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Busa top yoke

13K views 80 replies 14 participants last post by  beestoys 
#1 ·
Hello to all.
I have been working on a top hat design for the busa conversion. Drawings and mock ups are done. Next step is to get the drawings converted over and a couple of them machined. Is there anyone intrested in helping out with the cad and machine work via cnc or conventional milling ?
 
#32 ·
Yep getting stoked to get it and check the fit. Then do the rest of the conversion. I'll have to start getting the order together for the vario bars.
 
#36 ·
Here's some pics of the hat installed. Plan is to fit it up to my son's BB with the GEN1 front clip and make sure the stack heights are right. If all checks out then the nest step will be to order the Vario bars. The 4 holes in the top allow the Stock Busa bar hat to be used if a person wants to or use them for a ram mount or just cap them off. The 2 lower holes also have the same spread to allow a standard bar saddle and conventional handle bar assembly.

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#39 ·
Thanks
Just need to get my bars and order out a couple of pieces to test for for conventional bars then it should be ready to go. If anyone is interested let me know i an thinking I could kit it out for about 500.00. That would include the hat, modified stem, bearings and seals. I'll also get a pic for everyone with the busa top hat. It will look lot like CBRDEANO'S
 
#42 ·
Thanks. If anyone would like a copy let me know. Thinking it can be kitted for 500.00 that would include hat spindle mod and bearing and seal kit.
 
#43 · (Edited)
Ok putting out feelers
I am going to pick up another billet and have a couple more of these made up. My son has dibs on one so there will be another one available. Cost drops for a pair plus the material. I'm going to check the price and availability this weekend. If anyone is interested let me know the price may drop if we do more than the 2 of them. The rest of the pieces are the cost of a spindle plus machining. The 2 dimensions and cutting the threads to match the Honda's castle nuts. This lets you keep the stock Honda bearings and seals. If you've been contemplating this swap this yoke and spindle allows you to keep the stock switch assembly and bar lock. The stops I am working out but it is my intent to make the pop pin holes for the inner panels of the fairings a bolt on affair now and use the heads of the bolts as the stops. They actually line up with the shock tubes and give you a bit more lock to lock travel than stock with out tank contact.

So if your interested chime in and I'll answer anymore questions and work up a price for you.

On another note you can also make the change over to tappered roller bearings top and bottom at this same time using pyramid bearings seal and bearing kit for the blackbird off of their website. If i start kitting these like i do my cruise controls the kit will include those parts on it as well.
 
#44 ·
Ok billet stock acquired thinking of having 3 made up anyone want to call dibs on 2 of them.

The kit will comprise of:
1 Custom top triple that allows use of the stock ignition switch and retains the locking function. The hat can be used with clipons or the Hayabusa heli bars. and will work with Gen 1 and 2 setups.
2 Pyramid tapered roller bearing kit and seals.
 
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#46 ·
Well as can happen when fabricating new things. Bars arrived today and are the wrong ones. Clamp bolts are clocked out 180 so I've sent a message off the the supplier to see if he can get the correct pieces and then we can swap out the clamps. Gilles makes them it's just getting everyone on the same page that takes the time.
 
#47 ·
So after numerous emails with Gilles in Germany and Lyle at BellissiMoto in vegas we have found the right bar setup. The bike it fits is a 2012 Suzuki GSXR 1000. So new clamps are on order and Lyle giving me straight across swap.
 
#48 · (Edited)
Making a cal out for anyone interested. Cost per copy will be even 325. 1 is already spoken for so 2 are up for grabs if anyone is interested. They'll be finished in bare aluminum so that you can have them powder coated. Painted or anodized to your color.
 
#49 ·
Just got the word. New bars are at home waiting for me. So now i just need to get to a powder coater and check my options for color. Like i had mentioned earlier. Looking to do both wheels and side cases along with the new upper triple clamp.
 
#50 · (Edited)
Updated from machine shop he's telling me 3 week turn around on upper yoke from receipt of billets. Still looking to do 3 of these if anyone's interested 2 are unspoken for. So if your interested in one of them let me know 325.00 a copy
 
#51 ·
Getting closer. May have to downsize the riser sections I bought these for a very good price but they may be a bit tall. Need to get the hat color matched now too. Torn between powder coating and painting them myself. Leaning more to the painting just because I enjoy the fact that it's my handiwork when it's all said and done.

