beestoys

Global Cruise Control 250-1316 Install For CBRXX 1100 Blackbird



Disclaimer

Information has been provided on these pages in hope that it will be useful.
Each of these pages contains steps followed to complete certain modifications on my bike.
This is not a shop manual. I am not a mechanic.
I assume no liability for any damages, direct or otherwise, resulting from the use of this information.
If you choose to follow the steps on these pages, you do so AT YOUR OWN RISK.


Parts used :

When adapting this cruise control to the Blackbird, the following parts have been used:
- Instruction booklet
- Servo assembly (the electronic brain that controls the throttle operation)
- Wiring harness
- Assorted clamps, attachments, connectors, etc.


Parts Required/Purchased/Fabricated :

• GM Weather pack 4 connector housing (male and female) Napa PN 725268 and 725267
• GM Weather pack seals for each wire Napa PN 725152 (8 required)
• GM Weather pack Terminal Napa PN 725150 for 18-20 gauge wire (4 required)
• GM Weather pack Terminal Napa PN 725151 for 18-20 gauge wire (4 required)
• Fuse Holder, Mini Napa PN NW 784667. 5 amp mini fuse Napa PN BK 782-2087
• Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) DC Relay Auto Zone PN 788801 or 20421
• Global cruise VSS Pulse Divider Divides by 4 PN 250-4379
• Honda Goldwing 1500 right handlebar control with Cruise WITH THE WIRING HARNESS INCLUDED.
• tie wraps

Optional Tool:

· Extraction Tool Napa PN 725153


Preparation :






To make this install easier I removed the following parts for access.

• Inner fairing pieces around gauges
• Windshield
• Left side lower fairing (Sitting on the bike)
• Left side inner fairing pieces
• Seat
• Rear cowling
• Gas tank
• Filter and airbox
• Left side ram air tube

Goldwing Control install: The control switch is a fairly straight bolt on. You will need to remove your existing barrel and cables they will be swapped over to the new control. You will need to drill a new locating hole in your bar. I accomplished this by taking a black felt pen and coloring the area about where the pin would be and then squeezed the control halves together by hand. First while holding the assembly where you want it twist the control slightly back and forth. This should give you a line for the depth of the pin on the bar from the end. Then without taking it off get the unit rotated to the positing you want it setting when it’s clamped. Slide the assembly in and out on the bar slightly and this will give you your rotated location. If you have done it correctly you should have a cross mark in the marker area. The center of this cross is the center of your location hole. Take the appropriate size drill (you can use the old hole for a gauge) and drill at the center of the cross. You may want to center punch the point to help keep the drill from walking off. Install the new control halves with old cables and barrel slide and adjust out the slack.
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Switch wiring :






This is accomplished by swapping at the red connectors. You will need a small pick or screwdriver to release the locking tab to get the wires out. Only do one wire at a time to keep from getting them mixed up. The following wires used in the Goldwing connector are listed with the corresponding wire colors they connect to in the Blackbird connector. As you will see most of these are one for one switches. The brake switch wires run separately until this connector and don’t need to be changed. All wire changes are made in the Goldwing’s connector

• Yellow with Red Stripe straight swap
• Black with White Stripe/ Black with 2 Silver Squares
• Black with Green Stripe almost white/ White with Black Stripe 2 Silver squares
• Black with White Stripe/ Same but with 2 Silver Squares

Cruise Control wires used form the Gold wing switch are.
· Black with Yellow Stripe and White Squares
· White with Black Squares
· White with Yellow Stripe and Black Squares
· White with Blue Stripe and Black Squares
The wires in the brown connector and the remaining unused wires left in the red connector can be cut back and wrapped into the loom.
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Control Module Switch Settings:
The following settings are from the manual on page 8 with recommended changes from Tom Callahan at Rostra.
Switch 1,2 on,off Low
Switch 3,4,5,6 on,off,on,on 19.3K pulse with divide by 4 network installed
Changed the above to on, on, on, off 24K pulse took out all of the pulsing and surge when you acvtivate the cruise.
Switch 7,8,9 off.on,off 6 cylinder/ Low
Switch 10 on Square wave input VSS
Switch 11 off Manual Transmission
Switch 12 off Open circuit Control Switch


