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Hi Brian,

Sorry to hear your bird has an injured wing. If minor I'd suggest repair and respray may be best option.

If replacement truly needed use the search function will throw up lots of suggestions for kits/ manufacturers/ suppliers in these forums, esp State side which ought to be suitable for where you are and how deep your pockets are. Also some members carry spares either personally or as bird dedicated suppliers.

I'm on a '96 carbie here in the UK and changed her full clothes when my side panels had been scratched a few times. Kit was from a Hong Kong supplier (Auctmarts) 4-5 years back and have been pleased with fit, durability and paint job. I believe they have a US outlet. Replacing a couple of panels was pretty much the same cost as a full kit. Hence I went full kit.

What follows are points to bear in mind based on my experiences. So I hope they are helpfull if you are inexperienced and you bear with me if you know all this already (it may just help others reading this).

What I would say is beware firms that say "fits all years". Technically not so. There are differences and for a side panel you'll only notice it in the fit around the Y shaped insert around the radiator at the front. Carbies have a slightly differently shaped Y insert which will leave a bit of a gap with an FI side panel and vice versa. Best fit a new panel on a hot day so plastic is more flexible if fitting is "tight" or needs a little encouragement. A warmed up panel is more flexible and less prone to crack. Also once on for a while and ridden, the heat of the bike helps relax a new panel into place. Beware of running it without heat shielding as it's all too easy to bubble a new paint job or melt something you oughtn't. If you buy a full kit not just side panel note… mirror cowls and grab rail usually not part of the kit. "Full kit" not only misses these but also may miss the black infill panels (esp little square one for under the nose), and Y shaped front radiator insert. Some can provide plastic tank covers. I only mention that re colour matching the whole set. Tank cover will at least match where as your original metal tank, grab rail and mirror cowls "may" still need colour matching to a new supposedly "full kit". Granted, a lot of inserts etc can be kept from your old kit but new alongside old does stand out. I do notice however, my new inserts are a touch more brittle than the old inserts which are much more flexible in my case.

Your 03 is an FI and most of the kits seem to be FI based from what I've seen (FYI there's another difference in the nose cone re 2 v 4 tabs but this isn't applicable to you).

So FI or carbie based is less likely to be an issue for you as majority tend to be FI based but worth checking never the less. Ideally I'd still suggest an OEM panel off fleabay and repair/ respray as necessary. If a panel is missing a tab you can create one from powder and glue (kits available or some use baking soda and crazy glue), using old panel as template (mold) and epoxy the new tab in place. From memory I don't think there are any tabs on your panel but worth thinking about if you decide to change the whole set of clothes. I had to create a few tabs when I did.

Anyway, if you go aftermarket other considerations are…
1. Have you kept all your original furniture (bolts, clips, washers etc) or does it say it comes with all you need. Be advised, if the latter they tend to be poor quality (rust quickly or not matching OEM style etc). Be prepared to shell out separately for any missing bits or a decent replacement set (again search the forum for good US suppliers). Use the parts catalogue (see redources sectiin of the forum). The diagrams will help visualise all the extra bits and bobs plus supply part munbers if you purchase OEM.

Also does the panel come pre drilled? If not yet it's painted you may wish to protect the paint job when drilling and paint the newly exposed base plastic after drilling.

Oh, that reminds me… colour of base plastic. My set is white, OEM is black. So what? Well my paint job is black. Originally minor scratches didn't show up much (black plastic show thru black scratched paint job… difficult to spot). Now they do (white base thru black scatched paint). It's not earth shattering, just something I didn't think about at the time.

2. Insulation/ heat shield included with the panel or not? Again, be prepared to buy separately (use your old panel to create templates), watch out re clearances, thermal properties (heat ratings) and durability of adhesive.

Same re edging foam if damaged on your inserts albeit they're upper fairing so you're prob okay (fyi I use door draft excluder...works like a charm if high density).

If full kit, look inside your tail cowl (various foam blocks in rear of tail) several rubber blocks (one each side) at the front, one large rubber block between subframe centre stand handle and cowl plus rubber trim around rear light assembly. All need transfering from old kit to new one as won't be supplied.

