Compatible Rear Shock ?? - Discuss Compatible Rear Shock ?? on CBRXX, the ultimate on-line community for Honda motorcyclists. Read it in Suspension / Tires / Wheels / Brakes. (Discussion of Honda CBR 1100 XX Super Blackbird Forks, Shocks, Chains, Sprockets, Tires, Wheels, and Brakes.)

smurf211 · 07-01-2009, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BackStreet

I just put a progressive spring on mine and the stock shock is fine IMO.

If some other available shock is too short why not just make a longer bracket for the top mount?

You've just illustrated another solution. It's about endless. Good call.

Banshee · 07-01-2009, 8:23 PM

For me the stock spring was fine, but I found the valving too harsh. Replacing the OEM valve on the BB shock on my '98 with a Gold valve made a fantastic difference.

lois · 07-01-2009, 8:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shewie

Hmm. I think I understand what you're saying. I would have to have it in front of me to really get it. You say the stack is conical? So the shims are of progressivley smaller diameter as they get nearer the rod? I'm off to try to find some shock diagrams and see if I can get on the same page as you.

Scott.....maybe the best way to go in the long run might be with an adjustable unit....no offence to anyone, but doing up the stock unit sounds like you won't have many adj options .

Lois

shewie · 07-01-2009, 9:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lois

Scott.....maybe the best way to go in the long run might be with an adjustable unit....no offence to anyone, but doing up the stock unit sounds like you won't have many adj options .

Lois

I agree, but I am going to try to adjust my stock one and see if I can live with it. I'm not sure where the damping is set and if it has some more available it may be enough for me. If not, I guess the RR shock is the next step. I have to talk to smurf some more an dsee what else he's discovered.

lois · 07-01-2009, 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shewie

I agree, but I am going to try to adjust my stock one and see if I can live with it. I'm not sure where the damping is set and if it has some more available it may be enough for me. If not, I guess the RR shock is the next step. I have to talk to smurf some more an dsee what else he's discovered.

Ok then....so what does this mean...

>
There is something brewing on this topic. Stay tuned for another of smurf211's excellent write-ups. BTW, you may want to hold off on that, Lou, unless your Gixxer is boring you and you want to take your bird to the track. <

Lois

Banshee · 07-01-2009, 11:27 PM

Shewie, the only adjustments on the OEM shock are rebound damping adjust by a screw that you can see on the bottom of the left side where it is bolted into the triangle plates. And spring preload, by the 2 BMF locknuts on the top of the spring.

On my '98, I was quite happy with the OEM rebuilt with Gold valves, but in hindsight, I would have preferred more adjustability for when I my wife was pillioning. If you don't do track days, carry passengers & use the bike for the same type of riding all the time, (ie either weekend fun or commuting but not much of both), you could get away with the set & forget of the OEM overhauled.

If you want to be able to set it tot suit those times when you DO have a pillion, or go for a more spirited ride or hit the track, then a more adjustable unit will be better. That is where it gets harder to decide, do you go for a 900rr & rebuild it, or go whole hog & get the full aftermarket shock. By the time I totaled up all the costs & steps involved, my rebuilt 900rr probably cost me nearly as much as the cheapest possible aftermarket I could have bought from over there & had shipped out here, but that would have lacked the remote res. So over all I think I made the right choice. It also meant the spend was over a longer period, so cushioned the cost.

It's a real "What type of riding do you do & what do you want it to do?" sort of question.

smurf211 · 07-02-2009, 12:40 AM

Got the 900RR shock in today and took some stills next to the stock XX. I'll be discussing the options for both when I take her in for the front end. The RT springs showed up today as well. When I get the pricing for the rebuilds I will pass it along. One note John suggested that preload be adjusted for 1/4 in. showing on the threads. I took a picture of mine mounted on the bike. The other was the rebound, which is fully clockwise and then backed off a 1/3 of a turn. I should have an update in a couple of days.

That tube is spacer material that can be cut to length as required. The preload on the stock XX shock is not set per recommendation. Compare to the one on the bike.

The CBR900rr wet weight is 460 lbs. if your looking at the spring difference.

CiscoKid · 07-02-2009, 2:26 AM

Look at a Hagon do a search there is a recent post on it

shewie · 07-02-2009, 8:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lois

Ok then....so what does this mean...

