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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, after many days scouring this world renowned forum, I am at my wits end with trying to fix this. This will be long and therapeutic for me..

I'll try keep succinct, and I apologise in advance for the length & any idiotic steps I've overlooked.

After a winters storage, I was just prepping her for her MOT, all fine. Morning of MOT. SHAZAM! Fuel Gauge goes off the charts. Followed by the temp. (i turned off asap). Restarting Then speedo, tach, neutral light, side and oil pressure lights.

It runs perfectly with dash backlit, and headlights/indicators working incl. corresponding dash lights.

"No blooddy worries I say- just corrosion on the PCB", takes it to MOT, FAILS because of blown 10A fuse and rear brake switch. Easy PASS, but still no speedo etc. (Bizarre that it can PASS MOT without it).

Mechanic could shed no light. Mention electrical to him and it was like :huh:

So I inspect the PCB of the gauges, basically it appears to have shorted on the black/brown wire of the GREY 10 pin connector, busting a hole in the tracking, but this is not the first time!

The previous owner obviously had this prob, and took the lcd clock wire from the GREY 10 pin, and soldered it to a black/brown for the speedo etc.

This dodgy mofo the guy left me with is clearly the source of my woes.

So I:
-Retrace the PCB with silver conductive paint and clean it.
-Change 2x10A Fuses: CLOCK, and INDICATORS etc.
-Connect it all back up and VOILA, all works minus the fuel gauge which i assume is fried.

Put fairing back on

Result
All dash lights slowly flicker and fade off.

So I:
-Replace battery and reg/rec
-Replace entire wiring loom

Result
Still no joy with affected BLACK/BROWN dash circuit.


NOW the starter button doesnt work. Not even that illusive "CLICK" is heard. (Bear in mind this worked on my previous wiring loom) As if the killswitch is on (dont worry its not haha)

So I:

-Visually Inspect the Ignition coil connections, one was a little loose so nudged it back in.
-Visually Inspect starter switch on right handlebar assembly, all perfezione.
-Visually Inspect starter solenoid, is a little corroded but previously worked on old wiring loom

Result
No joy


My final hope is lays here: the previous owner hooked up 2 tiny leds in the nose cone from the headlight, and I've left them unplugged when replacing the loom, Could this affect the starter in anyway?

Perhaps I forgot to plug something back in properly when replacing the whole loom. Though after initial observations everything is done.


By the way I am replacing the clocks/gauges when I can frikkin find a set!

Ive seen this wacky blue dialled set on ebay floating about but they clearly dont work! The only ones in the UK!

Thanks for giving this time to read, :clap:

I'm still a complete mechanical tit compared to some of you guys, only had this carbed babe for a couple years, and I'm just shy of Marquez's age!

Oh and please request any pics i've taken plenty but im not sure which would be helpful to you, so I'll upload the ones you need.


Cheers All :nworthy:

ThunderChild
 

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Yech. Sorry for all your troubles.
You didn't mention whether you checked the main fuse and it's terminals or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man, sorry i did forget to mention that, I've did check and have replaced all fuses.

Now for the terminals.

I just split the starter solenoid wire from the "fully working condition" loom i picked up on the Bay.

What do you make of this? IMG_1507.JPG.jpeg
:idunno:


Easily fixable? (reparing that part of the harness with my old one)

Thanks
:nworthy:


Thunderchild



 

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Thanks man, sorry i did forget to mention that, I've did check and have replaced all fuses.

Now for the terminals.

I just split the starter solenoid wire from the "fully working condition" loom i picked up on the Bay.

What do you make of this? View attachment 48054
:idunno:


Easily fixable? (reparing that part of the harness with my old one)

Thanks
:nworthy:


Thunderchild



Did you put that black wire in there? It doesn't match up with the schematic.
Do you have 12V on the yellow one when you thumb the start button?
 

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Looks like someone tried to repair the connector with a new wire.

had some connectors on mine that the wire was melted in the connector caused by poor connection of pin and socket.
Didn't have the proper connector so I just hard wired around the connection.

sort of like the famous loom fix.

Stex
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes Shewie I was hoping you would say that! Checked the schematic and you are right, random black wire.. but the R/Yllow wire does match up.