3. Also my bird has additional OEM sound dampner inserts (additional rubber backed foam mats which dangle from the main side fairing bolt) which are very hard to find replacements for. I don't think they're included on US spec bikes. I only mention just so you/ others reading this become aware of yet another clothing difference between different spec Birds.

4. Decals… again be prepared to purchase separately if not included or included but a poor match to OEM. Search in the forums throws up great options.

5. Colour match. New aftermarket can come unpainted or painted (rough match) or painted true OEM coulour coded matched. The latter is best but be aware your original panels may have faded/ weathered over the 20 years. Sometimes unpainted panel, third party decals and a decent local paint shop great at colour matching to 20 year old paint overall may be a good choice. Truly depends upon your level of perfection sought and depth of pocket re being able to achieve it.

6. If your side panel needs replacing, does your mirror cowl too? If so fyi CBRPaul makes them and Jaws too supplies aftermarket. Mirror cowls tend not to be included in kits. Go figure!

7. Your picture shows a bike without crash shrooms/ bungs. They do save "minor" damage from stationary drops or slow speed minor falls but can transfer forces to frame or engine mounts which may cause greater damage in more serious slides. So some hate them some love them. Personally I've added some (when I changed clothes) which have a dog leg two-stage set up (which helps negate the bigger engine mount/ frame downside) while providing the slow speed minor scrapes protection. They've saved my new panels (and panniers) twice and my ankle (trapped under bike during slide) once from a much greater mashing than it actually took.

8. Security: great time to etch all new panels with secuirty codes, smart water etc if theft us a concern in your area. NYC for ecample seems to be having a Bird theft spree at the moment. Fyi I had a previous bike stolen. The police found it in bits in a house a month later. They thought that only the frame and engine could be i.d.'d as mine and crooks claimed theyd bought them separately and likewise all the bits. Police thought they could only charge them with reveiving stolen goods (frame & engine). However all my bits were security marked. Thieves went down for the full "grand theft auto" charge instead. Way more time doing bird!

So plenty to think about between repair, fleabay second hand and full aftermarket.

Good luck and do feel free to post up before and after pics!

Regards Mallow1
 

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Care with red in decals there's three different reds out there:
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Example of a supplier others have recommended who matches you your colour code:

 

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Problem is those are for everyone but North America
Bee,

A touch confused by your comment.

This decal company quotes in US$ and seems to show delivery to US:
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Or are you saying the colour chart above itself isn't US applicable in which case surely the OEM colour codes still prevails do they not? So long as that on Brian's subframe matches what is offered… job done, n'est pas?
 

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Mallow
Problem is that they use Superblack bird in the wording and don't list titanium in the color scheme available. The factory decals I have on mine have 3 different colors as well as the chrome with a digitized fade. The red in the lettering is actually metallic.
 

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absfairings.com
They're in Fla. Best kits I've seen.
Hey Partsguy,
I remember looking at these a few years ago and their website was vague about where the fairings were made. I now see that they say made in China.
I was suspicious because their stock pics are identical to the ones on the China website. However, the markup is probably worth it in case of returns.
I ended up repairing instead of replacing anyhow.
 

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I’ll agree that a repair and re-spray is probably the best direction but if you want aftermarket, I know several people that have been pleased with the service from these guys. I’m sure it’s still Chinese-made but if you “call” their US number and explain your need(s), they seem to be very accommodating with any custom order you require. They do a good job with color-matching as well. Also, I believe they offer the US decals omitting “superblackbird” and “LBS” vs “CBS” brake logo’s as well, etc etc.

 

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Mallow
Problem is that they use Superblack bird in the wording and don't list titanium in the color scheme available. The factory decals I have on mine have 3 different colors as well as the chrome with a digitized fade. The red in the lettering is actually metallic.
If they don't do 100% OEM equivalent then it's important we highlight this. I haven't used them so can't vouch for it. I was just showing them as an example of what's out there. Have you used them? Also, local market issues such as none use of "Super Blackbird" re US market isn't nec known globally. These nuiances are important if you wish to be OEM correct.