>
There is something brewing on this topic. Stay tuned for another of smurf211's excellent write-ups. BTW, you may want to hold off on that, Lou, unless your Gixxer is boring you and you want to take your bird to the track. <

Lois

Smurf is currently noodling on what he is going to do with his. I'm sure you have noticed from his previous posts that he is quite thorough (and extremely anal, but don't tell him I said that) and will examine all the angles before he decides, including talking to Jaws, who is apparently an even greater Blackbird authority than is generally acknowledged around here.

Once his research is done I'm sure he'll let us know what he has decided on. Then he will post an excellent write-up which will include pics and source info (are you reading this, Steve?) so the rest of us can reap the rewards of all his hard work.

So you may want to hold off until you can take advantage of this research. Understand?

smurf211 · 07-03-2009, 12:28 AM

Too much for my own good sometimes. I will be talking / taking my bike in to the suspension guru on Tuesday in prep for the front forks. The team is taking the weekend off after a grueling week of Laguna Seca prep. I’ll be dropping off the front end parts and the two shocks and find out when he wants the bike. Plan on leaving it and we’ll dial it in when I pick it up.

I have had a chance to gather all of the information up on the Comp and Rebound GVs, the springs, etc and logged in and printed out the settings for the valves and actually had time to put it all together and read it. I was going to scan these and post them up but I've got a strange feeling about copy right stuff so I am just going to cliff note it and post it up.

Here's an interesting note: The work sheet for my rear shock actually calls for a slightly less rate than the stock. I also looked through some documentation from last November and the stock shock can be good to 250 lbs, depending on preload. Also, there is the following additional work that needs to be done.

Bleed hole: 1.0 mm #60, drill piston if required.
Tap body for 5x0.8 for Nitrogen valve (Schrader) SPNV 0512 for 285 PSI.
Recommended spring rate 16.5 kg/mm vs 16.8 kg/mm stock <<<<<<<<<
Adapter collar for spring
Shock preload 12 mm, rear end sag 32 mm
Rebound adjuster 1.5 turns out
Of course this is after all the mods.

The key to all of this is the Access Code on the GV doc you receive when your GV package arrives. After you enter in your settings and requirements it calculates a general setting level that you can ride on and should be pretty close. It will be up to the more discerning riders what tweaks they want to make.

I’ve got 11 pages of this and will go through and condense everything and put it on the fork post. The docs explain the shims, bleed holes, building the valves, torque, Loctite, etcetera.

I went out again this morning. Great time to mull all of this over. The playlist is finally dialed in, the GPS is showing what curves are coming up, a feature I hadn’t thought about, haven’t gotten a ticket yet, and I laughed thinking after I beat this to death I’ll probably end up with a Penske on the back like everyone else. More later….

shewie · 07-03-2009, 9:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Banshee

It's a real "What type of riding do you do & what do you want it to do?" sort of question.

Sorry Banshee, I missed replying to this due to a sudden flurry of pm's..

I don't do any pillioning other than the occasional spin with one of my kids, and for those the suspension setup is irrelevant.

I'm kind of ashamed to say it, but the majority, by far, of my riding is what could only loosely be refered to as 'spirited'. The local constabulary would call it "dangerous stunting" because anything more than 50km/h above the posted limit is now considered stunt driving here in the big O. Okay, okay, I know I ride like an a-hole, but I don't smoke or do drugs, I drink very little, I don't eat a lot of crappy food or skydive.

My point is that I would quite likely be satisfied with one setting, provided that setting is able to keep up with my riding style.

Banshee · 07-03-2009, 8:02 PM

That being the case, you could probably get the OEM rebuilt with a Gold valve or similar, (by JAWS or a local specialist), to suit you & be perfectly happy with how much better it is. I know I was when I had that done on my '98.

My riding on the other hand could only be refarred to as "conservative"

as I am basically commuting and it's either suburban or motorway. No twisties to speak of on my normal route.

Mind you, on this one, I have a rebuilt 900rr & I find with my son on the back (~20-25kg), one extra notch on the spring preload & an extra quarter turn on the compression damping makes the bike free like he isn't there.

shewie · 07-03-2009, 9:50 PM

Okay, I guess my next step (after some more fiddling with stock) is to find a local suspension guru. To the best of my knowledge, this person should be easily located by looking somewhere over the rainbow at the end of the yellow brick road. I may be looking at buying a used unit and sending it to Jaws.

