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Old 04-07-2009, 8:05 PM   #1
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How to change your oil.

Take it for what you will…I don’t claim to be a mechanic, nor a professional grease monkey in any form. This may be helpful, or not, just thought I would post it as I’m an idiot and cant’ access www.superblackbird.com

Also, I assume that you will have more technical ability than I do, and will already have the tools required to perform an oil change: Shop rags, oil pan, oil, oil filter, 17mm socket wrench (I found a shallow socket better than a deep socket), an oil filter tool (mine was useless, do NOT use the type featured in the photo).

I don’t think my pics will be as clear as I would like them to be, but hopefully they will be of use.

I had my XX set on the center stand. I believe you’ll still be able to do the same thing without a center stand, but it may be a smidge more difficult.

First, run the bike for a few minutes to get the oil warmed and flowing. I ran it till the exhaust manifold was putting off some good heat…it was about 3 minutes.

Shut off your bike and let the pipes cool down for a few minutes, the oil will still be warm.

Your drain plug on the crankcase is very easy to find. It sits at the lowest point under the bike, about 12 inches from the back of the front tire.

Slide your oil pan close to the plug, and use the 17mm socket to break the bolt loose. NOTE: Use caution as you won’t want to knock the bird of her perch. It’s doubtful that will happen, but be careful.

Move your oil pan in place and be ready to catch the oil once your hand loosens the bolt. Keep an eye on where the oil is falling, it will work it’s way back toward the rear as the flow decreases. Do NOT replace oil plug until later, I’ll explain why.

Directly above the plug, about 5 inches, is your oil filter. Your pipes may still be warm to the touch, but you should be able to get a good grip going in from the throttle side of the bike. Your oil filter tool is your best bet, but if you’re incompetent like me and didn’t realize your oil filter wrench won’t work, you may be able to hand power it free.

Of course, there will be oil in your filter, and it will run down the crankcase and drip into your oil pan, be prepared for it.

With the used oil filter off, check to ensure the rubber O ring came with it. 99% of the time it will, but that 1% could nip you down the road.

Break out the new filter, and lightly rub some of that new lube on the rubber O ring to give it a good seal. Be weary of a sharp edge (depending on filter) inside the O ring...I figured this one out pretty quick.

Slide your hand back up to where the oil filter stem is so that you’ll have an idea of where to thread the filter. Slide the filter on, but if you don’t get a good seat, don’t force it. I had to roll it to the left until I felt a good seat, then thread to the right and tighten to spec.

With the oil filter back in place, put your oil drain plug back into place. By keeping the oil drain plug off until now, it prevented the oil from the filter to cover it in old oil. A manufacturer’s note recommends replacing the washer on the plug every other oil change.

Your bottom end is secure, let’s go put some oil back in. 4.1 quarts was what my owners manual recommended. I had only purchased 4 qts, and after checking the stick, it looked to be at the proper level (whew).

After putting in the new oil and tightening up the cap, give the dipstick a quick check (remember to wipe, then stick and check again). If your levels are good, fire her up and check for leaks. After a few minutes, if no leaks are discovered, turn her off, and recheck the level. If all looks good (no leaks, level is good) taker her for a quick spin, and yes, check again.

It’s probably a good idea to read through your owners manual before attempting the oil change. It does recommend to remove the left fairing, but you can save time by going elbow deep.

If you do remove the fairing, order some fairing plugs from John’s Bike Bits prior to oil change, you’ll be happy you did.

I hope this helped, and Good Luck!
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg Barely Warmed Up.jpeg (44.4 KB, 113 views)
File Type: jpeg Oil Drain Plug.jpeg (48.0 KB, 181 views)
File Type: jpeg Oil Filter - Plug.jpeg (55.7 KB, 176 views)
File Type: jpeg Oil Filter and Exhaust.jpeg (34.2 KB, 145 views)
File Type: jpeg Filter Throttle Side.jpeg (49.9 KB, 154 views)
File Type: jpeg The O Ring.jpeg (53.2 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpeg New Lube Filter 1.jpeg (52.4 KB, 122 views)
File Type: jpeg New Lube Filter 2.jpeg (50.3 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpeg 17MM.JPEG (51.9 KB, 117 views)
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Old 04-07-2009, 8:59 PM   #2
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Re: How to change your oil.

Good write up.

The only thing I do differently is to fill the new oil filter with oil first (you have to be quick when putting the new filter on or else dome oil will drip out). Doing this means that when you start your engine for the first time, you dont have the gap in lubrication whilst the filter is filled with oil.

I dont have a filter wrench, so if I cant undo the filter by hand, I resort to punching a screwdrivwer through the filter casing and loosening it enough to undo it by hand. I only ever do up my filter by hand.
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Old 04-08-2009, 5:56 AM   #3
 
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Re: How to change your oil.

I would add that the oil shoots about 8" forward when the drain first opens. Be prepared.

Used oil is also dangerous so you should wear plastic gloves. Recycle your used oil. Never dump it on the ground or down a drain.
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Old 04-08-2009, 3:33 PM   #4
 
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Re: How to change your oil.

Gloves those dish washing kind not the real thin mechanics type. Really help if the oil is hotter than you thought. Wipe em down when your done and you've got em for the next time. // sm
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Old 04-08-2009, 5:54 PM   #5
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Re: How to change your oil.

now THIS is what i wish more threads would be like... GOOD JOB!!!!! love it
ps... you might wanna add band aids to your tool box LOL
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:50 PM   #6
 
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Re: How to change your oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathWish01 View Post
u might wanna add band aids to your tool box LOL
Ohhhh yes nothing hurts worse then taking off the oil plug and it sliping and smashing your hand on the headers.
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:54 PM   #7
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Re: How to change your oil.

Pepper is excellent for stopping a bad knuckle bleed.
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Old 04-27-2009, 6:15 PM   #8
 
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Re: How to change your oil.

K&N make an oil filter with a socket attachment on the front (from memory 14mm) No more messing about with puncturing or hand wringing.
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Old 04-27-2009, 6:39 PM   #9
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Re: How to change your oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shewie View Post
Pepper is excellent for stopping a bad knuckle bleed.
pepper? ouchie
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Old 04-27-2009, 9:18 PM   #10
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Re: How to change your oil.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shewie View Post
Pepper is excellent for stopping a bad knuckle bleed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathWish01 View Post
pepper? ouchie
Not at all. It's not like salt. There's something in pepper that causes blood to coagulate and it doesn't hurt.
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Old 04-27-2009, 9:30 PM   #11
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Re: How to change your oil.

that's right it's an old chef trick it works,and for those who burn their calf with the exhaust if you ride with shorts (do i do that?...hmm no i don't pfff) or have sunburn ,use olive oil it's much better than any chemical cream you buy at the pharmacy,your skin won't peel if you aply some regularly
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