Servo Mounting:
I Chose to mount the servo in the tail trunk and ran the drive cable out the left side, as you would sit on the bike. The cable comes forward then turns in just behind the rear frame mounting point. I used the bracket supplied in the kit cutting it at the edge of the 4th hole. I used a longer bolt to attach it via the stock seat bracket. I reshaped the bracket to make the bends a sharp 90 degrees at each point. This puts it above the stock computer and there should be enough room for a PCII or III if you have one. The cable is attached at the frame-grounding bolt using a strap that was supplied in the kit. I used a ¼ drill bit to open the hole up to clear the bolt.
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Linkage/ Cable attachment:
The cable is routed over the main fuel hose to the injectors and to the center of the throttle linkage. This arrangement puts it above the enrichment rod. And is attached by drilling a small hole in the throttle linkage as shown. I used the supplied cable loop and one of the chain link clips and plastic locks. I used blue Loctite to keep the screw from backing out. I crimped the loop tighter to keep it attached to the screw. It stays put very well and does not hinder throttle actuation. The trick is to not attach the frame-mounting bolt until you are ready to set the tank down again. But all of the fitting can be done at this point. I set my cable for a little slack. You must be sure to have a little slack. About 1/8 inch is recommended if this isn’t set you can hang the throttle open when the servo releases. This is accomplished by pulling the cable back after you have everything in place. You will need to watch the clamp, as it will try to wind up as you tighten the bolt. I stopped most of mine by placing one of the ground lugs under the bolt head and above the bracket. Do not tighten the bolt too much to allow the cable to be slipped in the bracket. Once it is adjusted tighten down the bolt the rest of the way.
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Main System Wiring:
Most of this follows the install book. With following exception you will modify the supplied harness as I note here. After I finished I found I only needed one of the 4 pin connectors and 4 wires to run forward. The remaining wires were either removed completely as I cut out the extra wire or cut back and tucked into the wrap I used. You will have to cut and redo both ends of the solid red wire to match the respective 4-pin housing. The male and female will be reversed to what you need. Just cut off the connectors from another connector that will be deleted as we progress. The factory 4-pin male and female connector you will keep has the green, yellow and red with brown trace in it.
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The next picture shows the connector coming from the control switch assembly you will note the solder splice I made to get this connection changed from female to male. You will need to change the other side as well from male to female.
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The next picture is of a tie wrap I used to release these connectors from their housing. If you look into the housing you can see the locking tab. All you need to do is slip the tie wrap end into the housing to get it to bend the lock tab back into the connector body. Work with it and be patient once you have the tab sufficiently bent in the connector will release. You can use the same tie wrap to release the other connector as well from the female side.
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A. Black Ground
I attached this to the frame lug by tank bolts (see the above picture)