Banshee · 07-04-2009, 2:49 AM

I found a good one locally, by checking in AMCN, (Oz bike mag), & by speaking to local (trusted) shop. I'm sure you could find similar info close to home.

X1rider · 07-04-2009, 7:04 AM

I used the early CBR900RR shock on my 02 for 30000 miles. Had the valve rebuild, the heavy duty spring from Race Tech (don't know if it is still available, I think Eibach made it for them) and the nitrogen gas cartridge refilled with the schrader valve kit. I spent $100.00 USD for the shock from a junk yard, and had the other work done for $250.00 including parts. It worked great for 20000 miles, then would fade when I started to really push hard riding in the mountains. If you can swing it-somehow-get a Penske shock from these guys: Penske Shocks
When I placed my order, I spent $795.00 and waited 5 weeks. The unit arrived and I had to drop the inner fender to route the gas cylinder, but oh my gosh, what a difference it made. I now had a new bike I had to re learn to ride! The shock was so perfectly set up for my weight and riding style, I have never had to adjust it. I will be bumping up the pre load on the spring soon however, since adding the factory bags with stuff in them has affected the ride a bit.

Look around salvage yards and talk to other rider/fabricators. You can come up with something, if you want it bad enough.

X1rider · 07-04-2009, 7:07 AM

BTW, I mounted the reservoir for the 900RR shock under the battery box by drilling a few holes in the plastic and wrapped the shock in tool drawer rubber mat (perforated) and attached it with 1/4" zip ties.

shewie · 07-04-2009, 9:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X1rider

I used the early CBR900RR shock on my 02

<snip>

It worked great for 20000 miles, then would fade when I started to really push hard riding in the mountains.

Would it fade under hard riding, or had it slowly faded over time and only became noticeable when you were twisting it? If I can get 20k of good riding out of it before it needed another rebuild I think that would be acceptable to me.

I just can't justify the $1200+ for the Penske right now, so it's either spend a few huns or nothing at all.

CanadianBird · 07-04-2009, 9:30 AM

Shewie, did I miss something, I didn't pay $1,200 for my Penske. Less than $800 Can. However, spend "whatever" b/c when the rear is "pooched" it's a lousy ride and very frustrating. Cheers, when I win tonights lotto, I'll help you out.

shewie · 07-04-2009, 9:42 AM

Thanks, CB, I'll keep my eyes on the mailbox for your shipment! As for the price, I have been able to find no one who will sell it to me for 800 bucks, but even if I could, it would still be too much as I am not that unhappy with the stocker. As I said earlier, it is only under the most extreme situations that I find the stock unit's limits.

smurf211 · 07-04-2009, 9:43 AM

I stumbled onto this page: Penske 8983 "Double Clicker" Racing Shock, Honda

The stocker, as long as preload and rebound are adjusted properly and there aren't any internal problems is fairly adequate. I am really curious to see what the projected 900rr mods are going to cost.

Banshee, Nutter, can you guys refresh our memory on general cost to have your 900rr done so we can use it as a comparison when I come home with numbers on Tuesday?

Nutter67 · 07-04-2009, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smurf211

I stumbled onto this page: Penske 8983 "Double Clicker" Racing Shock, Honda

The stocker, as long as preload and rebound are adjusted properly and there aren't any internal problems is fairly adequate. I am really curious to see what the projected 900rr mods are going to cost.

Banshee, Nutter, can you guys refresh our memory on general cost to have your 900rr done so we can use it as a comparison when I come home with numbers on Tuesday?

Mine was about US$35 for the shock, and a bit more than that for shipping. The rebuild of the shock was $AU515.00 which included a full rebuild and revalve, Eibach spring and an extended braided line for the remote reservoir, fitting and setup for my weight.

I also had the front done at the same time with K-Tech components - including 20SSK cartridges, 1.0kg springs and 2.5wt oil.

