Got back from holidaying in the south of France yesterday. Holed radiator. Bugger! :crap:
The bike's done 53K in the last 4 years, so it's time for a "refresh".
Has anyone used/heard about/been warned away from the cheap rads that are going for fifty quid-ish on the Bay?
I’m tempted – but I’m wary - if you get my drift, so if you’ve acquired a decent rad in the not-too-distant past your
recommendation would be greatly appreciated! I know that JAWS is asking £175, but I'm too tight-fisted to buy at
that price without checking around first.
I have one put on by the original owner, they are perfectly alright BUT be warned make sure the overflow spigot is the same as the Honda one. The one in your picture is wrong and will interfere with the fairing.
Quite right about the spigot. Mine did interfere with the fairing and wasn't put on by me. Now I find it has worn away and water everywhere after a journey. How the f**k do you get the reservoir tank out FFS ! driving me mad !!!
Got one here, 2 yrs now and no issues. Mine had the awkward angled spigot. Simple fix, i shortened it and used a 8mm compression elbow, short piece of 8mm copper and onto the rubber pipe. I suspect the JAWS ones are the same chinese ones simply rebadged and sold on. Just make sure you use good radiator paint ie https://www.frost.co.uk/paints-coat...radiator-paint-aerosol-gloss-black-500ml.html
Cheers, fellas – a coupla good shouts there, as expected. :thumb:
I’ll check my rad and take some pics before contacting a seller,
just to make sure we’re “on the same page”.
mine's been fine for a few years now. i didn't have issues with the overflow tube. only issue i did have was related to a previous owner's crash damage...
upon re-assembly (with the new un-bent radiator), there was an unnoticed clearance issue with the fan that the temp guage & fan fuse so kindly informed me of...
can't recall which seller, i might be able to dig that up from the home computer later if you'd like.
HI mine was the same i cut it down added a small piece of pipe and a push in pipe connecter jubilee clip
either side works fine with fairing grills aswell
I have mine in place for probably 10000 km's or more, only one issue, when I (my mechanic ) installed it, original, new OEM XX rad cap was put in place. When the bike got into temperatue, the water would overflow from the back reservoir, the china cheapo rad + OEM rad cap didn't seem to work together well. Put the rad cap that came with the rad, so full China, all is well, on open roads under normal speeds the temperature can drop to 77'C (170F), on OEM rad I only saw it under 80'C in wintertime.
I think it's a good bargain, I paid mine $50 but prices for them fluctuate a lot on eBay, I saw the same supplier ramp up the price from $50 to $300 within months.
I just bought an alu one on fleabay back in Aug 2018.
A few points:
- there are at least two versions out there (for carb (green tick in your pic) v fi birds (red cross)). They look slightly different, mount to the bike differently and host the fan differently. Some sellers labeled their stock as "fits all years". I'm not convinced by that. My bird is a '97 (xx-v) so I ensured I bought the carb version. Quickest way to spot the dif, carb version has straight sides and has 4 brackets to attach the fan, FI version has sculpted sides and only 3 brackets to mount its fan.
- a lot on fleabay appear to be raw (unpainted) aluminium from the photos. The seller I bought from supplied it at least painted silver (I've used that as a base layer and sprayed it with "VHT" (very high temperature) manifold/engine black paint to look factory fresh).
- on the stock carb version the neck of the filling inlet (external diameter) is narrower than the fleabay ones. Not by much but it means You have to trim the plastic airflow/ heat shield which attaches to the top of the radiator. A minor issue but forewarned is forearmed. I can't comment re the FI ones.
- the new rad didn't come with any fittings so make sure you keep the rubber mounting gromets, bolts etc from your old one. Oh, and your old fan assembly itself.
- Same for the thermostat (swap the blanking bolt for your thermostat bolt. Blanking bolt had a new o-ring which I've used as a replacement on my old thermostat).
Now having taken the trouble to drain my old coolant,
I took the opportunity to replace it with a better fluid. Used Evans (as it contains no water so cools at a lower pressure… so less risk of leaks). There's plenty written in other threads re fluid choice so I won't repeat here. Just be mindful to look out for your two copper washers on the two drain plugs to either catch them to reuse (easy to flush them away with first spurts of exiting coolant) or simply be pre prepared to replace them. Make sure you use the right coolant if sticking with OEM equivalent. Horror stories seem to result if types get mixed (possibly creating a thicker gel or damaging internal seals etc).
Also I'm took the opportunity to fit a rad guard as my old rad sprung a leak post a debris strike. R&G seems to be the favoured brand. Some complaint about difficulty fitting but that may be due to the carb v fi differences. I've opted for a DIY fix (perforated steel sheet from B&Q, VHT painted up and zip tied with metal zip ties plus a few silicon gromets sandwiched in between to dampen any vibration likely to cause a rattle) for a fraction of the cost (75% saving).
I ordered a rad today and, fortunately, its appearance (apparently) fits well with Mallow’s description,
but I’ll wait until it arrives (next Wednesday) before confirming it as the correct choice.
I'm still slightly concerned about the angles of the filler neck and the tube outlets as compared to the
rad on my bike, but I suppose I'll be better placed to feed back to everyone next week.