FYI They do list metallic Titanium and the picture show 3 colours (black, titanium, red) beyond chrome (hmmm possibly light grey) with a degree of fade though it is hard to tell if the red is metallic or not. The titanium is listed as metallic YR183

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Brian,

Sorry to hear your bird has an injured wing. If minor I'd suggest repair and respray may be best option.

If replacement truly needed use the search function will throw up lots of suggestions for kits/ manufacturers/ suppliers in these forums, esp State side which ought to be suitable for where you are and how deep your pockets are. Also some members carry spares either personally or as bird dedicated suppliers.

I'm on a '96 carbie here in the UK and changed her full clothes when my side panels had been scratched a few times. Kit was from a Hong Kong supplier (Auctmarts) 4-5 years back and have been pleased with fit, durability and paint job. I believe they have a US outlet. Replacing a couple of panels was pretty much the same cost as a full kit. Hence I went full kit.

What follows are points to bear in mind based on my experiences. So I hope they are helpfull if you are inexperienced and you bear with me if you know all this already (it may just help others reading this).

What I would say is beware firms that say "fits all years". Technically not so. There are differences and for a side panel you'll only notice it in the fit around the Y shaped insert around the radiator at the front. Carbies have a slightly differently shaped Y insert which will leave a bit of a gap with an FI side panel and vice versa. Best fit a new panel on a hot day so plastic is more flexible if fitting is "tight" or needs a little encouragement. A warmed up panel is more flexible and less prone to crack. Also once on for a while and ridden, the heat of the bike helps relax a new panel into place. Beware of running it without heat shielding as it's all too easy to bubble a new paint job or melt something you oughtn't. If you buy a full kit not just side panel note… mirror cowls and grab rail usually not part of the kit. "Full kit" not only misses these but also may miss the black infill panels (esp little square one for under the nose), and Y shaped front radiator insert. Some can provide plastic tank covers. I only mention that re colour matching the whole set. Tank cover will at least match where as your original metal tank, grab rail and mirror cowls "may" still need colour matching to a new supposedly "full kit". Granted, a lot of inserts etc can be kept from your old kit but new alongside old does stand out. I do notice however, my new inserts are a touch more brittle than the old inserts which are much more flexible in my case.

Your 03 is an FI and most of the kits seem to be FI based from what I've seen (FYI there's another difference in the nose cone re 2 v 4 tabs but this isn't applicable to you).

So FI or carbie based is less likely to be an issue for you as majority tend to be FI based but worth checking never the less. Ideally I'd still suggest an OEM panel off fleabay and repair/ respray as necessary. If a panel is missing a tab you can create one from powder and glue (kits available or some use baking soda and crazy glue), using old panel as template (mold) and epoxy the new tab in place. From memory I don't think there are any tabs on your panel but worth thinking about if you decide to change the whole set of clothes. I had to create a few tabs when I did.

Anyway, if you go aftermarket other considerations are…
1. Have you kept all your original furniture (bolts, clips, washers etc) or does it say it comes with all you need. Be advised, if the latter they tend to be poor quality (rust quickly or not matching OEM style etc). Be prepared to shell out separately for any missing bits or a decent replacement set (again search the forum for good US suppliers). Use the parts catalogue (see redources sectiin of the forum). The diagrams will help visualise all the extra bits and bobs plus supply part munbers if you purchase OEM.

Also does the panel come pre drilled? If not yet it's painted you may wish to protect the paint job when drilling and paint the newly exposed base plastic after drilling.

Oh, that reminds me… colour of base plastic. My set is white, OEM is black. So what? Well my paint job is black. Originally minor scratches didn't show up much (black plastic show thru black scratched paint job… difficult to spot). Now they do (white base thru black scatched paint). It's not earth shattering, just something I didn't think about at the time.

2. Insulation/ heat shield included with the panel or not? Again, be prepared to buy separately (use your old panel to create templates), watch out re clearances, thermal properties (heat ratings) and durability of adhesive.

Same re edging foam if damaged on your inserts albeit they're upper fairing so you're prob okay (fyi I use door draft excluder...works like a charm if high density).

If full kit, look inside your tail cowl (various foam blocks in rear of tail) several rubber blocks (one each side) at the front, one large rubber block between subframe centre stand handle and cowl plus rubber trim around rear light assembly. All need transfering from old kit to new one as won't be supplied.