B. Brown Accessory Power
I tied this into the fused side of the main fuse block it is spliced into the IND, METER, TAIL, ILLUMI slot. This allowed me to remove the 10 amp blade fuse supplied with the kit and integrate the stock fuse in the bikes existing system. I removed the connector by releasing the locking tab on the connector. I used a test light or you can use a scribe or ice pick. The trick is to catch the tab as you looking into the socket. It simply pushes back to disengage. The connector will slip down out of the connector body when it is released. You will need to pull down slightly to get to slip free. Once you have the wire soldered as shown you can slip it back into the body after it has cooled. The key is to use minimal solder and to get the wire tight to the connector strain relief so that it will slip back into the connector housing. I found it easier to tin the connectors with a little solder, first in the area between the main connector lug and where the factory wire is crimped. Apply the solder to the crimped area on the connector. You will also want to tin the wire (apply solder to the exposed stripped area). This was how I made most of my spliced connections. It keeps wire insulation integrity and keeps the installation neat and clean. The following pictures show how the splice is done.
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C. Red Brake Positive
This wire needs to be hot at all times so I tied it into fused side of the CLOCK circuit of the fuse block using the 5-amp mini fuse connector from the parts list.
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D. Violet Brake Negative
I had to use a relay in my system because of the LED taillight installed in my bike. The LED looks like and open to the servo which uses this path for a sense ground. This allows the unit to automatically disengage when the brake is applied. The unit keeps the setting in memory with this setup so that all you need to do is hit the resume button to go back to your last set speed. The path for the ground circuit is through pins 30 and 87A. You will need a single pole double throw really to get the path with the relay at rest (not energized) The power for the relay comes through pins 85 and 86 from the connector that is plugged into the rear brake switch. You will need the side that is on when the brake is pressed. I grounded to the negative terminal on the battery. After you have it installed you can verify proper operation by activating each brake. You should hear the relay click when you apply each brake.
If you don’t have and LED taillight then you can tie the power side (Violet wire) into the connection for the rear brake switch. You don’t need to ground it in this situation. Be sure you catch the side that shows voltage only when the brakes are applied. You can verify this with a test light. By tying in here the unit will be able to sense both front and rear brakes.
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E. Dark Blue Tachometer (TACH)
Not used I removed this wire from the connector and replaced it with a solid red wire. By doing this swap I was able to reduce the Rostra white plastic connectors to one and simplifying the install. The only connection going forward now in the main harness for the control switch.

F. Grey (Vehicle Speed Sensor) VSS
I tapped into the VSS sensor at the factory connector as described in the previous splice. The connector is a bit of a pain to find it is in a bundle with other connectors coming from the engine. This wire comes up through the main cruise harness to the main power center under the seat.
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From here it is wired into the pulse divider listed in the parts section.

G. VSS Signal Adapter (Pulse Divider)
I first sealed up both ends of the adapter with RTV. Be careful not to use to much you only want enough to coat the wires and the opening without filling down into the board area. I would also recommend sensor safe RTV to prevent corrosion of the components. You can purchase it at your local auto parts store. It will say sensor safe on the package.

Red Wire
I tied this into the fused side of the TURN, STOP, HORN, PASS fuse block using the earlier splice procedure.

Green Wire
Connect this to the gray wire coming up from the VSS signal.

Yellow Wire
Connects to the gray VSS wire that goes to the control servo

Black Wire
I added this to the lug from the Relay ground on the negative side of the battery.

After you have everything connected I tucked the unit between the relay and fender piece.
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H. Light Green Neutral Safety (NSS)
Not used (removed)

I. Orange Enable
Not used (removed)

J. Auxiliary Speed Sensor Connector
Not used

K. 4-Pin Switch Connector
Used to connect the Goldwing control switch with the Red, Red Brown, Yellow, Green wires in the cruise control unit.

The Goldwing switch is considered a Normally Open Control Switch. Connecting it requires cutting the original white plastic connector and replacing it with the GM 4-pin Weather pack connector listed in the parts section. I used this connector for availability and its weather proofing.
Strip back the Red, Red Brown, Green and yellow wires from the cruise control servo slip the rubber grommets over the wires as shown in the picture and attach the Female connectors as shown. The pictures shown are of the male but the same procedure applies for both. You can crimp or solder them depending on your tools and skill. I used the pliers’ end of my stripper in the steps shown below to crimp the wires. Napa sells the tool to crimp them but it’s about 75.00 dollars. The crimp method I used secures the wires very well. Trim the strain reliefs back as shown to make wrapping it easier. Take your time and the crimp will be very strong.
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The next step is to set each connector in the housing as shown. The colors are from the top down Red, Red Brown Stripe, Green, and Yellow. Be sure you have this right before you set the connector. Once they are in they are virtually impossible to remove. Napa sells a tool for this and it is the only way to get either the male or female out without damage. It is listed as an optional tool in the parts listing. You just push the wire in until you hear it click and its locked. Slip the grommet up into the housing next and then snap the cover shut.
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Repeat the steps for the male connector’s and install them in the connector housing as described earlier. Make sure you have the wires aligned in this manner before you snap them in place.

