How do you install the Pro-oiler?

bugeater · 11-28-2006, 3:00 AM

Okay, quite a few of us picked up a pro-oiler in the group buy. Now how do you install it?

The manual does tell you how to install it in general terms, but exactly which wires do we need to tap (colour and location), how are we supposed to do this and importantly, how do we get to these wires? The less bodywork removal the better. I know some of you guys have already installed pro-oilers - can you pass on your wisdom?

Thanks,
Marty

Warchild · 11-28-2006, 3:13 AM

HEY! Half of the fun is figuring out the best way to install it by yourself!

In all seriousness... on my first Pro-Oiler, since I already had a Sigma cyclometer, I just used the existing magnet and the Pro-Oiler's reed sensor pick-up to serve as the "distance traveled" input to the controller.

However, when I install it on my 2002 XX, I'll go ahead and tap into the bike's stock speedo system.

You will need to remove the fuel tank to get at the speedo sensor wires properly. They resides on top of the transmission, towards the left (as you sit on the bike), encased with other connectors within a large rubber boot.

While the 3P connectors themselves are white (actually, more like an opaque-yellow), the wires on harness side of plug should be black/brown (+) and green/black (-).

The wire colors on the sensor side of connector should be pink (+) and green/black (-).

bugeater · 11-28-2006, 3:23 AM

Hmmm... sounds difficult. Fortunately I do have a Hayne's manual which will hopefully help with removing the tank, though I must say I found the descriptions rather confusing. I've also got images in my head of pressurised fuel spraying everywhere.

No pain, no gain I suppose.

It does need to go in for it's 5000 km service very soon. I wonder if I could get the shop guys to tap it while they are "under the hood". Not sure how much I could trust them though.

Warchild · 11-28-2006, 4:01 AM

Here, mate, see if these photos clarify things a bit:

With the tank removed, look towards the left side of the transmission (as you sit on the bike), and locate the large coolant hose coming off the rear of the engine block (where the thermostat resides). The big rubber boot housing a number of connectors is just towards the left of that coolant hose:

Click image for larger version

Name: RubberBoot.jpg
Views: 99
Size: 102.7 KB
ID: 552

Peel back the rubber boot to expose the various connectors. The 3P connector is shown below... note the pink/green/black wires (coming in from the top) that are from the sensor side of the connector:

Click image for larger version

Name: 3PConnector.jpg
Views: 114
Size: 98.7 KB
ID: 553

Does this help?

OZDave · 11-28-2006, 6:37 AM

You don't need to remove the tank. Just prop up the back end.
Do you still need me to post photos on the Aussie site?

WestOzBird · 11-28-2006, 8:31 AM

Sorry bug, said the wires were purple, not pink.

Warchild · 11-28-2006, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OZDave

You don't need to remove the tank. Just prop up the back end.

True. I just find it easier to work in this area with the tank out of the way. It also allows you to examine this part of the engine bay for anything that might be amiss, check for any engine leaks, etc.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OZDave

Do you still need me to post photos on the Aussie site?

No need, m8, I already posted 'em there. Thanks muchly anyway...

bugeater · 11-29-2006, 7:09 AM

Thanks for that. It certainly helps with the photos.

DanS · 12-02-2006, 2:57 PM

Where are you guys putting the plastic container which holds the oil? I was thinking about the cross brace on the swingarm, but it looks stupid down there. It won't fit under the seat. I dunno...

XXRider · 12-02-2006, 6:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanS

Where are you guys putting the plastic container which holds the oil? I was thinking about the cross brace on the swingarm, but it looks stupid down there. It won't fit under the seat. I dunno...

Take off the rear cowl and try and mount it agenst the subframe... Seen it mounted there at some point.

OZDave · 12-02-2006, 6:57 PM

I mounted mine down the righthand side of the rear cowl. It fitted in the rear of the under seat space but I wanted to keep that clear.

DanS · 12-03-2006, 12:20 PM

When hooking up to the digital speedo, do you need to bring both the pink(+) and green/black(-) wires to the junction box if you are taking a - wire from the taillight to the box. The diagram says to bring the speedo sensor wire ( I assume the positive pink wire) into position #1, and leave position #2 empty. Can I run the speedo Green/Black wire and my negative ground wire from my taillights into position #9? My instructions also say that in the junction box #7 is pump out and #8 is pump out...shouldn't one of those be pump in? I so confused.

XXTi · 12-03-2006, 8:07 PM

My Pro-Oiler is one of the older units that uses the reed switch and magnet system. Here's where I mounted things.

Click image for larger version

Name: Pro-Oiler Under Seat.JPG
Views: 124
Size: 144.3 KB
ID: 605

The oil bottle works great there. It fits easily under the bar and is easy to fill. I fill it about 3/4 full and have no leaks.

Click image for larger version

Name: Pro-oiler Controller.JPG
Views: 100
Size: 144.4 KB
ID: 606

OZDave · 12-04-2006, 8:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DanS

When hooking up to the digital speedo, do you need to bring both the pink(+) and green/black(-) wires to the junction box if you are taking a - wire from the taillight to the box. The diagram says to bring the speedo sensor wire ( I assume the positive pink wire) into position #1, and leave position #2 empty. Can I run the speedo Green/Black wire and my negative ground wire from my taillights into position #9? My instructions also say that in the junction box #7 is pump out and #8 is pump out...shouldn't one of those be pump in? I so confused.

