought you some time. Once corroded as in your pic, that connector has terminal cancer. Permanent fix is to cut it out and solder appropriate wires together.
 

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Second what fizzy says.if you pull it apart
You will see that the connectors are grouped. What I mean by that is the pins are connected at the base. Mark the wires accordingly and then solder them in groups to simulate the tie bar they were joined like. Tape/ seal them up and you'll be worry free again.
There are a number of how to threads in the electrical section here. Do a search I think there may even be one in the resources section.
 

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I would second what has been said above but would add that when you come to solder the wires together make sure you strip back to good copper core. Every bike that I have fixed has one or more very black (corroded) wires. It is not unusual to have to solder in an extra length so that you can bunch the wires neatly.
I use self amalgamating tape, so far my fix has lasted 19 years (famous last words)
 
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