Hello to all.
I have been working on a top hat design for the busa conversion. Drawings and mock ups are done. Next step is to get the drawings converted over and a couple of them machined. Is there anyone intrested in helping out with the cad and machine work via cnc or conventional milling ?
Few pics of the mockup. It uses the stock Blackbird bearings, seals and castle nuts. The stock Busa spindle and top nut but it's turned down at the bearing and locknut area for the BB pieces. The top hat can use the stock Busa bar cap with helibar's. Clipons or a regular motorcycle handle bar setup using bolt on saddles.
Well that's coming on.
Are you aiming to take down the area around the ignition key to give easier access but still maintain the steering lock?
BTW you are so lucky not to have HISS I had great 'fun' making up a piece to hold that correctly when I did my Kwak conversions.
Just looking at the lower yoke am I correct in assuming that the lock stops will need changing? If you do, I found it very useful to drill the new ones off centre so that you could rotate them into exactly the correct position ..... effectively a pair of cams.
It actually clears the key engaging the locks with the cut down shown in the first pic. The locking bolt engages perfectly in the stock frame points. We are looking at changing out the inner panel panel plastic pop pins for shoulder bolts. The heads actually line up on the fork tubes and match the BB's original stop points to a tee.
Ok wanted to give an update. Sending drawings and mockup out to quote in the next week. I settled on drilling the hat for a busa cap. I have found bolt on stanchions that will allow standard bar to bolt into the busa mounting points as well. So this hat has the option of a standard bike bar, busa top hat or clipons. If you don't use the first 2 options then you'll have mounting holes for a camera or phone or gps. Or there will be blind plugs in the holes instead. If anyone is interested in pne of these let me know.
I hope no one to finds this as demeaning or condescending, but why? Why would I think of doing such a task? Is there a weakness to overcome this doing these mods? (Devil's advocate)
I hope no one to finds this as demeaning or condensending, but why? Why would I think of dong such a task? Is there a weakness to overcome this doing these mods? (Devil's advocate)
None at all Aphrodite.
1. Fully externally adjustable compression, rebound and preload
2. Newer generation improved fork design
3. Greatly increased rigidity 50mm versus 43mm
4. About 15 pound weight reduction a good part of it moved from the sprung (active components) mass. Resulting in a much better reaction to road surface (tire stays planted much better).
i run a ganmar spacer on my busa gen 2[i had it machined to 17mm or so iirc] plus helibars to make it comfy
you have to put the key down into the ignition lock with the spacer-its no biggie as the busa has a fairly long key
biggest difference between the busa and bird for me was the soft front end of the bird,and i dont ride that fast really-but probably brake late and hard compared to some
My oldest son is going to run the gen 1 front with the stock Busa hat and heli's. He likes to be leaned forward a little bit. The ignition locks no problem for him. He's building an rfid security system to enable and light the bike. It will have a quarter sized disc with a tether. It locks into a receiver located in the hole that was occupied by the previous Busa tumbler. It has a 6 foot proximity that initializes when it senses the chip. Then you have to insert the disc and hit the starter switch and the bike fires up. All of the bikes power is routed through the control box. So the only way to move the bike with out the chip is to push it away. Then you'll have to strip the wire harness and replace it to get the bike running.
Discussed the benefits of either with the machinist who has a large number if years and experience. Understanding the corrosion properties were also a factor and weld ability as well as forming characteristics. We came to the conclusion for strength that it would be the best. I plan to either powder coat or clear coat the part when I am done and beings I am in a desert climate corrosion isn't to much of an issue. Machine ability isn't an issue for him either.
Nice piece of metal there. Already have the triple section the busa actually pretty much bolts in. You just have to make new stops or what we're doing is modding the inner fairing panel push pins to work as stops against the fork tubes. The busa width puts them in a perfect alignment. The real tricky part is locating the key assembly if you want to retain the bar locking function.
First rendering from my good friend Kurt that got this whole thing started couple years back. One of the billets it heading over to the Machine shop today.
If anyone is interested in a copy let me know. Shooting for a price point of 300.00 if get a couple made the price may be less than that. Serious requests only please.
Ok here's the next step.
New modified spindle next to it partially set into the Busa triple. It uses stock Blackbird tapered roller retrofits and seals from Pyramid. Waiting for the machine shop to get the top hat done and we're one step closer to fitting my Busa front forks. If anyone is interested this can be kitted up for a retro for 1st and 2nd gen Busa forks. Let me know gents and I'll be happy to do it for you.
This is right at the top of my list of STDs (stuff to do) for next winter. I have been watching ebay to get a feel for what is available, what should I look for in the way of year ect?
FW
Go with second gen. Better braking system. You can get good feel with a radial master on the first gens if it's all you can find at a good price. I've seen 1st's go for 500. The top yoke I built will work with 1st or 2nd.
Yes that's a 1st gen they ran from inception to 07. Second gen is 08 and up. Not to bad a price but I'd be worried about the bent tube. Also you need the lower triple clamp with the spindle top nut and washer. I've seen the spindle priced at as low as 17.00.
Ok here's pics of my son's version of the Busa install. In his version he retains all of the triple. It has the modified spindle from the triple using the stock Blackbird castle nuts tapered roller bearings and stock seals. The down side is he can't use the fork lock or the the ignition switch. But he doesn't care about it he has designed a circuit using a hardened processor. He has a encrypted RFID chip that will set into a reader socket in place of the key. The system has a sensor circuit that will detect the chip at about 6ft and wake up the processor waiting for the puck to be set into the reader slot. Once the puck is seated there is a delay then the bike powers up fully and can be started.
Ok here's pics of my son's version of the Busa install. In his version he retains all of the triple. It has the modified spindle from the triple using the stock Blackbird castle nuts tapered roller bearings and stock seals. The down side is he can't use the fork lock or the the ignition switch. But he doesn't care about it he has designed a circuit using a hardened processor. He has a encrypted RFID chip that will set into a reader socket in place of the key. The system has a sensor circuit that will detect the chip at about 6ft and wake up the processor waiting for the puck to be set into the reader slot. Once the puck is seated there is a delay then the bike powers up fully and can be started.
Just completed the Gen 2 Hayabusa front end conversion similar to your lad.
Added the monoblocks from a GSXR1000L9 to save more weight
Even kept the yokes and stem from the Busa standard
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Honda CBR XX Forum
439.1K posts
29.3K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird Motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, classifieds, and more!