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Wilbers rear spring,
MRA Vario shield,
simple, but effective cruise controll "Cruisy evo",
semiautomatic oiler Cobrra nemo 2
- Bought new Shoei (after having XR1000 for 12 years),
- had some kind discussion with my wife, bought her tickets to visit her family in the Ukraine,
- got shocked how much that all cost,
- finally took the Bird from Germany to SPAIN
(just incredible roads with never-ending curves and no traffic at all),
- changed the front tire during the trip (12500 on the old Metzeler z8)
and after 3000km on this trip
- got a bad flue in near Sierra Nevada and got stuck here for 3 days for now...
Anyway, what a bike the bird is!
I pray, that Mr. Honda will reincarnate it and build such bullet proof "fuelt-to-fun" machine again
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Charge situation fixing today. Few days ago I got back home from a dayride and decided to give the bike one more start because I thought it sounded bit lazy. Pressed the button, just heard clicks. So off it went to the shop AGAIN.
The rectifier I got is from a local guy who makes them himself and sells them quite a lot, and many people give good reviews on it. I can't find any seller nearby with Shindengen 775, the 847 costs a lot at the local Suzuki dealership, so I bought his unit.
Quick and dirty test today with wires just taped together. First we checked the stator connector, and by the way I'm happy to see all the connectors on that side of the bike look really healthy, no signs of anything else but yellowing plastic, so that's nice. Stator on idle, I think we went thru all the combinations and it had 16V every time. I did read here somewhere that it should be 20, so...don't know if this means stator going out. But it was even, 16 on all combinations, not a single discrepancy.
Then the rectifier test (wired directly to the battery);
idle (1200ish), lights off, 12.8 - 13
idle with both lights on, 12.2-12.5
even the slightest blip of throttle, for example 2000 rpm: 13.3-13.7
and I think on idle with all lights on and fan coming on it was maybe 12.2 or even 12...
My mechanic said he isn't impressed with the rec but that it should work. Not sure what should I do. I found a store that stocks Rick's stators here close to where I live, perhaps the new rec would work better with a new stator...and I would have peace of mind too.
Just curious why you're willing to buy inferior stuff insisting that it be local. Can you not get stuff shipped to Croatia? I got my kit from https://roadstercycle.com/ Will they not ship to you?
It's just the matter of shipping time and import duties.
Take for example Roadstercycle rectifier
- $200 for the part
- $30 or so for the shipping from the US to here
- it gets to our customs, they "assess" what kind of part is it and slap whatever category % on it, most likely somewhere around 20% because of its "technical" nature
- $276 - now they have to add import handling, 5% on that
- $290 - this is now the taxable number, as any product that we buy here it has value added tax on top of it, and it's 25%
So that would bring the rectifier price north of $350 and I won't condone that kind of behavior
Wowser. Well, apples to apples, Jack at Roadster has the same simpler kit he sells for about $120 but yes, you'd have to pay all those extra costs.
Just for curiosity sakes, what are the OEM options, I know about the Yamaha R1 but which model years apply? And I presume in case of Yamaha R1 rec it's not plug and play, or is it?
Found someone commenting how he used 2003 FZ1 rec for 20000 miles without issues (Yamaha 5FL8196000).
Someone also mentioned jet ski's use Shindengen recs, the 775 and 847, maybe I can find them cheaper via marine equipment stores.
Last edited by -Tom-; 05-15-2019 at 2:05 PM.
Seems that Sea-Doo part 710001103 is the SH775AA so could that be of use? There are few Sea Doo stockists here, might get lucky on the price if the part is ok.
In a post above you mention that stator test was 16V on all pin combinations at all revs. That isn't anything like what you should expect. If i were you i would re-explore that. Check that you were measuring AC volts for a start. With stator disconnected from RR.
Stator is fundamentally a very simple electrical generator that produces AC voltage that should increase linearly with engine revs. A healthy stator should be read 50v AC to 60v AC on each pair by around 5000rpm. Up to 120v AC at redline.
The rule of thumb is 12vAC per 1000 rpm on a Blackbird.
So if you aren't seeing the right outputs across the pins of a disconnected stator then nothing else will be right because that's the starting point for the charging system.
No good deed goes unpunished!
What's the bottom figure at idle?
I can't recall if RR was connected or not when the mechanic measured, but it was only at idle, 16V on all combinations.
Tom typically on a good stator 24 VAC. From each winding PAIR of wires.
Route 191 formerly Route 666 Some say that this section of the
road has 1100 curves in 95 miles.
Finally got the Reg Rec and gasket to replace the fried unit. Al went together nice. After a week down with 75+ degree days,....its pouring cats and wombats. (tried to relate to the Aussys)
Nevermind what the local guy says.
A bad stator will fry new R/R again.
Take the 120$ plus tax plus shipping for the Shindengen and another 100$ for stator. Only this solves your problems, but it will be solved to the bike's end.
(I personally bought the alternative pars from Jaws and they work for me also fine, about 10t km, price 80 £ + 75£ + shipping).
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OK, here's the update.
Called a local Sea Doo shop, they have plenty of 710001103 items in stock, which is the SH775AA. The price is $200.
Called Suzuki dealership, they can get the 32800-31J00 part which is the SH847, the price is $300.
Tomorrow I'll get a quote for the Rick's Electrics stator, so now the decision is either 775 or 847, I don't run anything extra on the bike, and to be honest I'd like to switch all the bulbs to LED, but from what I've read both 775 and 847 are good for the task, so I'm thinking 775 would be good to go.
Or is there some undeniable advantage with the 847?