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Discussion Starter #1
So I noticed this a few weeks back at the end of a hard ride with a bunch of other bikes. Around 8-9k rpm in 3rd gear the clutch was obviously slipping as the revs got way higher but power not being applied. So I have been babying the bike just going back and forth from work as its my daily transportation. But yesterday after getting on the highway I pegged it a bit while cruising in 6th and noticed the slip happening. Im running Mobil 1 Racing 4T full synthetic 10w-40, not my first choice but I had to buy locally and its what they had.
I haven't changed the oil since rebuilding the petcock ( torn diaphragm) but I also don't detect any gas in there but I could be wrong. 58k miles.... is it time for a clutch rebuild anyway? Any help always appreciated
 

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I'd do a tear down. I've ran Mobil 4T in my bird for quite a few miles and years. You may have washed out the pack when the diaphram went.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sooooo...this will be my first clutch work on any bike. If I replace just the plates what all do I need to order? Im trying to stay OEM if possible.
 

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It's best to order both steel and fibres. You can't go wrong with factory but I'm wondering what is making it slip. I've ran the same oil for better than 80,000 miles with regular changes at 6,000. When I pulled it apart and installed the slipper clutch at I think it was 160,000 or so everything measured good and so it all went back in. I'm at 202,000 miles with that same clutch still in there as well as running the slipper and it's still working great. So now I'm wondering if maybe something isn't releasing completely.
Have you checked the pushrod to make sure it's clean and straight
When was the last time the master and slave were pulled down and checked to make sure they were clean. Hydraulic systems are known to absorb moisture and develop a grey gunk that raises havoc.
 
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58k miles...... that's only 92,000kms........ the crutch in my 05BB is still good at 129,000kms, but it hasn't had any abuse or fuel spills to deal with. I don't know what the Mobil oil is that you are using - if it is car oil, then it is to blame - motorcycle oils have a different formulation to prevent clutch slip. I guess 58k miles is getting on a bit so a refresh isn't a bad idea...... and I might get a fright if I look at mine :LOL:.

Check your clutch basket springs haven't come loose or broken.

(y)PS.. just saw Bees post...... what he said! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good advice. I recently flushed the hydraulics on the other side and was planning to do so on the clutch side this weekend. Is checking and cleaning the pushrod a big job?
 

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No you'll have access to it when you pull the cover to work on the clutch slave.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I was kind of on a time crunch as I had to be at work this afternoon but I changed the oil and filter and flushed the clutch hydraulics. The master cylinder was indeed 1/4 way full of brown/Grey gunk and I cleaned it all out and put fresh fluid in and bleeded the lines no problem. I was apprehensive about opening up the slave because I didn't know what i was getting into and didn't want to damage any of the rubber in there as I don't have a rebuild kit on hand. BUT, the clutch slippage is mostly gone now, I'd definitely say I'm 80% that of normal operation. I'm sure the slave has the same gunk in it right? And is probably affecting performance. So I think I'll buy the rebuild kit for it before I open it up to clean. If i want to remove the pushrod which bolts do I take out? It's not necessary to remove all 3 correct?
 

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Yep if you had it in the master your pretty much guarenteed to have it in the slave.
Pulling the pushrod is easier if you pull the counter sprocket cover. That way you can clean out the crud built up in there too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah good to know. I'll get on it in the morning, no work tomorrow so I can relax a bit instead of stressing about being stuck having done something I dunno how to undo. Will keep yall posted thanks for the tips
 

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The compensation port in the slave master may be gunked up not allowing fluid flow. Clean and/or rebuild the master should be the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So yesterday I popped the front sprocket cover off and cleaned real good in there and took out pushrod and polished it up. Got it all back together....bike ran great. This morning I'm washing the bike and notice this
130448

on top of my kickstand bolts. Just chillin...not attatched to anything. What is this? Part of bike or road trash I somehow picked up last night? Weird
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Haha. Love this group. I never had a tool kit. And the battery never had a strap before.....BUT IT DOES NOW! thanks guys
 

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:D :D :D :D
 

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G'day BoDylan,

Just spotted the pic above with lo-beam turned on........

That lower reflector position is high beam in a stock BB headlight...... the low-beam is the top reflector.

You may be blinding oncoming traffic using the hi-beam position as your lo-beam running lamp....... it looks great but the standard reflectors are angled for low beam on top and high beam at the bottom, so you'll need to swap the connectors to get it back to correct beam position.

(y)
 
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