Blackbird Fork Removal

Dragonslayer · 11-23-2006, 1:35 AM

Okay,
With me taking part in the Group Buy on the suspension I am having the forks gone through and need some advice on the best way to support the front of the bike. I have a 6mm shim in the rear so unless I hang the rear tire off the of the slab in my garage I am not sure how to go about getting the forks off the bike.

I have looked at the bike and it appears that the forks will not come out of the trees without elevating the front higher to allow enough ground clrearance to slide them out the bottom. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Toynut · 11-23-2006, 8:23 AM

Here ya go!

This stand works quite well and is very quick to put together.

FJR1300 Front End Support Stand

This might be a good "Sticky" in the Tech section, IMHO.

Toynut · 11-23-2006, 9:03 AM

One thing!
I added sections of split foam pipe insulation to my uprights, to protect my bike's paint/pretty bits, just in case!

ConqSoft · 11-23-2006, 9:04 AM

Does a Pitbull Stem Stand give enough clearance to remove them?

When I have mine up on the Pit Bull Rear and Front stands, it looks like there's enough room, but I've never tried removing the forks.

tripledigits · 11-23-2006, 9:57 AM

You don't need a stand. Put your centerstand down (you do have one?) and support the oil pan with a jack. You'll have enough clearance to get the fork legs out. You can even jack some droop out of the rear suspension if you like. I recommend placing a 2x4 between the jack and the pan.

Pete-in-PA · 11-23-2006, 10:10 AM

Can also remove the tank and use tie downs from the frame to the ceiling joists in your garage/basement.

Remember you can always put the center stand on a wood plank for more clearance.

Once you remove the front wheel you have an extra 7 inches to slide out the forks.

Dragonslayer · 11-23-2006, 1:18 PM

Thanks for all the input guys. I have used the block of wood under the centerstand with a floor jack for tire changes but was a little concerned since it will have to be apart for than an hour or so.

Warchild · 11-23-2006, 1:42 PM

If you have the stock exhaust, you can place the scissors jack underneath the more forward portion of the header pipes (stay a good 3"-4" aft of where the header pipes start to bend upward toward the cylinder head).

You'll obviously want to used an appropriately-sized block of 2x4 wood between the sissors jack and the pipes to distribute the weight-bearing load equally among the pipes. Me, I went a step further and used several pieces of fairly dense foam in between the block of wood and the pipes, partly to help protect the pipe finish, but mostly to further help disperse the weight-bearing forces.

Quote:

Does a Pitbull Stem Stand give enough clearance to remove them?

Most definitely, as seen here:

r2t2 · 11-23-2006, 2:22 PM

Hey Dale... Is that pic of the Pitbull with the triple trees on or off the bike... Since I see that you have a rag between the fairing and the pittbull, I'm guessing the the triple trees are out??? The reason I ask is that I'm gonna do the tapered roller bearings while the forks are out...

Warchild · 11-23-2006, 2:58 PM

No, the triple tree is installed in that photo. It's the only way to use the front Pit Bull stands (as shown) in order to remove the forks. I had placed the rag in there just as a precaution to protect the paint on the underside of the nose. It's a snug, snug fit in there.

Re: tapered bearings. No, there are two reasons why you must use either the scissors-jack technique or some other way to suspend the front end while installing the tapered bearings:

1) Since the triple tree must (obviously) be removed to install the set of tapered bearings, there is nothing for the Pit Bull steering head adapter to fit into. Ergo, no Pit Bull stand can be used.

2) You need full, unhindered access to the lower steering stem race in order to bang it out of the steering neck recess. So again, this precludes using the Pit Bull stand method to lift the front end.

r2t2 · 11-23-2006, 9:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warchild

No, the triple tree is installed in that photo. It's the only way to use the front Pit Bull stands (as shown) in order to remove the forks. I had placed the rag in there just as a precaution to protect the paint on the underside of the nose. It's a snug, snug fit in there.

Re: tapered bearings. No, there are two reasons why you must use either the scissors-jack technique or some other way to suspend the front end while installing the tapered bearings:

1) Since the triple tree must (obviously) be removed to install the set of tapered bearings, there is nothing for the Pit Bull steering head adapter to fit into. Ergo, no Pit Bull stand can be used.

2) You need full, unhindered access to the lower steering stem race in order to bang it out of the steering neck recess. So again, this precludes using the Pit Bull stand method to lift the front end.

Thanks Dale... I guess I was thinking that the pitbull could be used while the bearings were out. I figured that I could do some of the other stuff that way... Looks like I'll do the bearings and the I'll be able to use the pitbull to support the bike for the remaining maint.

BrianR · 11-23-2006, 9:50 PM

I don't know what your garage situation is but some time ago I cut an access hole in my garage ceiling (I needed to store crap up there anyway). Then I put a 4X6 wood crossmember between the joists (spanning four Joists). I put some chain around that which I can tuck up into the hole then found a chain hoist that I use to lift stuff whether a bike front end or anything else heavy.

I put a 1X4 wood frame on the hole and cut two pieces of plywood to fit in the hole (with insulation stapled to the back.. That way when I use the chail hoist for extended periods of time I can slip the two pieces of plywood almost back into place (around the chain which is sticking out the hole to hold the chain hoist) so I maintain as much of the thermal character of the ceiling as possible.