All up, front and rear cost a total of AU$1215.00

smurf211 · 07-04-2009, 11:01 AM

For the shock:

Live rates at 2009.07.04 13:53:54 UTC 515.00 AUD = 411.227 USD

Australia Dollars United States Dollars 1 AUD = 0.798499 USD 1 USD = 1.25235 AUD

Total:

1,215.00 AUD = 970.176 USD

Australia Dollars United States Dollars 1 AUD = 0.798499 USD 1 USD = 1.25235 AUD

For the front end:

~558.949 USN oooppps I mean USD

XE - The World's Favorite Currency and Foreign Exchange Site

Banshee · 07-04-2009, 7:06 PM

Yes, I use XE for checking currency rates as well.

Nutter's prices are about the same as what I spent for front & rear. The 900rr was ~$80AUD delivered from the US. (About half the price was shipping.)

With the extended hose to the res I have it mounted just above the handle for lifting the bike onto the CS.

smurf211 · 07-05-2009, 9:59 AM

I realized over the last few days that I got a little excited about the price of these shocks. I have the Edlebrock EAS shocks on my Quad Cab 4x4 and thought they were steep at $90 a corner. The shock (

) has subsided somewhat and although I am going to finish the research in options and pricing, unless the 900rr is a good deal, I'll probably bite the bullet and go with the Penske double. I've gotten a couple of PMs from gents that I have a lot of respect for and that seems the way to go. I'll just have to budget for it for now and make do with what I've got in the meantime. More later......

shewie · 07-05-2009, 1:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smurf211

I'll probably bite the bullet and go with the Penske double. I've gotten a couple of PMs from gents that I have a lot of respect for and that seems the way to go. I'll just have to budget for it for now and make do with what I've got in the meantime. More later......

Duplicitous 'ho'.

smurf211 · 07-05-2009, 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shewie

Duplicitous 'ho'.

Who you calling ho ? I thought that belonged in another thread??? Not intentionally. Just didn't accept the justification for the cost initially. I'm more interested in getting my forks dialed in this week and then we'll focus on the rear. I will gather the information from my suspension guy and pass his recommendations along. If I can come in for half of Penske by going with 900 rebuild I'll advise. But if it gets close I'll just have to look around here some more and find something to unload on eBay. Whatever happens it's not going to be until Sept/ Oct due to another stay in the prison farm scheduled for the 23rd. Getting my stomach fixed so I'll be out of commission for a while. Kuato will be history.

shewie · 07-05-2009, 10:49 PM

It's okay, I'll buy that old 900 shock off you for 20 bucks. There is no way I can justify the cost of the Penske, particularly after today.

Is Kuato telling you that you should buy the Penske?

smurf211 · 07-06-2009, 6:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shewie

It's okay, I'll buy that old 900 shock off you for 20 bucks. There is no way I can justify the cost of the Penske, particularly after today.

Is Kuato telling you that you should buy the Penske?

If I could I'd place a round from my TRP right between Kuato's eyes.

smurf211 · 07-07-2009, 7:38 PM

Took the bike in today for the fork work and broke off into a discussion about the shocks, I explained that we as a group were looking at the alternatives and pricing options. Here’s what he came up with:

Option A was the stock shock.
General consensus was why bother. Just set the preload and the rebound and go with it until you could move up. This gent works with another well known group that works suspension regularly and the stocker is very seldom modified.

Option B is the CBR 900 RR shock. New spring and rework / valve for about $350. This would prove to be a decent interim. It would be up to the rider to ascertain if it was performing for them adequately.

Option C was a new one (to me). Apparently in a cost savings effort, the most common settings for the 8983 were determined and the compression value was to be preset. This was the Penske Sport option offering and would have to be built per rider with a cost of $600. For me, if I am already at this level I would go ahead and go with the next option.

And then Option D is the Penske double clicker 8983. He said he could have one built for me for $785. He offered a group buy of sorts if I could get 10 of us together he could get a reduction to $745 w/o shipping. With the economy in its current state I told him I would let you guys know but we would see.

Then there are the higher end 8987 and the Ohlins rig for about $1100 as the top shelf selections. You should probably talk to TigerST about these as he has personal experience with the Ohlins and is qualified to provide some real world feedback.

I asked with all this aside what was the best avenue and he said if you’re really on a budget go with the RR rebuild but if you can swing it get the 8983. The amount of engineering that goes into these is very high and they are custom built per individual rider specifications in regard to spring rate, environment type, which affects valve / shim setup, etc. Your specific information is obtained and the shock is built accordingly, similar to the front fork parameters needed for proper setup, which helps explains cost.

smurf211 · 07-08-2009, 12:00 AM

I emailed Racetech and requested rebuild / respring info for the 93/94 900RR shock. Will advise.

