6gun

I just bought a 97 blackbird last Thursday, and on the first ride I found the rear brake caliper was sticking to the point it wore the brake pads away. The bike had been sitting in storage for quiet a while, and I found out it had been to the dealer for new rear pads about 300 miles and one year ago. I talked with the service mgr where the work was done and he stated they found the caliper to be sticking then but after installing the new pads the problem seemed to not be there.
What should I be concerned with other that a caliper rebuild and new brake pads with a fluid flush and bleed. Is this a common problem or has the fact that the bike has been sitting the problem.
TIA

St

PJNXX

I've never heard of this problem on a Blackbird. Start with the easiest thing first, that is, flush and replace the brake fluid. It might be contaminated from the bike sitting for so long.

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SGTSkiXX

my guess would be from sitting so much the fluid probably got some condinsation in it causing corrosion in the caliper. Shouldn't be to horrible to fix

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flitemdic

Only other time I heard of this on a Honda was a Goldwing that had sat in storage for about 8 years. The caliper rebuild with a flush and pads should do the trick, but again, I don't think this is a 'bird thing, I think it's probably a storage thing.

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N2YN 8/22/2004

6gun

Thanks for the replys.
I have owned several Hondas and consider them to be the standard bearer.
I felt this was the case with the brake but wanted some input before I jumped in.

Again thanks

Steve

amsiegel

Make sure you bleed correctly

I just had the same problem on my 97 BB which also seemed to be sitting ( outside in Florida weather) for awhile before I bought it. We changed the pad and bleed the rear caliper a little bit. Well I did not recheck the caliper and drove about 100 miles and burnt through a set of pads, ruined the caliper and the rotor. The bike ran so strong that the 4 of use that where ridding it for the 100 miles never relized the caliper was stuck.

Well now I know to double check everything. I found a used caliper on ebay for $50 with newr hoses and valve and new rotor for 99 and bought new pads. Works great but have to bleed the system one more time.

scottsxx

Bleed/flush the fluid and install new pads.
Take it for a short ride to 50-60 MPH. Coast to a stop and feel the rear disc. If it's hot, you need to rebuild the calliper. If you can't push the pistons in with your thumbs, it's time for a rebuild.

The calipers are quite simple..........just make sure the grooves that the seals set in are nice and clean. Neglected brake fluid turns nice and gummy and has to be cleaned out.

XXNUTZ

You might want to check the caliper slides themselves as well. They are the hollow bushings that the caliper mounting bolts go thru. The bushings should be free to move back and forth with the caliper removed. The caliper floats on these bushings just like an automotive caliper, if sticking you can burn thru some pads that way as well. Good Luck.

6gun

Got new caliper o-rings, brake pads and fluid along with a speed bleeder.
In addition I've gotten the caliper pin lube and red thread locker.
Any thing else I need.
Good tips all and I appreciate the feedback and help.

thanks

Steve

jjmcjames

I would not use red threadlocker, or what I call red Loctite. I would use the blue Loctite-easier to remove if and when you need to remove the bolt/pin/fastener.

mtncruser

I just bought a low mileage '97. On the first ride I felt a slight drag when I started out. The further I rode, the more drag I felt. After 2 miles the bike would hardly move. The foot pedal could be pushed down, with no resistance. I cracked the rear bleed screw and steamy fluid spewed out. The wheel then rotated freely and I drove back home with front brakes only.

I disassembled the rear caliper. The caliper and pistons did not look scored or gummed up. I installed new seals. The pistons pushed in easily. The rotor was scored, so I had it blanchard ground. The thickness is now 4.85 mm. I installed new pads and lubed the slider pins.

The front brakes apply and release fine - no drag. The rear brake was free when first assembled, but wouldn't release after being applied the first time. The fronts continue to work fine. Each time I apply the rear brake, it will not release fully until the rear bleed screw is cracked to release pressure.

I believe some other component in the brake system is not allowing the pressure to release at the rear caliper. I'll disassemble the rear master cylinder next. Any other suggestions?

shewie

Check the secondary master cylinder on the front left side of the bike just above the caliper. It applies rear brake when the front brakes are engaged and is likely sticking.

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steveb

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iliae

I would replace the whole brake fluid plus the o rings of the rear calipers.Can you open thr rear brake caliper in half?

mtncruser

Shewie, You were exactly right! I disassembled and cleaned the secondary master cylinder, bled the system (many times) and it works great - no drag. Thanks!!

shewie

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Uglystick

OMG someone mark this day for future reference.

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shewie

Eat it, beyotch.

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Where are we going and what am I doing in this handbasket?!

Uglystick

__________________
Laying in bed and crying "Oh God!" does not
Constitute going to church

joshcobra

I bought my bike (it sat up for 7 years the guy told me) and the rear brake stuck, I rebuilt it and it didnt work, so I just replaced the caliper...(brakes are your life)

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