Weird electrical problem that keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse - Page 2
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Thread: Weird electrical problem that keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse

  1. #16

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    Re: Weird electrical problem that keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse

    Betting engine stop wire pinched to ground
    The answer is 42

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  3. #17

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    Re: Weird electrical problem that keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse

    Thank you, gentlemen! I rode some 20 miles through hot city streets, and turns out I am quite lucky as the bike stalled just 400 yards short of the mechanic's garage. The guy immediately confirmed that the fuel pump is out of question, and that it had to be something else. The first thing he did at the roadside was putting in a fresh 20A fuse D (I rode on a 20A one instead of 10A), but that one blew right away.

    So I pushed the bike to his place, where he disconnected the ECU just to confirm that the connectors were OK. In the process he cursed the previous owner for running a Scottoiler vacuum unit right on top of the ECU (I had got rid of the oily bastard as soon as I'd bought the bike). And voila - the bike started normally, which leads to the idea that there must be something wrong with the rear part of the wiring loom as the problem fixed itself after he'd pulled the cabling - he's going to look into that later today.

    Next he checked the voltage coming to the battery and found out that the R/R was sending 16.8V - 18V. I immediately called the guys at the official dealership, and they (of course) said the voltage was in spec when they checked it. Too bad they don't give any documents stating the measured values like they do in Germany.

    Oh, and one more thing: I didn't realize that my steering stem bearings had died until I went pushing the bike for a few hundred yards feeling it over every pothole. The guys at the official Honda service did not notice that - they didn't even bother to check the drive chain tension.

    Now that I've ordered a new set of steering stem bearings I am looking for a new R/R unit - will probably get a Rick's Electrics unit like the one I used to have on my 99 VFR.Or maybe the mechanic will find find one from another Japanese bike and just re-wire it to fit mine.

    Will keep you posted.
    GeoffXX likes this.

  4. #18

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    Re: Weird electrical problem that keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse

    Well, too late: I already did ride for 20 miles with a 20A fuse in place of a 10A one. Just hope that it didn't cause critical damage.
    The mechanic is going to strip down the wiring loom and troubleshoot it properly.

    Quote Originally Posted by fizzy View Post
    Pachuco, Geoff is correct, there is no fuse per se to the fuel pump, only a relay, which may be acting up. That could blow the fuse. Also check handlebar on/off switch.

    I am now leaning towards Geoff's idea of some pinched wire in the loom by previous service guy. Installing LEDs headlights without taking off the nose cone would entail manhandling a bunch of wires to make room. Ignition and handlebar switches go thru this space.

    Edit: Best not to "upgrade" to a 20A from a 10A fuse. Just carry a few spare 10A. If there is a pinched wire it could get hot and melt more wires around it, or worse.

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  6. #19

    Member #
    2343
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    Re: Weird electrical problem that keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse

    If it was still running and only popping fuses you should be ok. Sounds like the harness is boogered up anyway. He'll see it when he's in there. On the subject of the Honda official dealership. I have gone through and trained and am dealer certified for 3 different makers of Motorcyles. Honda, Harley Davidson and Suzuki. NOWHERE does it state and common knowledge knows anything over 15VDC going into a 12volt battery system is NOT RIGHT. TARD's (dealership)
    Route 191 formerly Route 666 Some say that this section of the
    road has 1100 curves in 95 miles.

  7. #20

    Member #
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    Re: Weird electrical problem that keeps blowing the 10A ignition fuse

    Picked up the bike yesterday. Now runs a second-hand R/R from a 03 Honda VFR800 - this unit is marked SH-689A-12 and has about 20-30 % more rib surface than the stock CBR1100XX unit marked SH-579C-12. They also differ in terms of the cabling length, and that's pretty much it. Bought it locally from a salvage yard, will test and see if it runs like it should. So far it puts out 13.6 V at idle and 13.95 V at 4,000 rpm. Looks good to me.

    The short circuit problem was finally found: turns out that the mechanics (last time round or previously) ran the cables along the fairing stay and tied them to the metal, which at some point caused rubbing and, eventually, insulation damage.

    I have no idea what the last guy fixed, but the plastic rattling coming from inside the front fairing is finally gone.

    Thanks for all the help!
    Last edited by pachuco; 06-11-2019 at 4:21 AM.
    GeoffXX likes this.


 
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