carburetor adjustment - Page 5
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View Poll Results: miles on my carb:

Voters
36. You may not vote on this poll
  • 25.000

    14 38.89%
  • 50.000

    11 30.56%
  • 75.000

    6 16.67%
  • 100.000

    5 13.89%
  • had to change parts inside of the carb (post at what mileage)

    0 0%
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Thread: carburetor adjustment

  1. #61

    Member #
    1728
    Bike(s)
    81,82,83 CBF's, 98 CBRxx, 07 CBR-1000RR/R, 83 FXSB
    Join Date
    Jun 03 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    3,946
    Liked
    1030 times

    Re: carburetor adjustment

    At a guess (total shot in the dark but it's happened before) you have connected the "auto fuel shut off petcock" vacuum supply line to the wrong nipple on the "auto fuel shut off petcock". The carbs are vented which reduces the chances that the float bowls will come under any kind of vacuum or vapor lock action. The attachment shows the correct line connections at the petcock.

    It is common that most connect the #2 cylinder vacuum port to the petcock nipple which faces directly down. This is not correct. The nipple that faces to the side is the one to connect the small vacuum line to. It's also common that the vacuum connection gets completely forgotten about (does not get reconnected) in which case the same results present...no fuel flow to the carb float bowls. More pictures and words are located here:

    https://www.cbrxx.com/engine-airbox-e...tml#post368230



    T.
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    "Stemmata quid faciunt."

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  3. #62

    Member #
    4623
    Bike(s)
    bent b-bird 74% repaired....closer to 90% now
    Join Date
    Sep 27 2008
    Location
    salt lake city
    Posts
    69
    Liked
    11 times
    Things to think about......... there are only two ways that the carbs can get out of sync either someone been messing with the linkage or the valves need adjusting....
    And...the fastest, easiest and cheapest way to diagnose carb issues is infrared temp gun....if it runs like crap the chances of all 4 carbs having a problem is kind of remote...start it up, let it build a little head and shoot the exhaust pipe close to the head...anything more than 50-75* colder means that cylinder isn't working properly...Idle mix is adjustable, you just have to remove the cap that covers the mix screw.....the jets were junk in mine when i got it...bought new low speed jets next size up...after that i shimmed the main needle about .050.....stock exhaust....no stumble pop fart misfire anywhere..dead ass smooth...and from a 1000 rpm idle, instant wot, my roomate can get the front wheel off the ground at 3500 rpm,,
    Last edited by rmjg; 12-17-2017 at 12:01 PM.


 
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