ConqSoft

I did this so that the signals could be kept in place when using my Givi WingRack, but some people do it just to streamline the rear a little more than stock.

The goal is to separate the signal at the point shown by the arrows, which will remove over an inch from the length.
xx_short_signals 001.jpg

To separate it, you'll need a skinny phillips head screwdriver. It needs to fit down the tube beside the wiring. Remove the screw and it should come right apart.
xx_short_signals 002.jpgxx_short_signals 003.jpgxx_short_signals 004.jpg

You'll be left with this. You'll need to find a screw that fits into that same hole, but it has to be long enough to reach through the rear fender as well. (See next step.)
xx_short_signals 005.jpg

Then, to re-install, use the stock "plate" as shown, and the screw mentioned in the previous step. Be sure the screw fits well enough to hold the signal firmly in place, and make sure you don't over-tighten and strip out the hole. Then just route the wiring back the same as stock, and plug it back in.
xx_short_signals 006.jpg

That's all there is to it.
xx_short_signals 007.jpgxx_short_signals 008.jpg

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Venus97

Perfect, this was my winter project. You just made it a whole lot easier. Thanks.

davesxx01

Or, for less than $20 just get the 600RR ruber peice. It's half the length of the 'Bird one and a perfect fit while providing some flex.

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ConqSoft

You've used that with the Givi WingRack? I don't think there's enough room for it to fit...

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HERBXX

I used a more complicated method to achieve the same result that is a little stronger but more invasive . I took the signals apart as show. Then cut the metal plate with the tube and stud in in out of the rubber. I brazed a couple of metal screws on back side of it pointing away from the stud. I then took the refector and bulb out of the case . Then grind down the edges of the plate to fit inside the end of the plastic case stalk . I then secured the plate inside the case using marglass(glass reinforced bodyfill) . I actually inserted a tube to make a passage for the wires and filled the rest of the space up in the stock with the marglass.

When you are done the signal bolts on like stock.

Its a bit or work , but I liked the results.

Herb

pnelson32

I'm doin' it. The rubber flimsy crap is gone.

I never looked at my rear signals so much until I read this thread, but, Dude, they come out quite a bit! Bringing them in an inch on each side would look better I think! They seem to in Ba-Da-Bing's pics!

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Venus97

I just did this today. It took a little longer than I thought, having to remove the rear cowl, then remove splices that were installed as part of the alarm, but the end results was worth it.

It really cleaned up the rear, in my opinion. (I was going to go aftermarket, but I think the stock turn signals have more light and keep the original look)

I used some black silicone when re-installing to prevent slippage when complete. That is my only concern it that if not tight enough or loosen due to vibration, they could spin.

YO-XX

Nice tutorial Conqsoft.

OZDave

Good one. The pictures helped a lot. Thanks.

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bad_dog

Good write up, looks like a weekend project for me

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Mick

1997 CBR1100XX (Black)

matd

Thanks again for the guide ConqSoft. I used the original screws with a washer and left the original nut in place. Its worked perfectly. :-)

ravi

thanks - wish i'd heard this a couple of months earlier... recently picked up the wingrack II 140 with the extra indicators for travel use... this would have saved me the pain of reconnecting the originals everytime i takethe rack off... though i guess the givi indicators have a huge advantage as regards visibility.

P.G.A

nice info
especially for those who love panniers.....

birdxxx

i wouldnt bother shortening the stock lights they are a bit bulky for my liking.
there are plenty of aftermarket lights available, i have tear drop lights for the rear with LED lights, very bright and noticable

XXCESS

My 01 bird with the standard indicators has no trouble fitting with the wingrack
<tho these are the Aussie euro style>

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Noel

jjmcjames

Nice write up to be sure. I used the stock screws with some flat washers behind the stock plate...much cleaner look.

Dufflad

Thanks for the writeup Conqsoft. My Oxford soft panniers sit nicely strapped under my seat now, where before they fouled the 'droopy dawg' rear indicators. The only thing I added was a thin strip of rubber to hopefully damp out the vibes from our s****y rough NZ roads.

Cheers
A

97Bird

Nice tutorial, the price is right too

I went one step further, in the quest to clean up the rear of the bike for free. I removed the rear reflectors, moved the license plate and light up, then trimmed the rear fender.

I think it looks way better, no need for an undertail/aftermarket lights for me

I do need to get a hugger though.

Attached Images

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	after.jpg (25.7 KB, 112 views)
	after1.jpg (64.7 KB, 111 views)

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ConqSoft

Wait until you ride it in the rain now. The stock rear fender is barely adequate to control the fling; shortening it has devastating results.

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97Bird

Yep, I have found that out - that's why I will be buying a hugger, hopefully that will help a little.

If I didn't ride in the rain, I wouldn't get out much!

Thanks again for posting that - I like easy, do it yourself mods

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