beestoys

Get the weight of the bike off the front tire. Just enough to keep it unloaded but not off the ground. Support it well to keep it from tipping. You can use the center stand just be sure to tie it off so that the bike won't fall forward. Leave your axle bolt tight on the wheel. Remove your handle bar slip ons. Loosen all of your triple clamp bolts upper and lower and turn the fork tubes. This should release any binding. Then check your fork tubes at the top of the upper triple to make sure they are the same distance to the top of the tube sticking out. Tighten everything back up and take her for a spin and see if it helps. I would also do the string check off the front tire to the back to make sure like Banshee mentioned just for an added confirmation.
The str8 edge may work but it easier to pull the tube and roll it across a flat surface. I have seen tubes bend at the triple and be str8 for the rest of the length and you can't see it with a str8 edge.

wowerman

Ok.That make sense maybe one fork is bent just by the clamp and never notice it.
Last time I have took forks off bike have turned fork tubes and they were turning without any problems.Can do it again,but to be 100% sure I think I have to roll fork tubes on glass or flat surface.
One more thing.If bike has been involved in accident and you want to check frame,what do you have to look at?
Again,I've been in Honda service and they checked frame with laser tools,it is straight.
I'm getting confused what is right.
One more thing.What point you take as visual reference to be sure that front wheel is in line with frame and rear tyre?

Misipi97

Try these tests while riding (as straight as possible) on a smooth level surface and check if any of these conditions amplify the problem. And post the results please. And be careful.

1) Hard acceleration and downshifting.
2) At speed, grip the bike with your knees and legs, take your weight off of the handlebars and firmly (as safety permits) apply just the front breaks.
3) Same test as number 2 but apply just the rear brake.
It may be beneficial to have someone follow you while you perform these tests to watch your bikes posture. They may see something occur that can't be recognized while on the bike. Of course if you do have someone follow you...check your break light first.

__________________
"Keep it between the mayonnaise and the mustard.
And stay out of the salad bar".

beestoys

Thinking if they laser-ed it you should feel confident it is straight. Now i guess the next question is how did they do this? But I have a feeling that would take a long post to explain. Recommend you just run through the advice here and let us know what you find.

Banshee

I found that if the rear is not pointing straight, the bike will tend to start turning. With my rear aimed a couple of degrees to the right, (lined up on the same adjustment marks on each side), it tries to turn left if I take my hands off the bars. Regardless of camber.

wowerman

Ok.Yesterday I did ride my bb and I took weight form handlebars,tryed to accelerate,speed up.If I accererate bike or not(does not matter)bike turns left.If I sit down more on right hand side of sit bike then bb goes straight.
I want to see my front suspension again,take off,roll front forks on glass and if they are fine then it is nothing left that selling my bb.There is no pleasure to ride it.

Banshee

Yep, that is what I found with mine. If I moved my weight sufficeintly to the right, it would go straight, otherwise it would go left. Adjusting the rear using a stringline to verify alignment sorted it out.

deadman

I use two planks of dead straight wood, longer than the bike, I put them on blocks (bricks) To get them as high up the wheels with out fouling any thing, One each side of the bike. The back wheel is touching Front and back of the tyre to the planks, Both sides of bike, Then square the front wheel to one of the planks, equal measurement front and back of the front wheel,
The other side of the front wheel should be the exact measurement both sides, front and back of the front wheel.
Adjust your rear wheel a tiny bit at a time, checking that the higher measurements at the front wheel are moving towards being equal with the lower measurement on the other side of the front wheel.
Make sure the Planks are touching the back wheel, front and back and both sides of the wheel, at all times.
Every time you adjust the rear wheel, you will have to move the planks at the back to make sure they are touching the wheel again.

When the planks are touching the rear wheel, front and back equally.
The measurements both sides of the front wheel, both sides, front and back of the wheel, will all be the same measurement,

Closer to the axle line the better, you can put your planks away from the rear tyre, but you must measure the distance from the rear tyre, front and back both sides, and they must be exactly the same.

Make sure your chain adjustment is done first,

Its a pain in the butt doing this, A lot of fiddling around, But your wheels will be dead in line and the effort is worth it,

Put bike on centre stand first, use a couple of bricks ,one front and back of the front wheel to stop it moving sideways as you measure it.

If your bike wobbles at 200 clicks or above, or vears to one side or the other, your wheels are not in line.

All my bikes ran perfectly true using this method, and I have done over one million miles in my 45 years of riding.

Takes about one hour, from start to finish.

One or two millimetres out is not good enough. it has to be exactly the same measurements all round, and both sides.

Tighten the rear axle each time before measuring.

Cheers,
Brian.

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

deadman

Your wheels are not in line, You should be able to be doing 200 klms/per hour, take your hands off the bars and it will still run dead straight.

If it vears, either way, your wheels are out of line.

Just lift your hands up off the bars a bit, hold your tank with your knees,

My Bonnie chopper, I had a full back rest on it, and I could sit back with my arms folded, with the twist grip screwed up, at 200 klms per hour, on the slabs of course.

Brian.

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

wowerman

Thanks Brian.
My question is.If someone had crash with this bike and i do not know about it I will never get my BB going straight.
I would like to check frame and front suspension again.
I am frustrated.Sell it or not.There is no peasure to ride it.

deadman

No one will tell you they have dropped a bike when they are trying to sell it to you.
I have dropped plenty of bikes, I have the scars to match, hahahahahah
The frame will only be bent or twisted if it has hit something hard,
The proverbial, sudden stop.
If you have had the frame checked and it is still straight.
It will be wheels out of line, bent forks, twisted swing arm.
Twisted swing arm is rare, does not happen very often, hard sideways contact with car does this, and usually writes of the bike totally, and rider as well.