The combinations are as follows

· Red / Black with Yellow Stripe and White Squares
· Red with Brown Stripe / White with Black Squares
· Green / White with Yellow Stripe and Black Squares
· Yellow / White with Blue Stripe and Black Squares
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L. 2-Pin Switch Connector
Not used (removed)

And that completes the install I went through the Trouble shooting procedures to verify all my connections were good.

The road test was good a few things to note when activating the system hit accel set and hold the throttle a few seconds. This will minimize the surge of the servo coming in. It will come in if you don’t but may over shoot a little and take a drop and rise again to lock. It isn’t a big move but it might be a bit unnerving the first time. Coming down a grade it will feel a little surging as well but that is do to the power to weight ratio. I chose the best settings I could find to minimize this.
One other thing to note if you select any of the 4 cylinder Engine setups will make the initial on surge pretty big. Just a warning.

If there are any questions or something I missed let me know and I'll edit it to add or correct things.

shewie

Thanks, beestoys, for an excellent article. Very well done. You made it look so easy even a caveman could do it.

__________________
If you don't like the way I ride then stay off the sidewalk.

beestoys

Hope so
If anyone needs help drop me a line.

beestoys

Still playing with the setup I have noticed a little surge but nothing bad. Very rare but if it starts to get to big I have found that rolling up the throttle just above the setpoint then coming back down slowly settles it. If I find a better setting I'll update. But so far it makes the 40 mile trek to work a lot smoother

beestoys

Ok here is the latest update went back and did some adjusting and talked to Tom at Rostra.
It is very important to get the cable slack at 1/8 of an inch it helps to keep the surge under control.
I also redid the control settings after talking to Tom. I set the Engine / Set Up Timer to 8 cylinder low and reset the Gain to Extra Low. This removed the runaway surge I was experiencing.
There still is still some surge on the initial setting, depending on your speed it will be more pronounced. Which makes sense as our bikes make better power as the rpm goes up. What it works out is a surge at 70 of about 3-5 mph for a split second. You may get as many as 6 pulses till it settles but they are very small compared to the first. They are so minor I had to try it a few times to be sure of the number. The most I counted was 6, it usually settles after the initial surge.
Again just letting everyone no so there is no surprise when it first comes on.

Resume can do the same thing I have only noticed if I come in lower that the set speed some times. If you come in high it settles very quickly.

Up and down steps with the accel and coast settings are about 1mph for each time you hit the switch.

The last thing I will be trying is to up the pulse counter to 24000 from the 19300 it was initially set at. It was another fix Tom recommended if it still surged after checking the slack and making the 2 above adjustments.

beestoys

Added thumbnails, the link for the full size photo is below it if you need the full detail.


Thanks to Shewie and Heisti for showing me how to get the thumbnails on.

beestoys

OK this should be the last update from me on this.
Made the last change by switching over to the 24000 pulses per mode rate and it took out all but a very minor burp when it first comes up. But then it immediately settles to speed. So that is the last change to the install. Hope someone else can use this and enjoys it as much as I do. Again if you have any questions drop me a line

V/R
Brian

shewie

Thanks again. This is quite excellent and I hope to do this mod during the next winter interlude.

__________________
If you don't like the way I ride then stay off the sidewalk.

ArmyStrong

Excellent!

Though I wouldn't dare.

__________________
Murphys 6th law of combat operations:
If it's stupid but it works, it ain't stupid.

beestoys

Good idea that will give you time to get all the pieces together. It will take a couple days to get it all done taking your time to get everything right. you'll want to make sure the 4 pin connector coming down from the control switch is a little closer to the engine. Mine was fine but I would move it a little farther down to make tucking it easier.

Look up the divider on ebay I think I saw one for a bit cheaper than I paid.

shewie

Okay, will do.

__________________
If you don't like the way I ride then stay off the sidewalk.

JP7

Excellent article, and just in time as I want to have one of these in and sorted out for a 12 hour LD rally coming up here in September...

