Damn, over a year?! Hopefully that's the fix! Good luck!
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Damn, over a year?! Hopefully that's the fix! Good luck!
Murphys 55th law of combat operations:
The complexity of a weapon is inversely proportional to the IQ of the weapon's operator.
a quick way to check fuel flow will be to remove the fuel return hose, from the FPR back to the tank, using a bucket or such container turn tthe ignition on, you should get fuel flow from the FPR back to the tank.
Having a TigerST moment, did you remove the fuel line from the fuel pump to the fuel rail, side stand side of bike, if so, did you replace it in the right aspect, as putting it on wrong, by that I mean banjo joints wrong way round, will cause a kink to form when the tank is in the lowered position and a no go situation just like fuel starvation, and just like TigerST , a mate told me he had done this
If the tank was that nasty inside I am betting plugged injector feed screen. The are screened on the input as well to prevent getting debris in the injector body itself. If the tank is as nasty as you say, your in for a complete rail dissasembly to verify they are clear.
Fitted new fuel filter, fresh fuel in a clean tank and still she will only run on number 1 - I have installed another brand new set of plugs too.
I am still getting the same fault code from the ECM with 19 blinks. The manual shows this to be a faulty Ignition Sender but I have replaced the sender and pick up with new Honda items.
I am going to look at the wiring harness next and then check the fuel flow although I don't think fuel is a problem as the plugs that don't fire are getting wet with fuel after this god knows what I will try next!!!
Anyway ride safe and take care out there.
It's a 2000 model, read nothing that you performed the Loom Fix on the test plug.
There is no test plug that I can find just a collection of green earths in a yellow one ended joint. I guess this could be as a result of the alarm being fitted before I bought the bike. I suspect the ECU is at fault as I am getting the correct conditions at the grey and black plugs that connect to the ECU. Wish I had an ECU test lead. After this it will be a fuel flow test, although when I drained the tank before cleaning it out the fuel was flowing ok, and then I will have to remove the fuel rail and clean that out just in case. I may try some easy start and see if she fires from my sending some fuel into the injectors. Here's hoping I don't miss yet another summer!!
Thanks STex but it would appear that my bike has already had the loom fix. I located the plug several weeks ago and have taken off about a roll of insulation tape to get to it. I looked at the photos in one of the postings in this thread and the block appears to be a big light brown block with some 10 or 12 connections. I have a small yellow block with 10 connection. There is no corrosion and it looks fairly new. No poor readings across any of the connections. The bike has always started but only on number 1 cylinder. I have swapped the plugs round and still only number 1 fires up. Looking at the plugs from 2,3 and 4 they are not wet so I am going to clean out the fuel rail and squirt some fuel down the bores to see if she starts. However, I am a bit concerned that the ECM has gone west as I am still getting 19 blinks even after clearing the fault codes....
Had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned by Mr Injector UK - still wouldn't start. New fuel pump - still wouldn't start. Poured some fuel down the inlets and bang - fires up on all four cylinders. No priming from the fuel pump when switching the ignition on and no fault codes when bridging the service plug so suspect an ECM fault. Anybody know how to test the ECM without going to a dealer?
Whilst it could be the ECM please don't jump to that conclusion.
When I rebuilt Duck from a scrapper I experienced the same problem and it wasn't the ECM that had the problem. Somewhere in the wiring loom there was corrosion which meant that the ECM was receiving a 'fault' and therefore refusing to allow the pump to prime. No codes were showing. Several rounds of cleaning of contacts and connector blocks and the bike fired up. It has run perfectly ever since.
Full of Hot air? Intercool yourself............ you know it makes sense
Thanks Krisbiker 2, not tried these yet as my bird is in Portugal whilst I am in the UK. We moved out to Portugal for a while and had all our stuff transported over there but then came back a few months later. long boring story. Will try your suggestions when we next go over which will be soon so thanks a lot.
Hi all. it's been a while since my last update. Well, I have hot wired the fuel pump and the pump works fine so out of curiosity I decided to check the voltage output at the BARO sensor because I read in an electronics manual that there should be between 4.1 & 5.5 volts at the BARO connector upon turning the ignition on and there is no voltage at all, there should also be the same voltage at the FPR connector when turning the ignition on and there is no voltage at all meaning the ECU is fried. Having spoken to 2 ECU repair companies who have confirmed my suspicions that the ECU is dead I have sent the ECU off to a company called Carmo electronics in The Netherlands as they can repair it.
Be curious to see the outcome and coast. Wonder too if they have been able to hack the language. Hmmmmm maybe a reprogram opportunity is possible.
Route 191 formerly Route 666 Some say that this section of the
road has 1100 curves in 95 miles.
So when you hard wired the fuel pump did the bike start ? - it should have based on your previous posts
I'm going to look at the circuit diagram see if I can spot something - if memory serves - the ECU has a 5v output for some sensors easily measured on the connector - if that wire is broken somewhere the ECU will not get feedback from the sensors and shut down the fuel pump via the Fuel pump relay - the engine stop switch is involved throughthe engine start relay (will also stop the pump)- but I believe that 5v rail/wire is critical - will check...………...update y/r wire coming from ECU but there is also another one I think, can check for 5v on the map sensor (easiest) it also feeds the TPS
here is a diagram I create for another thread showing the items that will give your symptoms
update - BARO sensor will not stop engine starting - the engine start relay should click with the engine stop switch toggle, I'm sure you checked the obvious stuff already and also the BAS - they all cut power to the fuel pump relay, and the main fuse B (2 on the diagram) on top of the starter solenoid is also critical and problematic
Last edited by GeoffXX; 06-11-2019 at 2:19 AM.