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Discussion Starter #1
Tonight I cranked my bird up to head home and had a neutral to leave it idling. I walked away from the bike and left it idling for 2 3 minutes as it was cold outside. All of a sudden I started to hear a metal on metal noise coming from it. It has 24,700 miles. When I pull in the clutch the noise sounds exactly the same, no change. I wrote it home two and a half miles and it performed great I can still hear the metal or metal noise throughout the ride but could not tell anything different in performance. I'm thinking transmission or something with the clutch but not sure. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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Best if you could get a sound or video clip please. Then we can start to chime in on possibilities
 

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Check your idle rpm's. If it's a bit too low the engine internals can make angry noises. Maybe set it to 11-1200 rpms? Maybe it needs a synchro or new plugs etc?

(y)
 

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Low miles but it is possible the timing chain tensioner failed. As stated a low rpm will make the clutch basket sound very angry but not 'sharp' metallic like.
 

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I had the dreaded CCT rattle at 35k mls, it makes a continuous rattle/rustling noise, not sharp metallic banging sounds (unless maybe a chain slider guide has broken?).

My ageing FI Bird can make sharp metalic/banging noses (like the gearbox is banging around - but it's in neutral) after it comes off fast idle and drops to a still cold low idle rpm, which I control by holding the throttle as I'm on the BB and ready to ride away - it sounds smoother after riding as the engine is then fully hot and will idle at 1200rpms, but just after warm up fast idle shuts down it isn't fully up to temp and can bang about alarmingly. My BB is of course ancient compared to that young 24k miles version (I have 71k miles)....... maybe I need to do a synchro!...... :D.

Balancing the throttle body bleed system (synchro) on the FI models makes them idle and run really smooth (like a turbine), so too will a carby synchro on the 97 (maybe the carbs also need a flush clean and reset float levels and adjust mixtures and blow jets clean etc)....... I have read about guys adjusting the balance shafts (?), but I don't know anything about that (yet). Perhaps a couple of tanks of a carby/FI cleaner treatment might help?

Best not to walk away from an idling bike anyway as the idle can settle and become lumpy - also oil pressure is lower at idle rpm. I start mine and ride off shortly after fast idle settles (FI model) - taking it easy in traffic until the oil comes up to temp.

(y)
 

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Dave
Now that you mention it my 2k BB can do the same when it drops into that same off wax valve idle zone. It'll stumble a bit down there. But like you I typically don't let it stay there long. The newer ECU I've had to switch too doesn't seem to be a prone to that same thing.
Pearl if you could get a sound track or vid up it'll help.
 

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Cheers Bees,

I just played a video from a 2012 thread and that was an education!

It made a horrible loud rattling/clacking noise that I've never heard before........ so I figure that's what a busted CCT or CC guide sounds like. When my CC wore out I acted as soon as I heard the prominent rustling noise so it didn't get to the stage where anything broke or made horrible metalic ratcheting noises. I suspect now that the OP has a well and truly buggered CC and broken tensioner.

My 05BB oem CC lasted to 114k kms (71k mls) but that is probably as good as they go as I used but didn't abuse mine.

(y)
 

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Because it’s so easy to do I change my CCT every 20K miles. Always OEM and currently on my 4th.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tonight I cranked my bird up to head home and had a neutral to leave it idling. I walked away from the bike and left it idling for 2 3 minutes as it was cold outside. All of a sudden I started to hear a metal on metal noise coming from it. It has 24,700 miles. When I pull in the clutch the noise sounds exactly the same, no change. I wrote it home two and a half miles and it performed great I can still hear the metal or metal noise throughout the ride but could not tell anything different in performance. I'm thinking transmission or something with the clutch but not sure. Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thank you.
New video by Aaron George
 

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I see pulling in the clutch lever makes no difference, so I will say this is probably not a clutch problem. 2 culprits spring to mind:
1. Loose stator screws.
2. As already mentioned above, cam chain tensioner (CCT) tension spring or guide broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Cheers Bees,

I just played a video from a 2012 thread and that was an education!

It made a horrible loud rattling/clacking noise that I've never heard before........ so I figure that's what a busted CCT or CC guide sounds like. When my CC wore out I acted as soon as I heard the prominent rustling noise so it didn't get to the stage where anything broke or made horrible metalic ratcheting noises. I suspect now that the OP has a well and truly buggered CC and broken tensioner.

My 05BB oem CC lasted to 114k kms (71k mls) but that is probably as good as they go as I used but didn't abuse mine.

(y)
Thanks!

Do you have a link to that video?

Also I just posted 2 videos of the sound Pearl is making.

Cheers!
 

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I think this is it
Reading through that thread it seem it was the CCT based on this clip
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think this is it
Reading through that thread it seem it was the CCT based on this clip
That's exactly like mine sounds. Was he just adjusting it with a tiny screw driver?

I ordered a new but it won't arrive till Wednesday 😔. Only $44w/tax!
 

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Your new one will come with a special key to retract the plunger in order to install it. It is not adjustable. The old screwdriver in the keyhole trick will temporarily change the noise though.
 

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Just taking a side step from all the other answers, I note the bike is a '97.
Is the exhaust original? If it is the headers are ferrous steel and can rot internally or a weld breaks. This leads to an internal dividing plate to break off/ rattle about inside. Always worth checking out with a 'listening stick', ears and hot exhausts do not mix .....
 

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Wow
Never heard one male that much of a racket! That's damn scary to be honest
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Your new one will come with a special key to retract the plunger in order to install it. It is not adjustable. The old screwdriver in the keyhole trick will temporarily change the noise though.
10-4. He was just temporarily adding tension.
Just taking a side step from all the other answers, I note the bike is a '97.
Is the exhaust original? If it is the headers are ferrous steel and can rot internally or a weld breaks. This leads to an internal dividing plate to break off/ rattle about inside. Always worth checking out with a 'listening stick', ears and hot exhausts do not mix .....
I'm pretty sure it's the CCT. The vids that were posted earlier sounded exactly like the sound I'm having. I ordered one for $44 coming in next Wednesday. I'll keep y'all posted if it fixes the sound.
Wow
Never heard one male that much of a racket! That's damn scary to be honest
It was in the turn of a switch. like I said it was a cold night I cranked it up left in a neutral to warm up and then all of a sudden noise. It definitely did not wear out it broke.
 

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Ahhh ok
While your waiting try this.

There is a way to retention the CCT. I've done it myself and that CCT is still in there.

So step 1 turn the adjuster out until the unit locks. Remove it and then release it. Now here is the tricky part. If you look you will see a metal lock wire in a groove. Carefully use a small screw driver or pick and work it out of the groove. Note the base plate has 2 wide tabs and 2 narrow tabs. you need to carefully lift the plate up out of the notches. Now be careful the plate is under spring tension. you need to carefully lift the plate and clock it 2 more turns and reset it back into the tab reliefs. If you look at the housing there is a notch as well. This is where the springs hook sets.
Now if the plate got away from you don't panic. (Been here done this) The original setting is 10 turns from the relaxed position. So just reset the spring in the groove and carefully give it 12 turns. If the spring came completely loose then the bottom end sets in a grove across the end of the adjuster post just rest set it and start your 12 turns.
 
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