You only need the signal wire from the speed sensor connected.(To terminal 1) Position 2 is for the reed sensor and is not needed for the hall effect speed sensor (leave it empty.) The pump wires can be connected any way...2 wires to 9 and 10. It is not polarity sensitive.
Connect the earth to any frame ground. The power can come from any switched power.
I hope this helps. Ask any question you need to. I've got mine working.

A little side story: Mine wouldn't work when I had finished connecting it up. Big panic and much wailing and gnashing of teeth. I finally traced it to the fuse in the junction box. One fuse holder end had spread slightly and the other end had held it perfectly centered in the tiny gap. I squeesed it closed and all was well.
My correction factor was 12.66 and I'm trying table 13. Anyone have any opinions/comments on this?

Warchild · 12-04-2006, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OZDave

My correction factor was 12.66 and I'm trying table 13. Anyone have any opinions/comments on this?

I was using Table 10 when I had my first Pro-Oiler, and admittedly I was over-lubing a noticeable amount (this was done on purpose, due to the nature of how I was using the bike - primarily high-speed runs (very high speeds) out in the Nevada desert, therefore it was quite dusty in addition to the high speeds (speeds the result in gas mileage in the low 20's

)

Assuming the same flow levels as the first generation Pro-Oiler, I might wonder if Table 13 might be a pinch too lean. I could be wrong here... please keep us informed how that Table works out for you.

DanS · 12-06-2006, 11:58 AM

Hey Jim! (XXTi)...I saw the location of where you put your oil bottle for the pro-oiler. I put mine in the same locationl,but when I put the seat back on it interfered. There are a couple of plastic tabs that go under that bar when you put the seat back on. Have you put your seat back on yet? I think the bottle with this pro-oiler is not very good. I am going to design something else out of PVC pipe. I have corbin bags on my bike, so putting the bottle inside the rear cowling would be a pain in the butt, everytime I have to fill it with oil....

XXTi · 12-06-2006, 1:47 PM

I've been running mine like that for several months with no problems. I have a Corbin seat, so that may explain the difference.

DanS · 12-09-2006, 10:09 PM

I had a very difficult time finding a place for the bottle supplied with the pro-oiler kit, so this is what I did. I had to buy a battery for some Trimble surveying equipment Friday, and the battery came with electrolyte in a plastic container with six sections. It had two sets of sections where the fluid could go back and forth. I cut two of the sections off and they fit in the bike perfectly and they are also slanted downward so the oil will flow to the front. It worked very well.

DanS · 12-12-2006, 12:41 AM

I am very impressed with the Pro-oiler. It sure is nice to continually feel the smooth ride from a well lubricated chain. I commute 150 miles a day and a few times before I had the auto oiler, the chain got real dry and you could feel more vibration and the chain got loose more often. If you guys haven't installed one, I would highly recommend it.

Warchild · 12-12-2006, 10:30 AM

The Pro-Oiler is a godsend to us Endurance Riders. When you're cranking out 1500 miles within a 24 hour time limit, you don't want to have to dink around lubing the chain during your fueling stops. You just want to refuel, pee, refill your water bottles and get back on the road.

What makes the Pro-Oiler particularly killer is the way you can adjust the flow rate on-the-fly, and prevailing road conditions dictate.

Running through a rain storm or forcing your way through a desert sandstorm? Just dial-up the Pro-Oiler right from the cockpit. Once conditions are back to "normal", just dial it back down to its normal setting. Sweet.

BIRDRUNNER · 04-15-2007, 2:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warchild

Here, mate, see if these photos clarify things a bit:

With the tank removed, look towards the left side of the transmission (as you sit on the bike), and locate the large coolant hose coming off the rear of the engine block (where the thermostat resides). The big rubber boot housing a number of connectors is just towards the left of that coolant hose:

Attachment 552

Peel back the rubber boot to expose the various connectors. The 3P connector is shown below... note the pink/green/black wires (coming in from the top) that are from the sensor side of the connector:

Attachment 553

Does this help?

OK, I'm having troubles. I hooked up to the PINK wire, is the the correct one?

Doing the EMI check, I can get my controller is going into signal count mode, but as soon as I start the engine it starts doing crazy things......... Flashes a #3, then a #12, then it locks on "E7". (playing with the +- changes the numbers at this point.)

Did anybody else have this?

I've mounted the junction box on the LEFT side of where the battery is. I grounded the unit to where the other grounds from the Tank etc go to the frame (also on the left side.).

DanS · 04-15-2007, 1:15 PM

When you turn your key on it automatically goes through the program and flashes the different values you have it programmed to. The final value it lands on is what you can change on the fly.

BIRDRUNNER · 04-15-2007, 4:43 PM

Figured out the speedo thing.

The latest problem was an intemitent poIwer supply.

I'd checked the fuse, and it's fine.

After several hours of frustration, I reached to move the junction box, when I touched the fuse, it rattled. Turns out the fuse was not tight in the holders.

Pushed the fuse in better and VOILA. I guess it'd be easier if I owned a voltmeter thingy. But anyways, I've got the electronics working fine. Did I say I hate shit like this.

I'm just doing the plumbing now.

Truthfully, if it hadn't been for the fuse/electrical gremlin, this wouldn't really be a big deal to put in.

kiwimack · 04-18-2007, 3:42 PM

what was the speedo thing I have the same issue