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Discussion Starter #41
Have not synced them, ive owned the bike for just weeks at this point. Ridden 4 separate days. Based on my donor bike the glue is oem. Why is this bike so sensitive to air? The vacuum inlets are down on the venturies of each carb after the filter, the air ducts before the filter. The filter would diffuse the air. In confusion i would as "who cares where the air comes from?".

Anyways, beaded up some RTV in the scoops and the ventury boots. Let that dry and wait.

While the bowls were empty of fuel again, I cranked the bike with some throttle, all the slides bump up the same distance as each cylinder sucks in.
 

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Ok here is a thought do you have the other bike still? If so at this point I'd swap the whole bank out.
 

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What cracked the main body or? Can it be swapped out. Just trying to think of a whole system swap the maybe rule out carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Problem is the extra vacuum lines on cali version. At this point I may just take it for a ride with that rag zip tied over it and see what it does after another 20 miles and fresh gas.

Still need to pull the valve covers but got excited hoping it was still something simple.
 

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You can plug them at the carbs or at the T. If it runs right then you know it's the carbs. Then the next thing I'd do is swap just the slides and see what happens.
 

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That is the pair valve system. Those 2 rubber hoses go to 2 castings on the valve cover. They inject clean metered air into the exhaust ports just after the valves. Via a set of reed valves under them. The idea is that injecting 02 into the system will burn off any residual fuel. The small tube at the top of that valve is connected to a vacuum port off of the carbs or one of the synch ports. Can't remember which one. The other end is plugged into the air box I believe down on the right lower corner. It supplies the filtered air that is drawn into the exhaust ports.
 

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The 140-142-142-140 jetting will be factory - to cool the center cylinders - this is common so if you are going up a size on the outer cyls, you may need to go up in the center....... a balance and retune of the mixtures/change to the needles may be needed - I have a K&N filter on my 05 but the PGMFI does everything for me.

I don't know what a 'reductor wheel' is in Australian english but you should make sure the plugs are the correct type as they can mess with the ECU if the resistance is not to specs. Use only NGK and I'm sure Bees can give you the correct p/no if needed.

Best wishes for a speedy return to good running.
 

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Ouch
Compression and leak down test time.
There is a product called BlueDevil Combustion Chamber sealant. You dump it in the system and run the bike at temp idling for an hour. But I'd recommend only dumping in half the quart container it comes in.
It would be a quick fix to confirm a lifted gasket is your culprit.

blue devil head gasket repair
 

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Discussion Starter #54
In process of full tear down.

Compression is 191psi across the board, id say perfect?
I do not have my own leak-down tester.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Honestly it was steaming really bad on cold starts, thought it was temperature differential. Now im hoping this is all just coolant leaking into the cylinder under vacuum and then again when its shut off.

That explains why its SO bad when cold and under choke. And all of its anomalies when running.
 

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Ahhh come to think of it, was the compression check done on a hot engine.(probably not to damn easy to get scorched). So yes it could bethat it's tight when cold but shifts under heat. Check head bolt threads for stretching. Hopefully when you pull the head it'll stare you right in the face. Your thinking right too if it lifts you can get an imbalance and reversion. If you put gauges on it you wouldn't see it act up until I got hot.
 

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The oil leak will be a not seated correctly cam cover gasket around the spark plug tunnels. Had this on mine when I did a valve check.

Have you replaced the two elbow fuel lines on the fuel tap? I had a similar running issue with fuel starvation symptons and it turned out to be old weak lines that were over pinching at the bend in the elbow.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
You can see in the picture, the valve cover is almost dry, around the header is dry, but oil is coming out all around the head gasket. The motor has been pulled, doing a full top end inspection. So far everything else looks perfect.
 
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