Take it for what you willÖI donít claim to be a mechanic, nor a professional grease monkey in any form. This may be helpful, or not, just thought I would post it as Iím an idiot and cantí access www.superblackbird.com
Also, I assume that you will have more technical ability than I do, and will already have the tools required to perform an oil change: Shop rags, oil pan, oil, oil filter, 17mm socket wrench (I found a shallow socket better than a deep socket), an oil filter tool (mine was useless, do NOT use the type featured in the photo).
I donít think my pics will be as clear as I would like them to be, but hopefully they will be of use.
I had my XX set on the center stand. I believe youíll still be able to do the same thing without a center stand, but it may be a smidge more difficult.
First, run the bike for a few minutes to get the oil warmed and flowing. I ran it till the exhaust manifold was putting off some good heatÖit was about 3 minutes.
Shut off your bike and let the pipes cool down for a few minutes, the oil will still be warm.
Your drain plug on the crankcase is very easy to find. It sits at the lowest point under the bike, about 12 inches from the back of the front tire.
Slide your oil pan close to the plug, and use the 17mm socket to break the bolt loose. NOTE: Use caution as you wonít want to knock the bird of her perch. Itís doubtful that will happen, but be careful.
Move your oil pan in place and be ready to catch the oil once your hand loosens the bolt. Keep an eye on where the oil is falling, it will work itís way back toward the rear as the flow decreases. Do NOT replace oil plug until later, Iíll explain why.
Directly above the plug, about 5 inches, is your oil filter. Your pipes may still be warm to the touch, but you should be able to get a good grip going in from the throttle side of the bike. Your oil filter tool is your best bet, but if youíre incompetent like me and didnít realize your oil filter wrench wonít work, you may be able to hand power it free.
Of course, there will be oil in your filter, and it will run down the crankcase and drip into your oil pan, be prepared for it.
With the used oil filter off, check to ensure the rubber O ring came with it. 99% of the time it will, but that 1% could nip you down the road.
Break out the new filter, and lightly rub some of that new lube on the rubber O ring to give it a good seal. Be weary of a sharp edge (depending on filter) inside the O ring...I figured this one out pretty quick.
Slide your hand back up to where the oil filter stem is so that youíll have an idea of where to thread the filter. Slide the filter on, but if you donít get a good seat, donít force it. I had to roll it to the left until I felt a good seat, then thread to the right and tighten to spec.
With the oil filter back in place, put your oil drain plug back into place. By keeping the oil drain plug off until now, it prevented the oil from the filter to cover it in old oil. A manufacturerís note recommends replacing the washer on the plug every other oil change.
Your bottom end is secure, letís go put some oil back in. 4.1 quarts was what my owners manual recommended. I had only purchased 4 qts, and after checking the stick, it looked to be at the proper level (whew).
After putting in the new oil and tightening up the cap, give the dipstick a quick check (remember to wipe, then stick and check again). If your levels are good, fire her up and check for leaks. After a few minutes, if no leaks are discovered, turn her off, and recheck the level. If all looks good (no leaks, level is good) taker her for a quick spin, and yes, check again.
Itís probably a good idea to read through your owners manual before attempting the oil change. It does recommend to remove the left fairing, but you can save time by going elbow deep.
If you do remove the fairing, order some fairing plugs from Johnís Bike Bits prior to oil change, youíll be happy you did.
I hope this helped, and Good Luck!