07-01-2009, 8:23 PM	#32
Banshee Join Date: Jun 21 2007 Location: Springwood, West of Hell (Sydney), Australia Age: 43 Posts: 1,078	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? For me the stock spring was fine, but I found the valving too harsh. Replacing the OEM valve on the BB shock on my '98 with a Gold valve made a fantastic difference.

07-01-2009, 11:27 PM	#36
Banshee Join Date: Jun 21 2007 Location: Springwood, West of Hell (Sydney), Australia Age: 43 Posts: 1,078	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Shewie, the only adjustments on the OEM shock are rebound damping adjust by a screw that you can see on the bottom of the left side where it is bolted into the triangle plates. And spring preload, by the 2 BMF locknuts on the top of the spring. On my '98, I was quite happy with the OEM rebuilt with Gold valves, but in hindsight, I would have preferred more adjustability for when I my wife was pillioning. If you don't do track days, carry passengers & use the bike for the same type of riding all the time, (ie either weekend fun or commuting but not much of both), you could get away with the set & forget of the OEM overhauled. If you want to be able to set it tot suit those times when you DO have a pillion, or go for a more spirited ride or hit the track, then a more adjustable unit will be better. That is where it gets harder to decide, do you go for a 900rr & rebuild it, or go whole hog & get the full aftermarket shock. By the time I totaled up all the costs & steps involved, my rebuilt 900rr probably cost me nearly as much as the cheapest possible aftermarket I could have bought from over there & had shipped out here, but that would have lacked the remote res. So over all I think I made the right choice. It also meant the spend was over a longer period, so cushioned the cost. It's a real "What type of riding do you do & what do you want it to do?" sort of question.

07-02-2009, 2:26 AM	#38
CiscoKid Join Date: Sep 07 2008 Location: Port Moody BC Posts: 188	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Look at a Hagon do a search there is a recent post on it

07-03-2009, 12:28 AM	#40
smurf211 Join Date: Oct 19 2008 Location: 575, GA Posts: 1,067	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Too much for my own good sometimes. I will be talking / taking my bike in to the suspension guru on Tuesday in prep for the front forks. The team is taking the weekend off after a grueling week of Laguna Seca prep. I’ll be dropping off the front end parts and the two shocks and find out when he wants the bike. Plan on leaving it and we’ll dial it in when I pick it up. I have had a chance to gather all of the information up on the Comp and Rebound GVs, the springs, etc and logged in and printed out the settings for the valves and actually had time to put it all together and read it. I was going to scan these and post them up but I've got a strange feeling about copy right stuff so I am just going to cliff note it and post it up. Here's an interesting note: The work sheet for my rear shock actually calls for a slightly less rate than the stock. I also looked through some documentation from last November and the stock shock can be good to 250 lbs, depending on preload. Also, there is the following additional work that needs to be done. Bleed hole: 1.0 mm #60, drill piston if required. Tap body for 5x0.8 for Nitrogen valve (Schrader) SPNV 0512 for 285 PSI. Recommended spring rate 16.5 kg/mm vs 16.8 kg/mm stock <<<<<<<<< Adapter collar for spring Shock preload 12 mm, rear end sag 32 mm Rebound adjuster 1.5 turns out Of course this is after all the mods. The key to all of this is the Access Code on the GV doc you receive when your GV package arrives. After you enter in your settings and requirements it calculates a general setting level that you can ride on and should be pretty close. It will be up to the more discerning riders what tweaks they want to make. I’ve got 11 pages of this and will go through and condense everything and put it on the fork post. The docs explain the shims, bleed holes, building the valves, torque, Loctite, etcetera. I went out again this morning. Great time to mull all of this over. The playlist is finally dialed in, the GPS is showing what curves are coming up, a feature I hadn’t thought about, haven’t gotten a ticket yet, and I laughed thinking after I beat this to death I’ll probably end up with a Penske on the back like everyone else. More later….

