ConqSoft

Submitted by: abtech

First of all, I use a technique that I learned several years ago from a gentleman who knew much more than I when it came to working on your bike ("Pops" Yoshimura). The technique described here works great on the 929 or any other bike that has the same overall swingarm length when measured from the center of the swingarm pivot bolt to the end of the swingarm.
To adjust the chain, you will need the following tools:

1 each 32 mm socket wrench
1 each Torque wrench
2 each 12 mm open end wrench
1 each small "T" edge
1 each Rear Stand


chain1_LG.jpg


Step 1

Put the bike up on the rear stand and clean the area around the rear axle and chain adjusters. Using the 32 mm socket wrench, loosen the rear axle nut until it is loose enough to move the axle in the swingarm slots by moving the rear wheel/tire.


Step 2

From the rear of the bike, grab the rear wheel and pull it back away from the engine. Sight down the chain to make certain the chain is approximately straight.
Using both 12 mm open end wrenches, loosen the chain adjuster lock nut (the one toward the front).


Step 3

On the chain (left) side of the bike, using one 12 mm open end wrench, turn the chain adjuster bolt (the one toward the rear) counter clockwise until the chain has approximately 1.75" of total slack when moved up and down below the swingarm. This is a rough measurement, as you now go to the other side and make the same approximate number of turns on the right side adjuster.
NOTE: When measuring chain slack, the idea is to measure the chain approximately mid way between the sprockets and measure the total distance when the chain is pushed toward the swingarm and pulled away from the swingarm. Use a link pin as a reference. When getting to your final adjustment, rotate the rear wheel and check the chain at it's loosest and tightest points, as the measured slack will change as the wheel is rotated.


Step 4
chain figure4 large.jpgchain3_LG.jpg

Recheck the chain slack and adjust both sides until the chain again has approximately 1.75" of total slack. Now with the "T" edge, measure the chain (left) side from the rear of the swingarm to the adjuster block and then do the same on the right side, adjusting it to match the reading from the left. Measure the chain slack again and adjust as needed until both sides are exactly the same and the chain has roughly 1.75" total slack measured midway below the swingarm.


Step 5

Take the bike off of the stand and have someone sit on the bike and measure the slack again at its tightest and loosest points. Adjust both sides as required, making certain that your final adjustment is identical on both sides when measured with the "T" edge and the chain has no more than 2.0" total slack and no less than 1.6" total slack. Tighten the chain adjuster lock nuts with a 12 mm open end wrench while holding the adjuster bolt with the other 12 mm wrench. Make certain you don't "readjust" the bolts while tightening.
Place the bike back on the stand and torque the rear axle nut to 83 Ft Lbs. (113 N-m).

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antonroland

You guys rock for all the info in this forum!

I would just like to ask (as I got a reading of 105 Nm of torque on the rear axle bolt from my local dealer and I don't trust them THAT much anymore...)

What do you Birders say? Is 105 too little given the 113 prescribed in here?

Is there really that much difference between 105 and 113?

Your thoughts please.

Thanks and much appreciated as always!!

CanadianBird

You realize you're responding to a thread that is over three years old.

ascar

ah the old ones are the best ones. and there is no time limit on learning

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CanadianBird

Absolutely!

antonroland

Yeah, I know

But before I get accused of being too lazy to use the search function I thought I'd see what the search gave me.

Here's hoping that the torque required didn't change in the last three years either

shewie

My handy dandy service manual calls for 93 Nm for the axle nut. The only thing that approaches 105Nm is the steering stem nut at 103Nm.

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CanadianBird

At least you didn't sell your Bird and buy a BSA.

Nutter67

I have just purchased one of these. It is so simple it is scary.

Moto-Tech:Laser Wheel Alignment

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Paul

Never let a motorcycle take you somewhere your brain didn't get to three seconds earlier

antonroland

Sorry for responding now only but did download service manual off this site thanks to some very nice member who made it available.

Torqued the rear wheel axle bolt to 93 Nm after straightening the rear wheel and now sweet.

Was nowhere near 93 Nm to start with and to think I pushed her past 200 km/h with a potentially loose rear axle bolt

Oh did I mention, this is how I got her back from a major 48K at the local dealer?

BackStreet

How did something so simple get so complicated? The laser looks cool. Did anyone find that the marks on the swing are are off?

Besides, steps 1-4 have to be repeated in step 5. You have to measure with your dressed weight in the saddle or being so precise does not matter.

Step 2 is wrong. Don't pull the wheel back; push if forward. Pull it back and the chain side with stop first, the chain will be tight, and the wheel with be cocked.

If your chain gets tighter and looser as your rotate the tire, get a new chain or at least lube the hell out of it, ride and then re-test.

One important note: You always want to be pulling the rear back with the adjusters turning each one equally. Keep some amount of tightness on the axle bolt so it just slides but can't move around. Otherwise the adjuster may not be fully seated.

PS: If you get the chain too tight, back the adjusters off a few turns, push the wheel forward, get it even and come back again. You cannot just loosen the adjuster on a tight chain.

XelX

$79 for a laser pointer no thanks you can get a laser pointer for less than $5.00
and achieve the same result

P.S. I'm ultra broke so anything above $ 10 is like what the !@#$! sometimes I'm wondering how did I end up buying a bird

Form copy/past

I went to Home Depot and bought a laser level mounted on a compass base. I put it on a square of wood to level/straighten it and use the floor jack for height behind the sprocket. It shoots a straight line from rear to front sproket...Poor people have poor ways..

Motion Pro Chain Alignment Tool - KneeDraggers.com