BackStreet

Suspension for dummies:

If you have your heart set on that shock, 6mm shim there (good one), these valves, this spring - go get it all and put it on. You will still need to set the bike up properly.

Set the sag (how much the bike goes down when you get on) with full gear and normal load to 32-36 mm. If you use a tank bag with a laptop and tend to keep your fuel near full (otherwise use ½ tank); that is the weight you should set your sag. If you ride two up with luggage sometimes get a setting both ways. You will likely need a couple of bros to help you. There are whole web sites on how to measure sag. If you can’t adjust it right you have to change springs and start over.

Ride the bike around a while to warm up the suspension. Next, go 10mph and brake hard. If the bike dives down immediately add some compression damping. You don’t want the bike to lurch; it should take a second to reach the low position smoothly.

Once the bike stops the forks should return smoothly to the rest position and not go up and down. Some may prefer to go slightly past rest and come down to rest but it should not oscillate (go up – down - up). Adjust the rebound damping. If you don’t have enough adjustment or don’t have adjusters, you can adjust the oil. Thinner oil will allow more rebound. Thicker oil will dampen the rebound more.

Sit hard on the rear and adjust the compression damping so it goes down smoothly and not directly to the bottom. Bounce on the rear and adjust the rebound so you can’t get an oscillation (the bike should come to a rest when you stop bouncing in one motion or two max.)

Transition the bike from throttle to brake to throttle to brake. You should feel the oil in a fluid transition, not a rocking horse, smooth. Hit a bump small. Your butt should stay in the saddle and the tires should stay on the road. If you get this all working you are in pretty good shape.

Change to the tires you want to use. Break them in. Adjust the pressure. Ride at least a few hundred miles. Start to make notes on what you don’t like about the way the bike handles. Find a corner where you have a good example of what you do not like; use these to test your results. Write your notes down. Write down your settings.

Now start to MAKE ADJUSTMENTS ONE AT A TIME. Take your #1 problem and come on here or go to a local expert and see what change should solve that problem. Try and go too far (too hard / too soft) and then go in the middle. Prior to spending money, make sure your expected results will actually address your problems.

ArmyStrong

Nice write up! I'll let you's know!

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SuperPhil

Ha...I wish I knew how to do ANY of those things. I wouldn't even know where to start.

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CanadianBird

I'll just take mine to a suspension Guru.

TheDuck

IMO its a good write up, the only thing that I would add is that your suspension has to be in good condition to get the benefits ................ the Bird being particularly heavy on its front springs where there is no adjustment as standard.

Oh and the police in Britain do not enjoy you circulating roundabouts even if it is 6am on a Sunday

TigreST

Some vid footage on the process as seen by one bike tuner.

YouTube - SCUDMAN Suspension Setup Demo 1/2

YouTube - SCUDMAN Suspension Setup Demo 2/2

and more here:

YouTube - Basic Suspension setup


YouTube - Setting Your Motorcycle's Suspension Sag With Keith Code


These liinks will take you to many others on the topic.

Sometimes it's nice to have pictures..moving or stills...to connect the test to the process.

Tony

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BackStreet

This is what you do if you are not a dummy.

Thanks for the useful link guys.

BackStreet

I should add to look in the manual to determine which adjustments you have, where they are, and how to make them. If you have an aftermarket parts, look on it, in the papers it came with, or on their web site.

X1rider

I have experimented with valving, oil types and thickness, and spring weights. The custom valving was done (not a Race Tech part, just larger holes drilled in the stock valves and the shim stack adjusted accordingly, wish I had gotten the Gold Valve), damping rods drilled to flow more, and sag set.

Recently, I tried the Race Tech .9kg springs with US2 synthetic oil, and have determined this is the best set up for me. Rides very smooth on the slab soaking up washboard bumps, steers quickly, and handles better than ever before. The harshness is gone and that suits me now since I seem to be riding more slab covering longer distances at this time. Going on a twisty run next Tuesday however, to north GA, TN, NC, GA. That's the plan anyway........

smurf211

I figured this would be the best place to add this: I just had an estimate for a front end rebuild from the pro shop I've been talking to. I'm looking at springs, rebound, gold valves, seals, oil and labor for right at $700.00. The guy doing the work and I both weigh about 250 so it will be easy for him to set it up. I explained my riding style and we both feel it's a good setup. I have no experience with suspension components and I don't really want to experiment. How does this sound to you guys? This is a preferred bike pro shop and the place is packed with 600, 750, 1000, Ohlins on all of them or so it seems. All the components are coming from Racetech. Thanks for the feedback. // sm

smurf211

Just to elaborate a little the price list is as follows:
Gold compression valves $145
Rebound valves $145
1 kg springs $100
oil, seals, 3 hrs labor $225

The guy is that is going to do the work has an excellent reputation for sport bike suspension setup. Just thought I split this out a little. Some go with the springs and oil first and add the gold valves as an added feature. Haven't seen much about the rebound valves in previous write ups. Still kicking this around and haven't accumulated the cash but it's still cheaper than other alternatives (Ohlins, TD, etc.). // sm

Banshee

I only have the rebound valves in the forks as they told me the OEM compression were sufficient. After the work; springs (um, .95 or 1kg I think ) & spacers, Gold rebound valves, oil (5wt Motech) & seals. Even without the Gold compression valve, I find they are MUCh better now.

All up including labour, it cost me ~$1200AUD, but that was including the 900rr rear rebuild at the same time.

dilligaf57

I have no clue what you guys are talking about. I must really be a dumba@@.

I think I'm with CB and need to find a pro.

Smurf let me know how that set up works out for you when you get it done. I am about the same weight a little less but close enough and I can try to use your info.

smurf211

57 et al...

I have realized that this is a very specific and exacting science. Unless you have had exposure to the specific design characteristics / concepts of some of the vendors products via training or research and hands on, your best bet is to get some help. I have spent quite a bit of time researching, reading and exchanging info here and have come to realize that a lot of this information is proprietary which explains the limited availability. Even Racetech is sending me a DVD that covers a set of forks for a dirt bike dated 1993.

Next is degree of involvement in your suspension setup, either financially or individually, or both. You have to ask yourself what do you NEED. Do you need an Ohlins $$$ for the track, a Penske $$ for sport and sport/touring, or will a rework of what you have for a slight improvement and general overhaul for a medium intensity upgrade suffice $.

Try and narrow down to the fundamentals of what you need, start off with a general upgrade and add as you discover necessity. After raking through all of this I am beginning to think that the front can do with springs, spacers, and lower viscosity oil. You can add valves later if you deem them necessary. As far as the rear, I went for a ride today and really pushed my suspension. I have realized something isn't quite right with my front susp. The rear needs work due to my size (spring rate). If you want adjustability, that has been discussed. But a spring to match your weight and a re-valve and rework would probably more than suffice.

Don't feel like a dummy because you are not a suspension expert. It takes time, research, and a desire to understand. The question is- what do you really need to accomplish your goal. There are varying degrees of complexity and cost.