07-03-2009, 8:02 PM	#42
Banshee Join Date: Jun 21 2007 Location: Springwood, West of Hell (Sydney), Australia Age: 43 Posts: 1,078	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? That being the case, you could probably get the OEM rebuilt with a Gold valve or similar, (by JAWS or a local specialist), to suit you & be perfectly happy with how much better it is. I know I was when I had that done on my '98. My riding on the other hand could only be refarred to as "conservative" as I am basically commuting and it's either suburban or motorway. No twisties to speak of on my normal route. Mind you, on this one, I have a rebuilt 900rr & I find with my son on the back (~20-25kg), one extra notch on the spring preload & an extra quarter turn on the compression damping makes the bike free like he isn't there.

07-03-2009, 9:50 PM	#43
shewie Resident Eh?hole. Join Date: Oct 26 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada Age: 43 Posts: 5,653	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Okay, I guess my next step (after some more fiddling with stock) is to find a local suspension guru. To the best of my knowledge, this person should be easily located by looking somewhere over the rainbow at the end of the yellow brick road. I may be looking at buying a used unit and sending it to Jaws. __________________ If you don't like the way I ride then stay off the sidewalk.

07-04-2009, 2:49 AM	#44
Banshee Join Date: Jun 21 2007 Location: Springwood, West of Hell (Sydney), Australia Age: 43 Posts: 1,078	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? I found a good one locally, by checking in AMCN, (Oz bike mag), & by speaking to local (trusted) shop. I'm sure you could find similar info close to home.

07-04-2009, 7:04 AM	#45
X1rider Carbon spewing infidel Join Date: Nov 24 2006 Location: Metro Atlanta GA. Age: 52 Posts: 1,873	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? I used the early CBR900RR shock on my 02 for 30000 miles. Had the valve rebuild, the heavy duty spring from Race Tech (don't know if it is still available, I think Eibach made it for them) and the nitrogen gas cartridge refilled with the schrader valve kit. I spent $100.00 USD for the shock from a junk yard, and had the other work done for $250.00 including parts. It worked great for 20000 miles, then would fade when I started to really push hard riding in the mountains. If you can swing it-somehow-get a Penske shock from these guys: Penske Shocks When I placed my order, I spent $795.00 and waited 5 weeks. The unit arrived and I had to drop the inner fender to route the gas cylinder, but oh my gosh, what a difference it made. I now had a new bike I had to re learn to ride! The shock was so perfectly set up for my weight and riding style, I have never had to adjust it. I will be bumping up the pre load on the spring soon however, since adding the factory bags with stuff in them has affected the ride a bit. Look around salvage yards and talk to other rider/fabricators. You can come up with something, if you want it bad enough.

07-04-2009, 7:07 AM	#46
X1rider Carbon spewing infidel Join Date: Nov 24 2006 Location: Metro Atlanta GA. Age: 52 Posts: 1,873	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? BTW, I mounted the reservoir for the 900RR shock under the battery box by drilling a few holes in the plastic and wrapped the shock in tool drawer rubber mat (perforated) and attached it with 1/4" zip ties.

07-04-2009, 9:30 AM	#48
CanadianBird Join Date: Nov 25 2006 Location: BC Canada Posts: 4,403	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Shewie, did I miss something, I didn't pay $1,200 for my Penske. Less than $800 Can. However, spend "whatever" b/c when the rear is "pooched" it's a lousy ride and very frustrating. Cheers, when I win tonights lotto, I'll help you out.

07-04-2009, 9:42 AM	#49
shewie Resident Eh?hole. Join Date: Oct 26 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada Age: 43 Posts: 5,653	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Thanks, CB, I'll keep my eyes on the mailbox for your shipment! As for the price, I have been able to find no one who will sell it to me for 800 bucks, but even if I could, it would still be too much as I am not that unhappy with the stocker. As I said earlier, it is only under the most extreme situations that I find the stock unit's limits. __________________ If you don't like the way I ride then stay off the sidewalk.

07-04-2009, 9:43 AM	#50
smurf211 Join Date: Oct 19 2008 Location: 575, GA Posts: 1,067	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? I stumbled onto this page: Penske 8983 "Double Clicker" Racing Shock, Honda The stocker, as long as preload and rebound are adjusted properly and there aren't any internal problems is fairly adequate. I am really curious to see what the projected 900rr mods are going to cost. Banshee, Nutter, can you guys refresh our memory on general cost to have your 900rr done so we can use it as a comparison when I come home with numbers on Tuesday?