Works like a real champ. You can not see the chain hoist in this pic but you can see the chain pull for control. Nice thing is I can adjust height in minute increments for assemblying things together.

Dragonslayer · 11-26-2006, 9:32 AM

Okay,
I have the front of the bike suported, the front wheel was off as well as all the brake pluming being removed from the fork lowers themselves.

My problem nowis that I haveeverthing removedso that I might loosen the upper and lower bridge pich bolts and I am wondering if there issome secret to loosening the lower bridge bolts. I can geta box wrench in there but cannot get enough torque to loosen the bolt. Not enough room to get a ratchet in there, or do I have to take the whole nose cone and headlight assembly off the bike.

HELP time is running short for me!!!!!!

Toynut · 11-26-2006, 10:20 AM

I take it that you have already removed the lower plastic and fender, right.

A box end will probably not give you the leverage. A breaker bar/socket may be required, particularily for the first time removal (corrosion?)

One more thing, it might be easier for you to keep the front wheel on the ground, and the bike on th center stand, till you break the bolts loose. You wouldn't want to accidentally tip the bike over. You can hug the front tire between your knees for stability. Don't forget to remove those wire retainers at the top of the fork caps.

Dragonslayer · 11-26-2006, 10:28 AM

Sadly NO I have not taken the lower plastic off. I really hatedoing that since it is a pain in the but to get everything back together. But if that is what it takes I guess I will have to rise to the challenge. I did put thefront wheel back in for the exact reason you are speaking of. Problem is that I am prettysure that with removing the lower plastic will still not allow the use of a breaker bar since there is these bolts reside behind the headlight nose cone.

Dragonslayer · 11-26-2006, 10:33 AM

Just looked at my manual that I have on my computer and itlooks like if I remove the lower cowls as well as the inner cowl this should allow me the access that I m looking for. With any luck and a little time after work tommorrow I will have the forks out.

hillbilly · 11-26-2006, 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dragonslayer

Sadly NO I have not taken the lower plastic off. I really hatedoing that since it is a pain in the but to get everything back together. But if that is what it takes I guess I will have to rise to the challenge. I did put thefront wheel back in for the exact reason you are speaking of. Problem is that I am prettysure that with removing the lower plastic will still not allow the use of a breaker bar since there is these bolts reside behind the headlight nose cone.

Just get in there and put some pressure on the bolts. We used a boxed end wrench and they broke loose. Try tapping the end of the wrench with a hammer to break it loose.
We didn't have to pull the plastic off to get it.

XXTi · 11-26-2006, 11:03 AM

The only plastic you must remove is the fender. Go eat a big breakfast and put some more grunt on that wrench or buy a breaker bar and socket.

Toynut · 11-26-2006, 11:06 AM

You should still be able to reach them without having to take the nose cone off (if you are careful). I must admit, though, I removed all of my plastic when doing the job. But I was installing the Spiegler lines at the same time as I was doing the Traxxion/Penske installation.
One positive note.
This bike is fairly straight forward in removing/reinstalling plastics. Much more so than some others that I own.

chaserkeywest · 11-26-2006, 1:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XXTi

The only plastic you must remove is the fender. Go eat a big breakfast and put some more grunt on that wrench or buy a breaker bar and socket.

Use some Corrison Block, Blaster, or simular spray lube and give it over night to free up those fasteners before you Monkey fist it!

Warchild · 11-26-2006, 1:57 PM

I dunno about the wisdom of applying a lot of torque to break a fastener free while the bike is being suspended by jacks or similar (read: not overly stable) means.

Ideally, the plastic should have come off and the requisite fasteners broken free (then snugged back up) prior to jacking up the bike and removing the front wheel, etc. You really should only be applying heavy torque to a fastener while the bike is on the center-stand and the front wheel on the ground!

Do be careful, gentlemen, when going about this fork removal business... about the LAST thing you want to happen is to have a tip-over mishap occur!

'Cuz when that happens, you're looking at potentially hundreds of $$$ worth of plastic damage, if not worse!

r2t2 · 11-26-2006, 2:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Warchild

I dunno about the wisdom of applying a lot of torque to break a fastener free while the bike is being suspended by jacks or similar (read: not overly stable) means.

Ideally, the plastic should have come off and the requisite fasteners broken free (then snugged back up) prior to jacking up the bike and removing the front wheel, etc. You really should only be applying heavy torque to a fastener while the bike is on the center-stand and the front wheel on the ground!

Do be careful, gentlemen, when going about this fork removal business... about the LAST thing you want to happen is to have a tip-over mishap occur!

'Cuz when that happens, you're looking at potentially hundreds of $$$ worth of plastic damage, if not worse!

That's why my plastic comes off...

Warchild · 11-26-2006, 3:07 PM

I have posted my write-up of replacing the Blackbird's Fork Springs in the Tech section of the forum.

This is the same write-up I did for the Wilbers springs back in the spring of 2005... it is essentially the same procedure for the Eibach springs a number of you are getting on the current GP Suspension Group Buy:

http://www.cbrxx.com/honda-cbr-xx-technical-articles/532-replacing-blackbirds-fork-springs.html#post4775