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Good day to you all

I have this issue with my 2007 CBR1000 RR. Cold(or under 50deg C) it starts perfect. After a drive or even just idleling until it reaches a temp above 50deg C, it doesn't want to start. Apparently this is a common issue on these bikes. Could anyone give me advice or rather a clear solution to solve this problem, as it is very frustrating.

Kind Regards
 

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Hi Woken,

While there are some members in this forum who may be able to help you with your CBR1000 RR query, the forum is actually for the CBR1100xx Super Blackbird. So you may find a greater depth of knowledge by approaching a CBR1000RR focused forum as well.

Still, good luck in finding help and I'm sure someone here with CBR1000RR experience will pitch in nevertheless.

All the best Mallow1.
 

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Good day to you all

I have this issue with my 2007 CBR1000 RR. Cold(or under 50deg C) it starts perfect. After a drive or even just idleling until it reaches a temp above 50deg C, it doesn't want to start. Apparently this is a common issue on these bikes. Could anyone give me advice or rather a clear solution to solve this problem, as it is very frustrating.

Kind Regards
As Mallow states this is not a RR board but I'll give a hand.
For beginners when you say won't start, is it cranking but not firing?
 

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I did have a little read on the 1000s site for you, apparently some are saying it could be the kill switch, and they thought they mite have fixed it by turning the bike off with the kill switch, instead of the key, and there bike was restarting, if your kill switch is having a weird effect on starting it sounds like the kill switch mite need a good clean out with switch cleaner.

The other thing is how is your battery? Get a volt meter on it, if the battery is faulty then when your bike gets hot it mite fail until cold again.
I would also spray your ignition barrel as well.

I've had a bike in the past that played up when it was getting hot because the stator wires outer had split, very very slightly and so when it got hot the expansion in the case touched the wire inside causing all sorts of things.

And some one on the 1000s forum also said about vacuum lines over stretched when lifting the front of the tank up, and when he put the tank back down he punched a vacuum line.
You could also lift your petrol cap up open for 5 seconds see if that helps before starting.

Also, it mite be your temp sensor for the ecu if you can check it out, I once had a k1100lt and after jet washing it one day it kept cutting out on and off when it got warm, i traced it down eventually to the temp sensor for the ecu and it fixed it.

And finally a guy on youtubes cbr1000rr was running ruff when it got hot, he had it fixed and he said the mechanic said the wrong air filter had been fitted causing the bike to run weird and make it want to use the auto choke which inturn kept flooding his engine when hot, it had been doing it for some time, and made his injectors clog a bit which had to be cleaned.

Good luck.
 

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Very good advice from bikerian...... I was just about to add that poor starting is not a common problem with any Honda, but it could become an issue on any 15+year old bike due to environmental or service related issues - which all vary depending on how well the owner/previous owner/mechanics have looked after the machine. But this won't solve the issue........ bikerian has raised the most likely issues...... at 15yrs some switches dry out or have road grime in the way of good electrical contact ...... hell, even our mighty Blackbirds will do the most weird things if a starter button contact or indicator switch contact gets too dirty to work like it did when new.

So out with the contact cleaner and spray all switches and see of the issue goes away. That battery comment may well be the issue...... Do a 'cold cranking' load test with a voltmeter (but remember to leave the bike off all chargers, and don't ride it, for 12hrs)...... Park it then next day hook a voltmeter to the battery and note the volts with key on but no start, should read about 12.3v, then "cold cranking" before it fires the engine, should show above 9.5v for a healthy battery, and when it fires into life you should see eerrrm, I think you might have the old style R/R like us so, 13.2v at idle rising to 14.5 or so above idle (say 1500-2000rpm) which indicates the charging system is working........ The suspicion is that the stator might be failing slowly and only keeping the battery afloat while riding, but not charging it fully so a restart is not possible until the battery has a rest. The R/R may be damaged if you are getting above 15v while revving above idle = overcharging the battery.

With careful maintenance and garage parking there is likely no damage or failed hoses under the tank, but it's still worth checking for cracks and leaks..... hoses and clamps and nuts.... the lot..... some may have vibrated loose over 15yrs, but if it was running smoothly until stopping for a break, then maybe not an issue for your CBR1000.

Fuel pump priming sound ok? Fuel filter blocked? I changed mine at 16yrs and 81k miles and it was dark but looked ok when I cut it open...... still, a new filter at that age and mileage was a good thing to do even though we have clean fuel here in Aus. I don't use ethanol fuels as we have plenty of normal ULP supplies at servo's, but if you have been using E10, maybe the pump or the FPR or other parts have suffered from moisture contamination caused by E10 fuel?

Your Honda should leap into life even at 15yo, hot or cold, it will have a fast idle system (maybe that is gunked up and not working properly?)....... my 05 Blackbird does...... so get your head under that tank and suss the issue like Sherlock Holmes would...... elementary my dear fellow........

Download a workshop manual from a CBR1000 forum - they are worth reading through - start with the trouble shooting section.....might put you straight onto the issue (y)

Good Luck.
 

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Aaaah, I remember your model now...... I helped set the adjustable tappets on one....... PITA, needed a special tool to unlock the locking nut and allow a screwdriver down the center to adjust the tappet clearance. Took two sets of hands to hold all the pipes and tubes out of the way, but on the upside, the tappets sit squarely on the valve tips and don't go out of spec for a very long time once set properly........

The airfilter is a small hollow tube style under the seat and sucks a lot of dust from the rear wheel (most modern bikes draw their air from the headlight area which is much cleaner.

The tank on that model has a hinge, so it raises up from the front and a small prop holds it up. They were a very comfortable bike to ride....

Good luck with the hot starting issue..... The CBR1000 I worked on was a mates and he never ever had a hot starting failure...... but he kept the servicing up to date ;).
 
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