Hi blackbird brain central.Trying to resurrect my 2005 Bird for a second time.

Have recently bought a non-HISS US version CBR1100XX ECU because I had broken my key and lost the chip for my original ECU. see Blackbird chucking a HISS-y fit .

Thanks to everyone who helped there.I saw a youtube video where a guy installed a US VFR800 ECU to an Australian version VFR800 Using a non-HISS ECU on a HISS-equipped Honda motorcycle - YouTube.

There was just one more power wire that was needed on one terminal of the US ECU and he was up and going. The wiring of a VFR800, unfortunately, is not identical to the blackbird, but it is close. Can anyone tell me how to wire my US ECU to my '05 Australian blackbird?Thanks in advance for any help or ideas.Jon (Adelaide Australia)

Am I correct in thinking that your Bird will have emissions control (CAT and lamda sensor)?

Originally Posted by TheDuck

Am I correct in thinking that your Bird will have emissions control (CAT and lamda sensor)?

Is there a way of finding out? I imagine, being a late model, that it will have most emission sensors.
Jon

Yes the AU 2005 model has the full emission package.. wont have cats if the stock pipes have been replaced with slipons.

Originally Posted by Uglystick

Yes the AU 2005 model has the full emission package.. wont have cats if the stock pipes have been replaced with slipons.

I have an akrapovic 4into1. Do you think the usa ecu is a goer?

Well with the emissions control 'out of the way' (assuming 02 eliminator used) that is the very first hurdle ................ but I have some serious doubts on the compatibility, which would only be solved by cross checking inputs/outputs for each sensor (VFR and Bird)..... do they even have the same sensors? Then you would of course have to check that the same pins are used so the correct cable is going to the correct pin etc etc

I can understand the VFR to VFR swap but VFR to Bird without a lot of research I don't have that 'comfy feeling' ................ would have thought US Bird to yours would have been a better place to start if you have to take this route.

Originally Posted by TheDuck

I can understand the VFR to VFR swap but VFR to Bird without a lot of research I don't have that 'comfy feeling' ................ would have thought US Bird to yours would have been a better place to start if you have to take this route.

I think he is actually talking about using an XX ECU pete...

The year of the donor ECU hasnt been mentioned as yet... if its an 03 XX ecu then you should stand a good chance... If its pre 2001 then the odds get significantly worse...

Cheers Uglystick, if it is a Bird ECM yes that does make the chances much better, but as you say the year is important, cooling system changes etc.

I'm still trying to get my head around the emissions 'stuff' and further to my last post I'm not certain if it is actually cleared .................. thinking out loud

Original emissions control ECM expects certain signals.
If you fit an O2 eliminator the 'emissions control' ecm is 'fooled' into accepting all is well.

What are the effects of trying to 'fool' an ECM that never knew about emissions control?
There again doesn't California have emissions control so is there a chance that the ECM is expecting emissions control info it it comes from this location?

Forgot told mention that US ECU is a CBR1100xx 1999 model. Goods news today is that bike started and appeared ok while sitting in the shed. I grafted pin 2 to pin 19 on grey connector. The rest of the bike is still a mess so will send pics and more info soon. While the engin sounded normal only a road test will tell me if all is right.

If the ecu is a 2000 and the bike is a 2005 then I know of at least one area that may be a problem ... The Temp sender unit is different between the 2 years.. If you were to use a sender from the 2000 (the output signal that the cpu expects) then the temp gauge will read at about 129C at power on and get to 132C in seconds after ignition. If you use the 2005 temp sender then the temp gauge will read correctly but the ecu will be getting a different resistance to what is expected..

Before i get to much further I might add that this is exact the situation with my 1999 (has a 2005 sender to accomodate the dash) I havent seen an problems with my bike but it doesnt have all the emision gear that a 2005 has.. The temp output being incorrect could be causing the ecu to believe that the engine is cold and richening the fuel mixture to componsate.

As the duck points out the 2000 ( I believe even on the CA models) do not have a o2 sensor.. i cant help but wonder where that signal is going to. There is less back pressure on a 2000 due to the absence of cats, so this may lead to a fueling issue...

Oh and im thinking that your FI light is going to glow.. the output from the 2000 ecu expects a filament globe for the FI display.. to get these to act quick enough to display the blinks correctly there is nearly 5v at the globe at all times (unless on of course)
The digital dash has an LED and this will glow with the 5v injection...(partiuclarly annoying at night if you dont fix it.. Zener diodes are your friend)

Where did you get the info on the splice of wiring and did you try it without the splice...

Thanks for all the help guys.

Uglystick, I have a bit of a hybrid too. Because my original 05 bird had a bent crank, I replaced the whole engine with a 2000 model engine but with the 05 injectors. When I first got it all going several years back I had the temp gauge misreading too high, but simply swapped the temp sender to the 2005 model sender - problem gone. I never, for the past couple of years, have had any running difficulties with the bike. Great economy and enormous power.

But now with my second accident rebuild it has a non-HISS US 1999 ECU which I have just fitted and got going as per previous posts.
I got the idea of using a US ECU from this youtube video:

Using a non-HISS ECU on a HISS-equipped Honda motorcycle - YouTube

The guy put a non-HISS VFR800 US ECU on an Australian spec VFR800. He guessed that the wiring trick would work on other similar era HISS bikes, like the Blackbird. So I gave it a whirl.

First I found a couple of colour Blackbird wiring diagrams online (I will find them but cannot find them at the moment, but will post when I can) and then the black and white version of the standard CBr1100xx manual and then cross checked the colours and numbers of wires to the ECU with my own ECU plugs.

What I found was:

1. That the non-HISS US ECU wiring loom had two power wires (one black/white wire on pin 2 and one black/white wire on pin 19) to the grey connector instead of one only power wire (black/white wire on pin 2) on the Australian HISS model ECU. (note that the pins are counted from left to right, top row first then bottom row)
2. Because there is no pin 19 on my wiring loom I removed one of the pins and wire from a now not-needed HISS wire on the connector (red/white wire) and put it in pin 19.
3. I then soldered the pin 19 wire to the pin 2 wire, thereby putting power to both pins simultaneously. See my photo.

As you can see the bike is quite a mess at the moment so wont be riding it for a bit. But it goes. Also, I am planning to make it a very lean naked bike and not use the original instruments which are partially smashed anyway (tach and left side LCD still okay)

Once again, thanks for all the help.

Can I put my name down for the dash when you have completed you use of it.. I need a second tacho for a change over unit to put gear indicators in..

Originally Posted by Uglystick

Can I put my name down for the dash when you have completed you use of it.. I need a second tacho for a change over unit to put gear indicators in..

I will eventually put all my excess and broken stuff online for sale.it might be a while though as this whole thing has knocked the crap out of me.

Originally Posted by jonono63

I will eventually put all my excess and broken stuff online for sale.it might be a while though as this whole thing has knocked the crap out of me.

Thats cool... Im just calling dibbs on the dash is all... lol

Originally Posted by Uglystick

Where did you get the info on the splice of wiring and did you try it without the splice...

Yes. I did try without splice and it wouldn't start.