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#52 ·
Getting closer. May have to downsize the riser sections I bought these for a very good price but they may be a bit tall.
Are those risers 100mm (or possibly longer)? I initially had 100's (bought at very good price as well) and whilst they worked they were a bit long, I've now fitted 80's which work better. One word or 'warning', with those bars the angle that the hose ends come out of the reservoirs is rather important since the hoses will try to either rub on the front of the bar/fork clamps or take up strange angles/rub when the bars are on full lock. I've had these issues when re-using my longer hoses that I had made up. Initial fit (with 100's) was perfect but when I was adjusting the riding position recently with the now fitted 80's I realised a slightly different end on the hoses would have been better .....

Torn between powder coating and painting them myself. Leaning more to the painting just because I enjoy the fact that it's my handiwork when it's all said and done.
Or you could do as I have done and set up an oven in your garage and powder coat 'stuff' yourself! Great fun and I'm really impressed with the results I am achieving and I have the added satisfaction of 'all my own work'. What's more, with your own kit you can tackle small parts that would never be economic if you passed them out to a shop.
 
#53 ·
Yes they are 100's and thinking the same Duck. The only reason I may keep them is I'm not really sure where the new hat position will have them ending up. the 100 comes out too almost 4 inches 80 is just over 3 so I may drop to 60. That's the cool thing about the vario's is the modular adjustment. I'm also looking at the possibility of a radial MC for both so that I can tip the levers down more. My wrist placement is a bit unconventional in that i want to lay my fingers down more pointing towards the front axle not parallel to the road.

I have thought about that but part of my problem is that the colors I am looking at and the outlay for the equipment. I have the paint guns and I am thinking it may be easier to get the effect I'm looking for (Gold anodize) with those. It won't be as durable but for about what I estimate at 125.00 I can cover everything.
 
#54 ·
Sounds like you have things sorted beestoys, I was only joking about the powder coating kit it took me some time to find top quality kit at a reasonable price but now I'm hooked, shame you are not close or you could have called in and carried out the work yourself with the only cost being the powder.

If as you say you want to have your fingers pointed down the angle of the banjo becomes very important, it was when I started to angle my fingers down a touch from the parallel position that I encountered my 'problem'. As you say with bars that are so adjustable you can sort most things, but changing the length of the 'upright' has in my case caused the 'angle of dangle' of the hoses to be a problem (now overcome) but if I was doing this again I would settle on the length of the 'upright' before sorting the hoses ..... thought it worth a mention.
 
#55 ·
LOL:poke:noted. I had thought of doing the powder coat as well myself but I already have fridge out there and space is at a premium with 3 other birds occupying space lol.

Yes when I got these I wasn't sure if the would be to to tall or not. They as you have stated are definitely to tall for the stock lines. But thank you very much for the heads up on the exit angle for the new lines. I do like the angled top of the stock Busa masters. it makes the install look a lot cleaner. But once i start tipping these a remote radial master may be a better option. I have been told using the Kawasaki ZX masters may be a good option. I am also going to look into the later years of the GSXR and see if they are remote as well. Either one will give me the option of down tipping the levers to a more natural angle. I have a hydraulic shop nearby that has stated they can build me any line I want using the stock fittings or new as I see fit. This will prove to be very beneficial for the rear when I delink as I can use the unique compound curved rear fitting again. I have looked and test fitted a Galfer Kit for one of my customers that bought a cruise control. the thread is in here discussing the minor issue and therein problem with the fitting angle on the rear MC. Because of the compound angle Mr Honda used most if not all of the aftermarket kits have to remove the factory twist limiter stop built into the factory MC. The shop I am using only charges 15.00 per factory fitting and the have a process that allows them to reuse the fitting. The lines are pressure tested and guaranteed to 5000 psi so I am confident that will not be an issue. it also allows me to spread out the cost doing lines one or a pair at a time as needed.
 
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#56 ·
Another step closer. I have settled on gold as the top hat color. I had new braided lines made up today locally. Both hoses fabbed with new ends and 3 inches added to the main down line for 75.00. So last few details (gold paint) and new levers and it's ready to install. Just need to get gold paint for the wheel and titanium for the fender, prep and spray then and it's done.

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