07-04-2009, 11:01 AM	#52
smurf211 Join Date: Oct 19 2008 Location: 575, GA Posts: 1,067	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? For the shock: Live rates at 2009.07.04 13:53:54 UTC 515.00 AUD = 411.227 USD Australia Dollars United States Dollars 1 AUD = 0.798499 USD 1 USD = 1.25235 AUD Total: 1,215.00 AUD = 970.176 USD Australia Dollars United States Dollars 1 AUD = 0.798499 USD 1 USD = 1.25235 AUD For the front end: ~558.949 USN oooppps I mean USD XE - The World's Favorite Currency and Foreign Exchange Site

07-04-2009, 7:06 PM	#53
Banshee Join Date: Jun 21 2007 Location: Springwood, West of Hell (Sydney), Australia Age: 43 Posts: 1,078	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Yes, I use XE for checking currency rates as well. Nutter's prices are about the same as what I spent for front & rear. The 900rr was ~$80AUD delivered from the US. (About half the price was shipping.) With the extended hose to the res I have it mounted just above the handle for lifting the bike onto the CS.

07-05-2009, 9:59 AM	#54
smurf211 Join Date: Oct 19 2008 Location: 575, GA Posts: 1,067	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? I realized over the last few days that I got a little excited about the price of these shocks. I have the Edlebrock EAS shocks on my Quad Cab 4x4 and thought they were steep at $90 a corner. The shock () has subsided somewhat and although I am going to finish the research in options and pricing, unless the 900rr is a good deal, I'll probably bite the bullet and go with the Penske double. I've gotten a couple of PMs from gents that I have a lot of respect for and that seems the way to go. I'll just have to budget for it for now and make do with what I've got in the meantime. More later......

07-05-2009, 10:49 PM	#57
shewie Resident Eh?hole. Join Date: Oct 26 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada Age: 43 Posts: 5,653	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? It's okay, I'll buy that old 900 shock off you for 20 bucks. There is no way I can justify the cost of the Penske, particularly after today. Is Kuato telling you that you should buy the Penske? __________________ If you don't like the way I ride then stay off the sidewalk.

07-07-2009, 7:38 PM	#59
smurf211 Join Date: Oct 19 2008 Location: 575, GA Posts: 1,067	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? Took the bike in today for the fork work and broke off into a discussion about the shocks, I explained that we as a group were looking at the alternatives and pricing options. Here’s what he came up with: Option A was the stock shock. General consensus was why bother. Just set the preload and the rebound and go with it until you could move up. This gent works with another well known group that works suspension regularly and the stocker is very seldom modified. Option B is the CBR 900 RR shock. New spring and rework / valve for about $350. This would prove to be a decent interim. It would be up to the rider to ascertain if it was performing for them adequately. Option C was a new one (to me). Apparently in a cost savings effort, the most common settings for the 8983 were determined and the compression value was to be preset. This was the Penske Sport option offering and would have to be built per rider with a cost of $600. For me, if I am already at this level I would go ahead and go with the next option. And then Option D is the Penske double clicker 8983. He said he could have one built for me for $785. He offered a group buy of sorts if I could get 10 of us together he could get a reduction to $745 w/o shipping. With the economy in its current state I told him I would let you guys know but we would see. Then there are the higher end 8987 and the Ohlins rig for about $1100 as the top shelf selections. You should probably talk to TigerST about these as he has personal experience with the Ohlins and is qualified to provide some real world feedback. I asked with all this aside what was the best avenue and he said if you’re really on a budget go with the RR rebuild but if you can swing it get the 8983. The amount of engineering that goes into these is very high and they are custom built per individual rider specifications in regard to spring rate, environment type, which affects valve / shim setup, etc. Your specific information is obtained and the shock is built accordingly, similar to the front fork parameters needed for proper setup, which helps explains cost.

07-08-2009, 12:00 AM	#60
smurf211 Join Date: Oct 19 2008 Location: 575, GA Posts: 1,067	Re: Compatible Rear Shock ?? I emailed Racetech and requested rebuild / respring info for the 93/94 900RR shock. Will advise. Last edited by smurf211; 07-08-2009 at 7:06 PM.

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