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How to shorten the stock CBR1100XX rear signals.

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Old 01-17-2007, 7:59 PM   #1
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I did this so that the signals could be kept in place when using my Givi WingRack, but some people do it just to streamline the rear a little more than stock.

The goal is to separate the signal at the point shown by the arrows, which will remove over an inch from the length.
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To separate it, you'll need a skinny phillips head screwdriver. It needs to fit down the tube beside the wiring. Remove the screw and it should come right apart.
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You'll be left with this. You'll need to find a screw that fits into that same hole, but it has to be long enough to reach through the rear fender as well. (See next step.)
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Then, to re-install, use the stock "plate" as shown, and the screw mentioned in the previous step. Be sure the screw fits well enough to hold the signal firmly in place, and make sure you don't over-tighten and strip out the hole. Then just route the wiring back the same as stock, and plug it back in.
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That's all there is to it.
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Old 01-17-2007, 8:55 PM   #2
 
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Perfect, this was my winter project. You just made it a whole lot easier. Thanks.
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Old 01-17-2007, 9:16 PM   #3
 
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Or, for less than $20 just get the 600RR ruber peice. It's half the length of the 'Bird one and a perfect fit while providing some flex.
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Old 01-17-2007, 9:17 PM   #4
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You've used that with the Givi WingRack? I don't think there's enough room for it to fit...
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Old 01-26-2007, 9:18 AM   #5

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I used a more complicated method to achieve the same result that is a little stronger but more invasive . I took the signals apart as show. Then cut the metal plate with the tube and stud in in out of the rubber. I brazed a couple of metal screws on back side of it pointing away from the stud. I then took the refector and bulb out of the case . Then grind down the edges of the plate to fit inside the end of the plastic case stalk . I then secured the plate inside the case using marglass(glass reinforced bodyfill) . I actually inserted a tube to make a passage for the wires and filled the rest of the space up in the stock with the marglass.

When you are done the signal bolts on like stock.

Its a bit or work , but I liked the results.

Herb
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Old 01-26-2007, 11:16 PM   #6
 
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I'm doin' it. The rubber flimsy crap is gone.

I never looked at my rear signals so much until I read this thread, but, Dude, they come out quite a bit! Bringing them in an inch on each side would look better I think! They seem to in Ba-Da-Bing's pics!

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Old 01-27-2007, 5:21 PM   #7
 
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I just did this today. It took a little longer than I thought, having to remove the rear cowl, then remove splices that were installed as part of the alarm, but the end results was worth it.

It really cleaned up the rear, in my opinion. (I was going to go aftermarket, but I think the stock turn signals have more light and keep the original look)

I used some black silicone when re-installing to prevent slippage when complete. That is my only concern it that if not tight enough or loosen due to vibration, they could spin.
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Old 01-28-2007, 5:20 AM   #8
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Nice tutorial Conqsoft.
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Old 01-28-2007, 5:23 AM   #9
 
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Good one. The pictures helped a lot. Thanks.
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Old 01-29-2007, 6:20 AM   #10
 
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Good write up, looks like a weekend project for me
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:13 PM   #11
 
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Thanks again for the guide ConqSoft. I used the original screws with a washer and left the original nut in place. Its worked perfectly. :-)
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Old 02-03-2007, 11:10 PM   #12

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thanks - wish i'd heard this a couple of months earlier... recently picked up the wingrack II 140 with the extra indicators for travel use... this would have saved me the pain of reconnecting the originals everytime i takethe rack off... though i guess the givi indicators have a huge advantage as regards visibility.

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Old 05-13-2007, 6:07 PM   #13

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nice info
especially for those who love panniers.....
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Old 05-14-2007, 12:03 PM   #14

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i wouldnt bother shortening the stock lights they are a bit bulky for my liking.
there are plenty of aftermarket lights available, i have tear drop lights for the rear with LED lights, very bright and noticable
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Old 06-18-2007, 6:42 AM   #15
 
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My 01 bird with the standard indicators has no trouble fitting with the wingrack
<tho these are the Aussie euro style>
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Old 06-20-2007, 11:28 AM   #16
 
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Nice write up to be sure. I used the stock screws with some flat washers behind the stock plate...much cleaner look.
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Old 09-25-2007, 8:38 PM   #17
 
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Thanks for the writeup Conqsoft. My Oxford soft panniers sit nicely strapped under my seat now, where before they fouled the 'droopy dawg' rear indicators. The only thing I added was a thin strip of rubber to hopefully damp out the vibes from our s****y rough NZ roads.

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Old 10-16-2007, 2:40 PM   #18
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Nice tutorial, the price is right too

I went one step further, in the quest to clean up the rear of the bike for free. I removed the rear reflectors, moved the license plate and light up, then trimmed the rear fender.

I think it looks way better, no need for an undertail/aftermarket lights for me

I do need to get a hugger though.

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Old 10-16-2007, 3:22 PM   #19
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Wait until you ride it in the rain now. The stock rear fender is barely adequate to control the fling; shortening it has devastating results.
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Old 10-16-2007, 4:32 PM   #20
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Yep, I have found that out - that's why I will be buying a hugger, hopefully that will help a little.

If I didn't ride in the rain, I wouldn't get out much!

Thanks again for posting that - I like easy, do it yourself mods
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Old 10-16-2007, 5:32 PM   #21
 
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You may want to try this also..

I originally did the mod nicely laid out by CongSoft, but after adding the bags and rebuilding the indicators to fit on the mounts supplied with the mounting kit. It just took removing the bags once and walking behind the bike to know they had to go.

So 20 mins later 2 Super Bright LED button indicators were installed as license plate bolts/indicators.

The group I normally ride with say they can see these much better especially in the bright sun light. Plus it looks good with the bags either on or off the bike.
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Old 11-17-2007, 11:52 PM   #22

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Funny, I first did this mod on my FJ in the mid 80's ... have done it to every road bike I've owned since, and have never bought a custom turn signal (though I replaced the lenses on the Harleys with flat ones) ... it's tomorrow's project on the new (to me) 'bird.

I'll also try and eliminate the tag light altogether, and mount the license plate as high as possible, as it appears blackbird11xx has. Why is there a seperate tag light on these bikes anyway? The tail light lens has the usual window in the bottom to illuminate the plate ... I'll cut out the opaque filler in the window, and bond in a piece of clear lexan, unless anyone has a better idea?
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Old 11-18-2007, 7:19 PM   #23
 
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Looks good but you would not get away with that in oz, indicators must be 12" apart if not they will sticker your bike & it's off the road

Quote:
Originally Posted by blackbird11xx View Post
You may want to try this also..

I originally did the mod nicely laid out by CongSoft, but after adding the bags and rebuilding the indicators to fit on the mounts supplied with the mounting kit. It just took removing the bags once and walking behind the bike to know they had to go.

So 20 mins later 2 Super Bright LED button indicators were installed as license plate bolts/indicators.

The group I normally ride with say they can see these much better especially in the bright sun light. Plus it looks good with the bags either on or off the bike.
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Old 11-18-2007, 10:15 PM   #24
 
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John68,

I did exactly what you are looking to do with the tag light. There is an actual cut out in the lens at the bottom of the tail light and after scoring the clue holding the Opague plate in I was able to pry it out clean. I using it as a template I then laser cut a white piece of plexiglass an popped it back in. (I originally was going to use clear but it created funky shadows over the plate, the white defussed the light evenly).

Its a simple modification, and could be achieved with a dremel and file if you need too to fashion the lens.

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Old 11-24-2007, 7:12 PM   #25

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