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Thread: Oem exhausts

  1. #16

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    Thank you for the replies. Update, I put a 16k ohm resistor in line on the pink ecu feed wire and it runs much better, difficult to start cold though. I've ordered a replacement temp sensor with the higher resistance, I'll remove the resistor and see how it is with the new sensor fitted.

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  3. #17

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    Re: Oem exhausts

    Is there a cat in the square section of the header? Or were they only in the enlarged section of the pipes?

  4. #18

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    Just the enlarged part of the pipes as far as I'm aware.
    Silverbird1137 likes this.

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  6. #19

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    Re: Oem exhausts

    As nige stated it's only in the enlarged section of the slipon
    Route 191 formerly Route 666 Some say that this section of the
    road has 1100 curves in 95 miles.

  7. #20

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    Re: Oem exhausts

    Thanks guys

  8. #21

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    Check the fuel pressure regulator. It's on the end of the fuel rail. Pull off the vacuum hose; if fuel comes out, the diaphragm is ruptured and the valve needs replacement.

  9. #22

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    I've fitted a brand new 50psi fpr, no change, I've also fitted the higher resistance coolant temp sensor, it's slightly better but still not right. The Fi diagnostic plug doesn't seem to work and the fi light is constantly on, I think I might have a short in the loom from a previously bodged loom fix. But I don't want to and can't afford to keep chucking money at it.

  10. #23

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    Re: Oem exhausts

    Ok Nige
    The FPR installed may be to high a pressure which will make the bike run rich. Only to fix it is go back to the earlier FPR or install a power commander and take out the extra fuel in the fueling tables.
    You say the diagnostic plug doesn't work? So you can't get it to flash codes when you activate it per the manual? You can also get codes by starting the bike and having it run with the side stand down. See what the light does then.
    There is a factory manual in the resources section if you need guidance on how to enable the FI read and what causes the codes you find.
    Route 191 formerly Route 666 Some say that this section of the
    road has 1100 curves in 95 miles.

  11. #24

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    Thanks for that, I'll change back to original fpr. I've got a copy of the factory manual and the Haynes manual and I've followed the procedure for the diagnostic both with engine running on side stand and with it not running and bridging the diagnostic plug and tried to reset the ecm, nothing I do gets the fi light to flash, it just stays constantly on.

  12. #25

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    Re: Oem exhausts

    Quote Originally Posted by Nige0568 View Post
    I've searched the forums but I haven't found a definitive answer.
    I have a 2001 fi Bird that's running really rough low down and it's running incredibly rich with lots of black soot on the outlet of the cans, it also did about 45 miles to a tank of fuel, I've ordered an fpr and waiting for it to be delivered but I'm not convinced that's the problem as there seems to be no fuel in the vacuum hose when I remove it. The original exhaust system was in bad shape so I've replaced the entire system with oem downpipes including later model cans that have the cats in the link pipes, I've blocked the hole for the o2 sensor with the correct size bolt, after a run the exhausts are glowing red, is it possible that it's running so badly due to the cats in the pipes?
    Just a couple of questions to clarify your statement above.

    1) Is your bike is an EU 2001 with O2 sensor FI?
    2) You removed the O2 sensor and blocked the port, did you disconnect the O2 sensor from the harness or leave it plugged in?

    My understanding is that all 01-up Euro and California bikes have the O2 sensor FI system and am just wondering what happened to yours.

    Also according to the manual (pg. 5-12) there are two results that are associated with a constant FI light LIT. 1, the bike doesn't start, 2, bike runs "normally" (kind of your case). I'm not sure a bad ground on the lamp can cause a constant LIT condition since the FI light is an LED and the power side comes directly from the ECU. So I would try to unplug the ECU and check for corroded pins. There may be something wrong with the ECU entirely, which apart from the common code 25 error is an extremely rare event.

  13. #26

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    My bike although it was registered in 2001, it is a 2000 model XXY with analogue dash so it's never had an o2 sensor fitted, I sourced a complete replacement exhaust system from a later model so I had to plug the port for the o2 sensor, this is also why I have cats in the pipes when it shouldn't do. I have considered whether it could be the ecm but trying to avoid that possibility because if it is I don't have the funds to replace it and my bike is then effectively scrap value.

  14. #27

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    This is my bike, it looks OK and apart from the over fueling it runs well.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #28

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    Re: Oem exhausts

    Agree with Cobra
    The FI light is a concern first of all.
    Those cans need to have the cats knocked out. They will cause a big restriction and fueling issues. Not to mention that that blowing is caused by the cats after burning the excess fuel. If you keep running it they can fuse closed or worse go into a melt down.
    Route 191 formerly Route 666 Some say that this section of the
    road has 1100 curves in 95 miles.

  16. #29

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    I'm not using it at the minute, I've removed those cans and I'm trying to source some non cat cans. I just want to ride it now before the weather turns, but that's not looking likely.

  17. #30

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    Re: Oem exhausts

    Quote Originally Posted by Nige0568 View Post
    My bike although it was registered in 2001, it is a 2000 model XXY with analogue dash so it's never had an o2 sensor fitted, I sourced a complete replacement exhaust system from a later model so I had to plug the port for the o2 sensor, this is also why I have cats in the pipes when it shouldn't do. I have considered whether it could be the ecm but trying to avoid that possibility because if it is I don't have the funds to replace it and my bike is then effectively scrap value.
    Ok thanks for the clarification, as Bee's said those cat pipes are no good for you so anything (including straight pipes) would be better for testing. I don't think the new vs old FPR is at the root of your problem, 7 psi difference in a good functioning system isn't going to make it run as badly as you describe.

    So with the MI light always on there are 3 possibilities 1) Short in the MIL wire, 2) Short in the service connector wire, and the big one... 3) A faulty ECM. I would check and fix all the grounds on your bike just based on local climate but I'm also wondering if you don't have a stuck injector. Pulling the plugs or taking a reading on each downtube will tell you if a specific cylinder is an issue or if it's an overall rich condition.

    Good luck.


 
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