Question: I've seen setups here running the Audiovox CC-100 vacuum unit and not bothering with the VSS signal, just running off the tach. Did you consider or explore that option with this unit? Would save having to buy the signal divider for the VSS.
Also, you claim to not use the Dark Blue tach signal wire in this setup.
What happens if you pull the clutch in while the cruise is on... how would the unit know to shut off and not send the engine revving to the limiter?
You do mention replacing the dark blue with a red wire, where does that go? Please pardon my ignorance if I missed something here...

__________________
Ian

beestoys

And there is no such thing as ignorance I tried to set this up to be as simple as possible your questions only help me to refine the procedure for others

V/R
Brian

JP7

Thanks Beestoys!
I`ll be sure to post up some details on my version once it`s done.

__________________
Ian

slowride

Throttle Meister cruise control. Took about 15 min. to install. Looks great, works great. Cost is around 140 to 150 dollars & worth every penny, check it out.

beestoys

Agreed
But if your pulling a hill take a heavy head wind or come up behind a truck you will have to adjust. The cruise is a set and relax as it will adjust for these variables. Nothing wrong with the throttle meister if you just need a throttle lock and don't mind the above action.

RXX

I've got one also. Looks great, works great.
CC is a totally different animal though and is by FAR superior to a throttle lock.
My Audiovox cost $30 + installation costs (figure 3-6 pax X $5.49 = $20)
Mine is wired to VSS

beestoys

RXX
Perhaps if you get the time do a quick piece on how you got the VSS hooked up. If its the vaccum unit most are installing they usually use the tach input. It would be a great addition for folks to know how it is wired and works for you.

RXX

I don't quite remember, I was drinking pretty heavy at the time. Stuff that complicated scares me and ethanol gives me courage. Must have been pretty straightforward, cause I ain't a rocket scientist and it works.

beestoys

Ahhh
Beergogglitis
Well if you figure it out there would be a lot of happy folks.

RXX

The VSS sensor has 2 wires coming out the top of the transmission housing. Splice into it, and voila! It is hooked up. Some people here probably already have thier Pro-oiler hooked up to said sensor. That's all I did.

beestoys

Cool
Didn't know if it would work without a divider but apparently it will. I know my electronic unit had it have it to be able to process the signal rate.

peeramonxx

You have gone to a lot of trouble to put this together well done. I am looking at doing this mod , are you still happy with it?
Peeramonxx

beestoys

You betcha
And it's a riot at times, my youngest has been riding with me to work on the passenger pillion. We have HOV (High Occupancy Vehicle) lanes here and the local highway patrol set to catch people driving in the lane without any passengers with them. Well I make a habit of waving to other riders including the police. My son says he can see the look on thier face. They have a puzzled look when I wave at them with my throttle hand as the bike is accelerating.

Banshee

Naughty, but when there is little other traffic around, you can really surprise some cagers by sitting on the pillion seat with your hands around an invisible rider...

Don't ask, I deny everything!

ChiefUno

wow....this article looks great....will read later when I have the time

__________________
vir prudens non contra ventum mingit

Ancilla Face Mea Leganum

beestoys

Hmmm
Not that I will try that now.
If you have any questions Chief drop me a line be happy to help. Greatmod and it had been well worth it.

peeramonxx

So no dropouts or touchy throttle response. Have to ask as i'm ready to order and am hearing lots of ( you'll be sorry ) so just want to be sure.

beestoys

None
Gave my latest update in the post nothing has changed in its operation. Just be sure to get the slack correct 1/8 inch makes all the difference in the world as to how it operates. The only thing I have noticed is the surge I mention sometimes when its activated. It's not much but there and is not a worry as the unit adjust very fast and trims the speed back immediately. It seems to be more pronounced if I hit the activate as the speed is coming down. I am sure this is because I am anticipating the cruise to take over and roll off the throttle slightly. I have activated it with a more steady wrist and the surge is almost non existent. Again it is a non issue because as I mentioned the unit picks up and corrects very quickly.

peeramonxx

Thanks beestoys , will order asap.May have some questions on install