This looks good
I'm off to get a switch and some wire and have a go at the weekend..
Progress report to follow
DC
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This looks good
I'm off to get a switch and some wire and have a go at the weekend..
Progress report to follow
DC
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I'm considering doing this mod so I thought I'd work out just how close this is to overloading things.
Disclaimer: I haven't actually tested this, it's all just theory so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
Not entirely sure on the US spec birds, but the Euro (and Aus) spec birds are as follows:
The front and rear turn signals, brake lights (NOT including tail lights), horn, and 'passing' switch (where fitted) are all on the same fuse.
This is a 10 Amp fuse.
The 'passing' switch is just used to trigger a relay so current draw should be minimal.
Turn signal and brake light bulbs are 21 Watts each.
4 x turn signals + 2 x brake lights = 126 Watts.
So there is about 9 Amps (Assuming 13.5V present. Watts/Volts=Amps).
I'm not sure what the horn draws but if it is over 9 Watts (which I imagine it is) you could be in for some trouble under certain cirumstances.
E.G. If you have your 'hazard lights' on AND your brake lights AND you sound your horn, you'll possibly overload it and blow the fuse.
Remember, this is all assuming 13.5 volts.
If your engine is off and your battery is a little low (12.5 volts), just the Hazard lights and brake lights might be enough to blow the fuse.
It's still a useful mod, and I'll still be doing it on my bird, but this is just something to consider before doing the mod.![]()
Thanks for this tip.
I tried it on my '97 last weekend and has worked beautfully.
Thanks for all the tips. Great site.
Good Tip, Here's another tip for hazards. I used this one as i didn't see the one described before. They are both very good tips. i found this a couple years ago i think. works well and less to do for time savings.
While at Hot Springs I had a few people ask me how I wired up my 4 way flashers. Rather than a long technical explanation I decided to draw the diagram and point out the hook up points.
This entire project took all of 1 hour to install including drilling the hole for the switch. I placed my switch on the top of the left side cover of my Road Star. Total cost for parts is about $13.00
Refer to the Diagram:
One side of the fuse holder goes to the POSITIVE side of the battery.
The other side goes to the Flasher can, the NON-load side of the flasher .
The other terminal on the flasher, the LOAD (L) side, goes to one set of switch leads which are jumped together upon the Double Pole Single Throw switch (DPST)
The other switch leads get tapped into the wiring that is going into the rear fender. (These wires can be seen with the seat removed and they are just behind the battery on the left-hand side.)
One wire is tapped into the Chocolate wire, (brown-Left), the other is tapped into the Dark Green wire, (Right).
The flashers should be operational now.
(Remember since they are wired into the Positive side of the battery, they are unaffected by the Ignition switch. They will remain on with key turned to off position. If left on for extended periods of time you will drain the battery.)
note: I just remove the fuse when i'm not riding.
4wayflash1bg.jpg4wayflash2bg.jpg4wayflash3bg.jpg4wayflash4bg.jpg
Last edited by lexxus; 06-23-2011 at 7:29 PM.
I must say this was the fastest mod ive ever doneWell said and done Sir. The wiring tucked in just fine witout any visible wires. Just one question that I had.. How do i get the lights to flash brighter as they tend to go dim when the hazards are engaged. I do understand it needs a new flash relay but i wasnt able to source the right relay that fits on the bird. I ended up gettin a led flash relay by mistake.
Any help as to where I cud find a suitable relay in and around melbourne?
Thanks heaps
Prasad