3. Also my bird has additional OEM sound dampner inserts (additional rubber backed foam mats which dangle from the main side fairing bolt) which are very hard to find replacements for. I don't think they're included on US spec bikes. I only mention just so you/ others reading this become aware of yet another clothing difference between different spec Birds.

4. Decals… again be prepared to purchase separately if not included or included but a poor match to OEM. Search in the forums throws up great options.

5. Colour match. New aftermarket can come unpainted or painted (rough match) or painted true OEM coulour coded matched. The latter is best but be aware your original panels may have faded/ weathered over the 20 years. Sometimes unpainted panel, third party decals and a decent local paint shop great at colour matching to 20 year old paint overall may be a good choice. Truly depends upon your level of perfection sought and depth of pocket re being able to achieve it.

6. If your side panel needs replacing, does your mirror cowl too? If so fyi CBRPaul makes them and Jaws too supplies aftermarket. Mirror cowls tend not to be included in kits. Go figure!

7. Your picture shows a bike without crash shrooms/ bungs. They do save "minor" damage from stationary drops or slow speed minor falls but can transfer forces to frame or engine mounts which may cause greater damage in more serious slides. So some hate them some love them. Personally I've added some (when I changed clothes) which have a dog leg two-stage set up (which helps negate the bigger engine mount/ frame downside) while providing the slow speed minor scrapes protection. They've saved my new panels (and panniers) twice and my ankle (trapped under bike during slide) once from a much greater mashing than it actually took.

8. Security: great time to etch all new panels with secuirty codes, smart water etc if theft us a concern in your area. NYC for ecample seems to be having a Bird theft spree at the moment. Fyi I had a previous bike stolen. The police found it in bits in a house a month later. They thought that only the frame and engine could be i.d.'d as mine and crooks claimed theyd bought them separately and likewise all the bits. Police thought they could only charge them with reveiving stolen goods (frame & engine). However all my bits were security marked. Thieves went down for the full "grand theft auto" charge instead. Way more time doing bird!

So plenty to think about between repair, fleabay second hand and full aftermarket.

Good luck and do feel free to post up before and after pics!

Regards Mallow1
Thank you so very much for the full detailed recommendation
, greatly appreciated. Cheers !
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After hours reading all the posts, I have a question. What I'm looking for are an unpainted quality faring kit. I plan on taking my bird to a friend of mine's body shop to have the kit color matched to the tank. Am concerned with not purchasing a quality kit. Any recomendations?
 

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You want the whole kit or just the part that is damaged?

For a damaged part, I would go used as you will be painting anyway.
Remember, the whole kits advertised do not include mirror housings.
 

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These are the guys I used.

The best aftermarket fairing kits | Search results for: 'Cbr1100xx'

Based in Dallas TX. However I used their Hong Kong firm as cheaper re Europe. At the time they had deals listed on eBay.com and eBay.co.uk so I blended the two together and negotiated the best amalgamated package.
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Kit came with everything: all body panels, infill panels, bolts, heat shield, windscreen, tank cover, tank pad, decals and paint to my spec… no mirror cowls or grabrail.

Pic of it all fitted:
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Fit was excellent. Bolts poor (generic, rusted quickly… didn't use them).

Bought my own heat shielding and cut to size. Theirs may have been adequate but wasn't enough to match original coverage. To see mine fitted:

I have non-OEM down pipes/ 4 into 2 which protrude a bit more than OEM so I did have to trim the RHS lower fairing a little bit to prevent the exhaust touching it (and melting it… very minor and wholly down to my set up).

Talk to them as they were excellent at "doing a deal". I'm sure they'll quote for an unpainted kit. They have a WhatsApp contact which makes chatting easy. Care needed to keep exact record of what you've negotiated and ordered at what price.