So i went out a got a few blade connectors, stripped the end of the black wire, connected it to the R/Yl and insulated the hell out of it.

Result:
Starter comes on yahoo!!! Just a'pluggin in the fuel tank and will let you know if my clocks/tach works.

Thank you :nworthy:

ThunderChild
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stex & Shewie.. the saga continues! Well here I am happy as Larry, went back in the garage to start it and nothing again.

Looking at that photo how would you join the two wires? Solder them both? (the black and Red/Yellow) Ive just used a flat spade connector, which obviously cant handle it.


Thank Guys

:nworthy:
ThunderChild
 

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Yes Shewie I was hoping you would say that! Checked the schematic and you are right, random black wire.. but the R/Yllow wire does match up.

So i went out a got a few blade connectors, stripped the end of the black wire, connected it to the R/Yl and insulated the hell out of it.

Result:
Starter comes on yahoo!!! Just a'pluggin in the fuel tank and will let you know if my clocks/tach works.

Thank you :nworthy:

ThunderChild
.

How did U secure the wire on the new spade connector,,,crimp it with the proper crimping tool and not pliers?
Was the wire clean for proper crimp connection to the spade connector?

U can buy spade connectors for heavier gauge wires, that way U can twist both clean wires together and insert in new connector.
Solder the wires together then insert would be best before crimping, but soldering to the spade itself is even better..

What about the connector it plugs into. How does the connector look?

If it worked before the way U had it, then an hour later not working,,,,, something does not seem right.

Stex?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah Stex i invested in a beastly crimping tool box with a variety of connectors. The wire was clean and in good condition prior to crimp.

I have different form of connection, like you say, you twist them both, and its sort of like a sleeve.

The spade ive attatched goes into, The Female end *see pic its attatched to red/yellow cable. I personally think i may have just fudged the connection/not insulated well, I may just solder it.

Either that or it is the terminal in the red multi-connector (Main fuse area)

Little late to be fiddling now, but will try the new connector types tomorrow afternoon.

Finger crossed

Cheers,

ThunderChild
 

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I have a little concern over where the other end of that black(sheep) wire goes. Perhaps just eliminate it from the mix (cap it off just in case) for the time being and see what happens. It's possible the PO of that harness had start button problems and installed his own switch somewhere else - maybe the other end is dangling bare somewhere and shorting?

Edit: which end did you strip and join to the yellow? Did you find the other end already?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Right fellas, I have a brief update just back from work and my garage. Got the bike started on the 'replacement' black wire to the red/yellow ( as seen in above pic) in the bottom left of the fuse terminals.

Shewie the black wire is a couple inches in length and plugs via a spade connector into its original red/yll circuit. I did as you said i cannot see any loose danglers on the loom or switches that may affect the startup. But after properly insulating all the starter solenoid properly i think ive got it working a charm.

She is running but not very well. (turned her off after 15 secs) Missfires and odd backfire. Is this possibly from reconnecting the fuel tank a few times? It is the application of throttle/choke she begins gargling and popping. Not too nice to hear :'(

Im guessing it is related to the ignition coils (hence my noob/boob status):

I have the ignition coils all connected well as far as I am aware, if any legend could post the ignition coil order as you sit on the bike it would be amazing! Just to double check with the wiring diagram.

I can't imagine a carb issue, all i did was remove the airbox, dirt may have entered ( i dont see how as i taped her up)




My endless thanks:smilebig:

ThunderChild
 

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Left coil is 1&4, right coil is 2&3. I think. Someone will correct me, and quite quickly no doubt, if I'm wrong.

Did you double check the petcock lines to make sure they are in the right places? More often than not, one ends up where it shouldn't when the tank is removed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Shewie, will check up on what you said in the morn. Its been a lonnng old day.


I just have the niggly problem of getting that damn speedo cluster to work, i used silver conductive paint with polymer binding which sort of does the job, but its uber-intermittent.

The Previous Owner (i know what a b***d) Looks to have had a reg/rec fail on him and give him a V spike and blow the Black/Brown circuit or trace in the dash.

