Dear BB users. Like me, many of you have charging woes. This has fixed them. I got tot he point of cutting my losses and selling the thing and this has encouraged me not to do that. Huge thanks to Pete for helping...
Reg Rec and with wiring it (Jack’s)
Stator (West Country Windings)
Stator cover gasket
Reg Rec Bracket (Baking tray and 10mm Alu stock)
Allen keys (4mm, 5mm, 6mm)
¼” drive Sockets (8mm, 10mm)
¼” Torque Wrench (12ft/lb)
M6 washers x4
M6 Nylock Nuts x2
Heatshrink of various sizes
Washing up liquid
1) Greet Pete, clear area for deck chair, drink coffee made for us.
2) Remove side fairing (5mm, 6mm, poppers). The trick to this is to undo all of the bolts and poppers but the top middle one, this holds it steady and stops it bending, breaking or hitting the floor. Keep bolts in a pile or a separate container.
3) Remove tail fairing (5mm, 6mm). When all bolts are out, remove handle first, then gently pull tail up and back, pulling the sides apart gently for clearance. Store out of the way. Keep bolts in a pile or a separate container.
4) On a piece of cardboard cut from a cereal box, recreate the pattern of the stator bolts, marking each location with a cross cut with the scalpel.
5) Begin to undo the stator cover bolts (8mm ¼” drive socket, ¼” ratchet, ¼” extension). Crack them all off first then go about removing them. Place each bolt into the corresponding hole on the cardboard. Mark the top with a grubby thumb.
6) Firmly grab the stator cover, rock it a bit and it will come away.
7) Snip the three yellow stator wires with the wirecutters.
8) Sit on deck chair and undo 4x 5mm allen bolts to remove redundant up stator ring.
9) With scalpel, gently remove any silicone residue from U-shaped trough into which the 2x rubber grommets for the stator wires slot into.
10) Remove old grommets from old wires by placing in hot water and pulling each wire out with pliers.
11) If not brittle, patiently rethread grommets onto new stator wires using washing up liquid as lube. Be sure the pattern matches on both grommets, no twists between the two.
12) Using 8mm socket, remove the old reg rec. Retain the two bolts, discard the reg rec.
13) Use a piece of paper and a grubby thumb to make a ‘rubbing’ (think primary school, crayons and tree bark) of the bracket already there to take the stator. The new one won’t fit and needs a bracket fabricating.
14) From a piece of baking tray, using tin snips, cut a square big enough to cover the existing bracket and the size of the new RR. Refine any sharp edges with the bench grinder.
15) Using your new grubby thumb rubbing, centre punch, hammer and drill the 2x 6.5mm holes That will allow the piece of baking tray to attach to the old bracket.
16) Hold the new RR on with zipties and check the tail fairing clears it.
17) Mark the baking tray by scratching it with the punch as you have the RR in place.
18) Remove baking tray, mark, punch and drill 2x 6.5mm holes. This marks the location of your RR and the 10mm block of alu you will make to keep it proud of the original boltheads.
19) Place the new stator ring into the cover and secure the 4 bolts with a bit of Loctite and a 5mm allen key.
20) With a bit of black silicone as glue, push the little grommets into the u-shaped trough.
21) With little dabs of silicone, secure the new gasket to the cover, the little dowels also help this to seal.
22) You get one shot at this and is all clamps together magnetically so get it right and mind your fingers.
23) Remove the bolts from your cereal box template and get them finger tight.
24) Torque them to 12nm with the 8mm socket and your torque wrench. Pete advises to work in a diagonal pattern and I make brackets from baking trays. Do it Pete’s way.
25) Undo 2x bolts holding tank and lift it up. Prop it with a piece of wood to make cable routing easier.
26) Route the cables up to a place they can reasonably make friends with the new RR making sure you sleeve them in black rubber.
27) Get the pluggy bit of the kit with 3 yellow wires protruding and slip a bit of heat shrink over it (big enough to cover the connectors you are about to crimp).
28) Doing one, then the next then the last, shove the stripped ends into the connector and crimp with crimping pliers.
29) Slide the heat shrink over and begin using a lighter to shrink it. Resolve to use Pete’s Danger-Lux 5000 hairdryer later.
30) Go to Pete’s house to fabricate a 10mm thick bracket from aluminium which puts my baking tray to shame.
31) Marvel as Pete overtakes a slow car in his slow van.
32) Make the bracket and return home (thanks Pete).
33) Use the hairdryer to heatshrink the connectors.
34) Using 8mm socket, attach the baking tray bracket to the old RR mounting.
35) Slip bolts (M6, 30mm long, washers and nylocks) through RR and through new spacer.
36) Attach the RR spacer combo to the bracket and tighten.
37) Clip plugs into RR and route the cables where you can, attaching the red and black wires to the battery terminals.
38) Secure the wires wherever you can to make them look neat and to allow the seat to go on.
39) Check it works.
40) Fit the fairings (reverse of removal).