Yep me as well, 3 years no issues, did paint it before putting it on though.
I don't think it cools any better than factory it was more a case of the new one had cooling fins and my old radiator the fins had corroded away at the bottom.
Hi all
So my bike is 1999, and I have been looking for new rad. as well.
Here's what I found on The Bay, Do you guys think this would be the right one ?
1999 is the cross over year between the old carburetor version and the fuel injected version. You need to know whether your '99 is FI or carb. It may be possible that you have an older carb version that wasn't registered until '99 or you've got one of the first FI versions out that year. Each uses a different radiator (they are not interchangeable).
If it's got a choke lever on the left gearswitch (and an "S" sidestand warning light on your dash) it's most likely the carb version.
If there isn't a choke lever but you've got an FI light on your dash instead of the "S" you've most likely got the FI version.
I say "most likely" as it's not impossible that someone has messed about fitting wrong replacement parts because they're
an idiot and/ or attempted to make a carb version look like a younger FI version etc.
So taking off enough of your body work to see the filler neck and radiator sides will confirm which "shape" of radiator you have. You'll have to take the body panels off to fit a new radiator anyway so you may as well do it now to ensure you order the correct rad. Read post #9 above and earlier posts in this thread will then help you confirm which of the two types of radiator is fitted.
All the above ought to give you enough to double check which version you've got and therefore need as a replacement. Don't simply go by what you read here, physically confirm it for yourself. None of us here accept any liability if you order a wrong part.
Mine is a Fi verson,
I'll take a look tonight and see if it's the right one!
Update: I just bough one on The Bay, the picture from the seller that provided shows Fi verson, So I think it'll fit just fine.
I also got a friend of mine in Japan bringing me a used oil cooler. in a very good shape, cost me less than $45.
* IF you have friends in Japan, there are a TON of parts for Black Birds on Yahoo Japan Auction site. For such a good price. (I saw a complete engine for $450, only 35000 Km on it before they part the bike out)
Great if you can figure out Japaneses and or have someone over there to ship it for you.
Well, the new radiator arrived today. I made a quick, visual comparison before commencing work with the big hammer and the mole grips.
Everything looked fine and my initial caution regarding potential fitment problems disappeared immediately. Let's get the bugger painted!
I'd elected to buy the matt black finish for the rad, but wished I'd gone for the gloss when I remembered that the stator cover was looking a bit tatty. It'll have to go on the "to do" list!
I decided to flush the engine while the paint was drying on the new rad: that and everything else went well. Swapping the fan and grommets was a doddle and the old girl was soon
back together. All I need now is an air gun (blower) that I can fit to my mini compressor so I can blow out all the sand that's found its way into the nooks and crannies. Next time we
stay next to the beach I'll take a full bike cover!
Job lookin good bro! I added a DIY rad guard held on with metal tie tags.
I did that on my new rad as the old one was killed by road debris. Simple. Worth considering?
Thanks for sharing, I was wondering what kind of paint did you apply on.
As I'm in Canada I wonder if there's any alternative or different kind of paint I can use.
I also made a DIY radiator guard. Will post a picture later!
Paint came from Halfords in spray can. The brand was Simoniz as it was the better rated VHT (very high temperature) i.e. 800°C not their own label which was rated only at 500°C. I don't know if it truly makes any difference used here.
Hey guys, the rad guards look great. :clap: You’re keeping me busy as that’s another addition to the “to do” list!
I was looking at different coolants yesterday and saw this low-priced one from Repsol. £14 for 5 litres is, as
they say, "very reasonable". :eyebrows: Does anyone out there have any experience of, or feedback on this product?
Mallow1, I clicked the link in your earlier post - https://www.cbrxx.com/parts-for-sale...#/topics/11145- but that’s an
SW-Motech thread – any other leads on different coolants would be much appreciated! <img src="http://www.cbrxx.com/images/smilies/thumb.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Thumbs Up" class="inlineimg" />
That's weird. The display name of the link does say SW Motech but when I click it (even your posted copy it takes me to the correct post on coolant). Weird.
Purchased the flushing fluid and coolant from Fleabay.
Chose it as it's specifically designed for alu rads with copper and steel components (Honda race team use it according to Evans's webpage). Supposedly running at 75% lower pressure than a water based fluid and lasts 20yrs
I have some update for my cheap radiator. I got it from ebay, "GPI racing"
I painted black, and today as I attempted to install it...
It does NOT fit.
As the radiator filler neck has the wrong angle, it'll interfere with the oil cooler. The design of the radiator is meant for Fi fuel injected model, but the neck is for Carb. model. (filler neck is straight)
i just installed the one for the mkI bb with the straight filler spout last week
some pointers
they do work just fine
they do fit up to a point
they are slightly wider and can just brush the side fairing
they are 50 pct thicker and this makes fitting the under nosecone black air dam very difficult without trimming it significantly as the clearance between rad and frame is very tight
your rad fan will also be about 2 cm closer to the exhausts you may need to adjust the mounting feet slightly for the fan shroud to mate exactly
due to them being much thicker they will even overcool the engine in normal use in northern europe
the hose spouts are very smooth and if you want to be sure the hose will grip well a little roughing up will be of use
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