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2001 CBR1100XX in the fastest colour.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, my Blackbird was possibly the worst handling bike I've owned. The front tyre was worn in a really weird pattern I suspect by a fairly upright riding owner. The suspension was all stock and had never been touched. Here is what I have done and found.

1st - new front tyre really helped with low speed handling and turn in. But it's a BT023 and quite frankly is not up to spirited riding. It's quite slow to warm up and not particularly confidence inspiring or grippy when warm either.

2nd - a 6mm spacer went in. This really helped, but then highlighted how boingy the back end was so . . .

3rd - I have gone with a Nitron shock, it has a 1100lb spring and I initially went for about 30% sag. Best improvement so far, I have it 1mm shorter than OE but have used the 6mm spacer so currently +5mm.

4th - 10N K-tech springs with 30mm of loaded sag, this lifted the front again and made slow speed handling worse. But hard braking is brilliant.

5th - I cut 10mm off the fork spacer tubes to get from sag to 35mm, and added a little preload to the rear slightly lifting the rear loaded height. All good again. Although the fork oil stinks so I'll be changing that now.

Has anyone used cranked spanners to alter the Nitron ride height whilst the shock is on the bike? I reckon a mm or 2 at the back and this thing will be there or there abouts.
 

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I take mine off to do mine, my brain wouldn't let me tighten the lock nuts back together leaving the shock on my bird lol.
I have a 1300 or 1350 spring, I stated 130kg and occasionall pillion when I ordered my nitron.
I also did 10nm vfr800 fork springs, but I've got the jaws fork preload adjusters on mine to fine tune ride hight out,, I did have a weird feeling though on the back, and after servicing the suspension linkage, the needle rollers were worn a little bit so replaced all 3 and now I feel the back end reacting as it should, and I can feel the ride hight differance when I adjust rear preload, I did 2-3mm shim and about the same in the shock adjuster on the shock body lower as well.
if you want a new spring rate, i use racetech web site to work my spring rate out, then i order them from falkner springs here in the uk, there cheaper than nitron, demon tweeks use falkner springs as well, top quality.
 

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Oh and I also raised my forks through the yoke, I think it's at 6- 7mm lowered from standard hight.
Oh you probably already have taken it into account, but dont forget by highering the rear end with the shock spacer, you need to readjust your chain slack, because the standard 25mm-35mm will be to tight especially 25mm.
I have mine 35-40mm, at 45mm I can feel it's slightly to much. Each to there own though.
 

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2001 CBR1100XX in the fastest colour.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh and I also raised my forks through the yoke, I think it's at 6- 7mm lowered from standard hight.
Oh you probably already have taken it into account, but dont forget by highering the rear end with the shock spacer, you need to readjust your chain slack, because the standard 25mm-35mm will be to tight especially 25mm.
I have mine 35-40mm, at 45mm I can feel it's slightly to much. Each to there own though.
Yeah thanks, the instruction said to alter the chain slack. I've got my KTM back for commuting this week. So I'll probably not get the big old barge out until Wednesday.
 

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2001 CBR1100XX in the fastest colour.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's going well. Zero chicken strip on the rear and almost to the edge on the front. I think I may lengthen the shock a mm or two more and give myself a bit more sag by backing off the preload a tad. I haven't needed to drop the yokes down the forks.
 

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Want to corner fast and safe. Get your butt off seat. Get some chicken stripe back. If your zeroing the strip your approaching a dangerous point. You could be very close to touching down bodywork or pegs. Or you could actually be running off your tire contact patch.
 
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