FYI I got a tank cover and solo seat cowl included as freebies (over enthusiastic saleman). They did try to retract that when the boss found out but I held them too it (except the seat cowl as I didn't actually want one) so they did honour the deal to my satisfaction. It meant I could buy without worrying re colour matching to my tank. Pic of tank cover in situ. Fyi I used a Givi luggage ring around my gas filler to centre and hold the cover in place (much better than simply slipping it on and using its ftagile rear bolt lugs).
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Their kit is FI based. I had to mod a tab or two for my carbie (in the nose). You're FI so you'll be fine. For carbie owners, here's the difference in the Y insert (not a real problem, carbie on right if I recall correctly):
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These are the guys I used.

The best aftermarket fairing kits | Search results for: 'Cbr1100xx'

Based in Dallas TX. However I used their Hong Kong firm as cheaper re Europe. At the time they had deals listed on eBay.com and eBay.co.uk so I blended the two together and negotiated the best amalgamated package.
View attachment 134674
Kit came with everything: all body panels, infill panels, bolts, heat shield, windscreen, tank cover, tank pad, decals and paint to my spec… no mirror cowls or grabrail.

Pic of it all fitted:
View attachment 134670
Fit was excellent. Bolts poor (generic, rusted quickly… didn't use them).

Bought my own heat shielding and cut to size. Theirs may have been adequate but wasn't enough to match original coverage. To see mine fitted:

I have non-OEM down pipes/ 4 into 2 which protrude a bit more than OEM so I did have to trim the RHS lower fairing a little bit to prevent the exhaust touching it (and melting it… very minor and wholly down to my set up).

Talk to them as they were excellent at "doing a deal". I'm sure they'll quote for an unpainted kit. They have a WhatsApp contact which makes chatting easy. Care needed to keep exact record of what you've negotiated and ordered at what price.

FYI I got a tank cover and solo seat cowl included as freebies (over enthusiastic saleman). They did try to retract that when the boss found out but I held them too it (except the seat cowl as I didn't actually want one) so they did honour the deal to my satisfaction. It meant I could buy without worrying re colour matching to my tank. Pic of tank cover in situ. Fyi I used a Givi luggage ring around my gas filler to centre and hold the cover in place (much better than simply slipping it on and using its ftagile rear bolt lugs).
View attachment 134671
Their kit is FI based. I had to mod a tab or two for my carbie (in the nose). You're FI so you'll be fine. For carbie owners, here's the difference in the Y insert (not a real problem, carbie on left if I recall correctly):
View attachment 134673
Appreciate the time you took to help me out. Your Bird looks GREAT ! Thank you, from Atlanta Georgia ! Brian
 

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You're very welcome Brian. 4 years on and for me my kit is all still great.

I would still say OEM is better (slightly lighter and more flexible plus durable). Paint job from Auctmarts has been excellent. Also all my decals are "covert" so they are there but under a smoked top coat lacquer.

I do hope you get a few more recommendations for a few more supplier so you have plenty of choice.

Good luck. Have fun and hope to see phot of your end result.

Rgds M1
 

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I've used Auctmarts twice before on a (GSXR 600rr and 750rr) and another company on a (CBR600rr). Auctmart's quality were the best, but nowhere close to OEM. The plastic is thinner and more brittle. All the decals were placed on the fairings and a thin layer of clear coat sprayed over the paint. The paint looked good, but on all of the fairing sets, the paint was thin, brittle, and chipped easily. Fitment was off on usually parts around the front and sides. Zip ties were used in a few areas. Screws and bolts were cheap and tabs broke off easy on some parts. Overall, if you're careful with them and manage to get them fitted together right, it will look pretty good. I believe all the different fairings company are out of china even though some say US based. I'd go with Auctmarts
 

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Well I again am so very grateful for all the information. I ended up purchasing a complete unpainted/primed fairing kit form Monster Fairings. I hope I'm not disappointed in the quality where as I have not received it yet. I am looking for a complete fairing fastener kit. All recommendations would be appreciated. I can't wait to post the final results after the bird are repainted and back to her beauty. Cheers from Atlanta, Georgia USA.
 

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I bought a Chinese unpainted fairing kit. I new I would have to prep the surface but also had to cut off and flatten the "seams" from the blow mold process. The fit/finish of the kit was good, but I made the mistake of flattening back the colour and after the clear coat was applied, what should have been bright red came out a bit orange.
I ran it a couple of years but the panels are off again to be painted bright red.
 
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