Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys
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  1. #1

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    99 bird 12000K's?? Blue, it's a project,
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    Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    Gday guys,
    sorry to drag it all back up, your probably sick of talking about this, so thanks in advance for taking the time to read this, reply and help me get this sorted..


    I own a 99 bird, and I need some advise in regards to the 'Old' F1 light please!
    I've not owned this bike very long, about 2 months now. it runs beautifully, Is in good condition for its age, starts on the button, idles at about 1800/1900 on cold start and settles to about 1050 as it warms. It's a beautiful bike to ride and I love it. However ..this bl..dy F1 light it on.
    When I got the bike it had a digital dash upgrade already installed and i noticed the F1 light was lightly glowing, So after doing a bit of digging around I joined this forum and began to read about the diode install fix and then found out about the loom fix relevant to the 99/2000 models, both well documented.
    I Decided to do both, the diode for the F1 light and i did the loom fix as a precaution, as the bikes 16 years old now and i thought ill get that done too just in case.


    I now have a 6.2 Zena diode spliced into the feed for the F1 dash light, I'm sure I got it installed in the right direction with feed coming from the battery. I read the diode thread and folowed the pics so pretty sure i got it in right. Thank you to the brains behind that, fantastic thread and an easy read! I think it went in with no dramas.

    I then did the loom fix, I followed the pictorial and description, but as I didn't finish one side at a time, (wish I had) there was a moment when I was doing the green earth wires on the group of 9 side when I may?? May have got 3 green from the 9 mixed up with 3 green from the other side? I think I got it right, but now not 100% sure??


    So, Now when I turn the key on, the bike goes through its standard tests as it powers up and then when all lights go off, when its ready to be started...the F1 light still has the faintest of a glow to it. So faint it is very hard to see at all, but it is there!
    If I then start the bike the F1 light glows brightly and steadily as the bike warms up... As the revs drop to idle when it's warm, the F1 light is again hard to see but glows lightly. If I give it a rev, the light glows brightly again then drops again at idle.
    When I ride it, the light glows constantly untill I idle it again, when it almost disappears. I can't fault the bike to ride at all performance wise, it goes like a rocket, but the light is constantly on.
    Ive inspected all the connections in the tail of the bike and around the ECU, they look shinny. I've taken the main earth off, sanded it till shinny and reinstalled. Lights still on!


    I think maybe since I did the loom fix the F1 light might? be burning brighter and on more often, if that's possible? However I'm not really sure? If I somehow got some of the green earth wires mixed when I did the loom fix, would these symptoms be the result?
    I think I got it right, I'm just going back through and questioning everything I did.


    Any and all suggestions for a cure are recieved with great thanks, this forum is awsome and I really want that light off.
    rockko

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  3. #2
    Supercharged Mod
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    Preface. I am a mechanical engineer so I am 'trained to hate electrics' ...... but to get things started

    On the loom fix, the important thing to accomplished is that all the greens (numbers vary with looms) are soldered together. Now it doesn't matter if several 'bunches' are made and then these are subsequently joined together or if they are all joined in one go (I put all cable ends in a micro bore plumbing end stop and filled with solder when I fixed the loom on my 99 Bird nearly 15 years ago!) ..... just ensure they are all joined.

    As a general point a low glowing light often signifies a poor earth, have you checked these through on the bike? Corrosion on sensor connections can also have this effect, not enough to make the bike go into its 'safe mode' or refuse to start but give a bit of a glow. As a last resort a session of sensor pulling and contact cleaner might be in order, but if you go that route be prepared for a long boring session!
    Full of Hot air? Intercool yourself............ you know it makes sense

  4. #3

    Member #
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    99 bird 12000K's?? Blue, it's a project,
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    G'day The Duck,
    Thanks very much for your reply.
    Your explanation of the joining of the green wires makes me think I did get this right when I did it. But just to eliminate this area as a possible cause once and for all ill explain what I did. Please bear with me, I don't ordinarily muck around with this sort of thing.
    Anyways, here's what I did,
    One side of the conector had 8 wires, there was 3 straight green, 1 thick and two thin, I wound these together.
    then there was two yellow with red stripe, I wound these together. Lastly I took the 3 white with green stripe and wound them together.
    These were soldered in their own groups.