So the crafty fellow simply took the grey wire from the LCD clock i believe, removed it's pin (from the 10-pin connector) and soldered it to the frikkin Black/Brown wire.

With that he then used the wire to bypass the broken trace straight onto the first terminal/contact you can see [the lower clock] and simply screwed it on.

As you can see there is significant corrosion around that area, and the bust hole ( as he left the Bl/Br pin still in the grey multi connector )

Credit it to him its worked the past 2 years without me ever noticing!:clap:

It's just the battery that had fried and killed my r/r must have set things off in the gauges!!

IMG_1408.jpg IMG_1409.jpg IMG_1437.jpg IMG_1438.jpg


My bare electric stuff has worked at getting my rev working now and again but I can see it's intermittent at best. I've only mended areas.

How would you guys repair the traces?

EDIT: I have already repaired the loom with a working one. [be gone with his wicked bypass connection]

Grazie Mille :D

ThunderChild
 

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I personally would be checking ebay and the local breakers to see if i could find a damaged dash (intact circuit film) (speaking of which isn't someone breaking a 97 on here at the moment)

They are starting to show problems in the British Isles as temperatures and the crap you get on the roads there isnt good for keeping a bike corrosion free.... Trust me your not the first with issues with the circuit layer on the back of a 97-99 dash.

Others have managed to repair traces by shunting from one side of the damage to the other....
 

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Left coil is 1&4, right coil is 2&3. I think. Someone will correct me, and quite quickly no doubt, if I'm wrong.
YOUR not wrong shew,think it was you 2yrs ago that put me straight when i wrote down the wrong cylinders when i was interupted by my beautifull blond & buxom next door neighbour, dont know why i lost concentration,HA HA HA HA
 

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YOUR not wrong shew,think it was you 2yrs ago that put me straight when i wrote down the wrong cylinders when i was interupted by my beautifull blond & buxom next door neighbour, dont know why i lost concentration,HA HA HA HA
Thanks for the verification, Kev.

Thunder, I think Ugly has the best advice - replacing the PC is the best fix. You can, with care, scrape the coating off the good sections and solder a jumper wire in to bridge but there may be other areas on the brink of letting go that could show up later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just got back from le job! Going to go inspect coils etc. Thanks Uglystick, looked on eBay for weeks! Finally found someone breaking a freshly destroyed '99 Bird full frontal impact, the 'glass' on the fuel gauge is cracked but im not after the fascia/plastics..

now im fairly certain the analog F.Injection PCB is identical to the PCB on the carbs? Is the only difference the HISS?

Anyway i bought it for £38 which is a damn site cheaper than the fully functioning white set on ebay ( the only ones i can find in the UK) £199 haha. He says it was working prior to impact.

fingers crossed this works!

Oh by the way the "black sheep" wire is poorly connected by who ever did it, so im trying to pull out the relevant pin of the 'red main fuse' and repair the loom using my old harness i took off.

Thanks all for your help, will keep yall updated.


ThunderChild
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry for the lack of updates been waiting on these darn clocks arriving, and I've been getting loaaads of work in.

Tomorrow is finally the day, the clocks arrive. Who knows if they work!? The poor blackbird it came off didnt look too pretty. Still having troubles with the harness of the starter solenoid.

I believe if your info is correct I have the spark coils all plugged in correctly, yet the engine was misfiring like a badman. Maybe it's fuel related.

All the best folks,

and Thanks for your help again,


Thunderchild
 

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YOUR not wrong shew,think it was you 2yrs ago that put me straight when i wrote down the wrong cylinders when i was interupted by my beautifull blond & buxom next door neighbour, dont know why i lost concentration,HA HA HA HA
we have very attractive sheep here too kev:smilebig::smilebig:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
just a quick post my second hand set of clocks work the PCB is like new! well in comparison, not a sign of corrosion/rust... any tips on keeping it this way in the UK?


Also the ignition coils are as follows Screen Shot 2014-05-14 at 01.35.40.png the wires/ to test them is as follows. Screen Shot 2014-05-14 at 01.34.54.png


Such a late night trying to put it back together in time, snapped the tail unit fairing at a main bolt join.... d'oh!



All the Best,

ThunderChild
 
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