    On the other side there was the 10 straight green wires, I split these into groups 3 or 4 and wound them together.
    I soldered these 3 groups separately and then tried to solder the whole 10 wires together, this was when I may have got the 3 green wires (1 thick and 2 thin mixed up from the other side) Maybe?
    In the end this is what I had,
    10 green wires soldered in one blob, not too pretty but I thought ok, then heat shrunk.
    Then from the other side,
    The 2 yellow, red stripe, solderd and heat shrunk
    the 3 white with green stripe, soldered and heat shrunk
    then the 3 straight green, soldered and heat shrunk
    Should I have put 'All' green wires from both sides together in the one group?

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  6. #4
    Supercharged Mod
    Member #
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    This is a 'normal' loom plug dead end that causes all the issues - this is the original.
    loom plug.JPG

    It was these 'greens' that I soldered together.

    Where you have other plug (more/less wires and different colours) the trick is to look in the connector and you will see the 'jumpers' .... this gives you the bunches to group together and solder ..... as long as you did that, you should be fine.
    Full of Hot air? Intercool yourself............ you know it makes sense

  7. #5

    Member #
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    Here is a link to the plug Duck showed.

    https://www.cbrxx.com/members/11853-a...ture45398.html

    STex

  8. #6

    Member #
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    99 bird 12000K's?? Blue, it's a project,
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    Thanks Stex for that link, very helpfull

  9. #7

    Member #
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    99 bird 12000K's?? Blue, it's a project,
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    Thanks Duck, Very helpfull,
    I do think I got it right. I certainly attempted to do it just as you said. I looked down into the conector and saw the 'jumpers' you spoke of. I grouped those wires together.

    Because of the way I did it (dummy) there was just one second when I thought I may have mixed 3 green wires from the other side?

    I guess my question to you now or someone with the knowledge is... If I did mix those wires, would the symptoms I describe be the result?

    Thanks again for your time here, I appreciate it.
    Rockko

  10. #8
    Supercharged Mod
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    I guess my question to you now or someone with the knowledge is... If I did mix those wires, would the symptoms I describe be the result?
    the 'greens' are all earths so no mixing them wouldn't matter, off the top of my head I have no clue what the other coloured wires were connected to (would need to spend an hour with the wiring diag) but as I said earlier my main thought would be towards the bikes actual earths - starting with the bunch on the frame cross member below the rear of the tank.

    On the loom fix, when you soldered up the wires did you find any blackening of the cable copper? When I have 'loom fixed' I have found up to 300mm of this corroded cable in several of the 'greens' and it all needs cutting out before soldering up the ends (you end up soldering in lots of new cable!) ..... if you don't get it all problems can persist.

    Another thought, have you checked the ECM plugs? As is well documented these need to be clean and the ECM strapped down well. Fixing bands break along with cables (very occasionally) but even in the British climate we don't see much corrosion in there ...... worth a check out though and a spray with contact cleaner if only to rule it out.

    There is of course the added 'complication' of the dash change but that is not something that I can contribute to, uglysticks baby!
    Full of Hot air? Intercool yourself............ you know it makes sense

  11. #9

    Member #
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    Re: Need help with F1 light on my 99 guys

    Thanks Duck,
    You confirmed what I thought about Green wires being earths and not too bad if they get swapped a bit, if that's what I did?
    All the other coloured wires were done correctly, 100% sure there. It was just the Greens I had a question about.
    i think I should go back in and have a another look at the condition of those wires, you say you had to chop out up to 300mm? bloody hell.
    I didnt look at it that close, so maybe another look is in order? I didn't notice any blackening when I stripped them out either but I shall check.
    I didn't really see corrosion anywhere but only looked at it from the point of view of the connector, not so much the cable.
    The connector looked pretty clean to my eye.

    Duck are the wires at the rear of the tank the only Earths going back to the frame or do I need to look in other places too?
    I did put a bit of emery paper over those ones and thought they looked ok but I'll look there again too.

    Is WD40 a good enough cleaner for the job or should I be looking for another better product? I have some WD40 here.
    I've read about 'Dialectric Grease' .. Should I get some of this and should it be sprayed 'into' the ECM connectors?
    Do you just spray in and reconnect or should it then be wiped away and then reconnected?

    Once I go right through all this again and if i have no luck, I'll contact Uglystick and annoy him about what i did with the Zena on my dash

    Sorry for the dopey questions, appreciate you taking the time to answer.
    cheers
    Rockko


 

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