Every time you adjust the chain, you must realine both front and back wheels,

one quarter of a turn on your back wheel adjusters, will throw the alignment of your wheels out of whack,

They must be exactly the same measurements as described in my plank post.

Front forks, roll them on a dead flat surface, if they roll into the same position every time, they are bent, replace them, Its like putting a weight on a wheel and spinning it, the wheel will always stop with the weight on the bottom.
Sometimes the bend is not noticeable to the naked eye, but rolling them on the flat surface will pick up the distortion.

Swingarm.
Put your bike on the centre stand, on level ground. get a two foot square, and put it against the front and back wheels both sides, The measurements should be the same front and back, If the bike is on a slight lean, the measurements each side will still be the same.
allowing for lean,Top might be 10mm, bottom might be 2mm, other side of the wheel, bottom 10mm, top 2mm, if front and back wheels are the same, swingarm is correct and not bent.
Concrete slabs are never level. So put your square on a straight piece of wood at 90 degrees to the bike, wide enough so that the square sits on both sides with out moving the wood.
Sorry I am so long winded, piccys would have made it a bit easier, but it still needs the explanation,
If you need more info, please ask. I would like you to enjoy your bike, not sell it,
Cheers,
Brian.
PS: Phew,

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

wowerman

Brian,thank you for all info.There is a lot of it.
English is my second language.I did get everything with forks but not with square and swingarm.What is square made of?
Can you write easier about method with square please?
Thanks again.

deadman

It is a carpenters tool,
It is two peices of steel, one side, 18 inches long, One side, two feet long, Joined together at right angles of 90 degrees,

Any hardware store will show you one, Worth about $8-00 AUD

Ask for a two foot carpenters square, They will know what you are talking about.

I will take a piccy and post it up here later today, It will explain the words.
Brian,

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

MotoRacerGabe

I like the way you align your bike, I may have to get me some long pieces of wood to do this myself.
My bike was a slight shake around 100mph

deadman

These piccys are just to show how it is done, The square shown is not a two foot one, but a smaller one with a straight edge, I only had it sitting on a piece of tinplate.
To give it a bit of clarity,
Cheers,
Brian.

Attached Images

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__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

wowerman

From pictures i know what tool you're talking about,its 90 degree tool with bars on it.Basically You want to measure if there will be gap between top part of square and wheel and then you know if wheels are 90 degree to ground.Am I right?

deadman

Yes, the measurements are identical both sides of the rear and front wheels.
Make sure the boards you sit the square on, are level to each other as well
If front and back wheel are the same. your swing arm is true,
These measurements will still be the same, even if your wheels are out of line.

Then it is either the fronts forks bent, or the wheels out of line,

Try lining up the wheels first, If at 100 klms. you vear left or right when you take your hands off the bars, It can only be the wheels if your forks are straight and at the same height in the yokes.

Make sure your staunchions are parallel, line up one staunchion with the other, they should be dead in line. you can do this by looking across them with your eye. without the wheel and guard in,

Hope this info cures your problems.
Cheers,
Brian.

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

wowerman

I did measurements 20min ago.They are some pictures and details.
Back of rear tyre left hand side top of tyre about 10mm gap,right hand side bottom about 9mm gap.
Front tyre left hand side(looking from front of bike) bottom about 5mm,left hand side top of tyre about 5mm.
I have measured distance between swingarm axle to wheel axle and on both sides is 534mm.

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heisti

that makes brian the senior mechanic here :-)

master of nuts and bolts.

majesty of the holy wrench!

king of the welding cable.

__________________

wowerman

Looks like swing arm is bent.

deadman

On those measurements, the front is the same both sides, the rear is the same both sides,

I dont think your swing arm is bent,

over the height of the wheel, 1 mm on the rear measurement could be due to the level not being exactly level on the ground.

Or you turned the level. end for end when you did the other end of the bike.
Put the level on two bricks, one under each end, end for end the level, and it will show whether the level is accurate. The bubble should return to the same spot in the vial each time you turn it around.
If it doesn't. mark one end of the level. and keep the mark on the level on the same side of the bike each time you move from front to rear.
That way the level will always be the same.

Try the plank method to line up your wheels, dont forget that the front and rear wheels are different sizes,
The plank at the back wheel will be the same measurement front and back of the wheel, the front wheel measurement will be a different measurement to the rear wheel. but the front wheel measurement must be exactly the same both sides, front and rear of the front wheel.
Once you put the planks in place and move one of your adjusters on the rear wheel, you will see what I mean, it will move the measurements on the front wheel sideways.
Try it first to get the feel of how to do it, then it is just a matter of turning your adjusters to suit,
Forwards or backwards on the adjusters will eventually give you the same measurements, both sides on the front wheel.
Screwing your adjuster in, will either increase or decrease your measurements on the front wheel., just play with it, you will get the feel of it, and which way you need to screw it to make them the same.
Yes, it is bloody fiddly work, but once they are exactly the same measurements on your front wheel, both sides, your bike will run dead straight.
Cheers,
Brian.
.

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

deadman

But on computers, I am crap.
Brian.

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

Banshee

I'll have to try that trick with the square myself, Brian. I had not thought of checking the wheel vertically. I used string and a couple of bricks instead of planks.

deadman

The planks are more accurate than the string line, and it is solid,
The square certainly answers a lot of questions,
Cheers,
Brian.

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

Poundstretcher

Well done Deadman Enjoyed the lesson.

wowerman

Thanks Brian for long and good explanations.My big concern is seek and hide game.How sure I will be if planks of wood will be dead straight.I thing level was accurate and level on ground.It had bubble between bars.If i buy bricks how i know if they are square?Now i have to buy planks and bricks.This bike gives me more problems than hair on my head.
Why string line is less accurate??

Poundstretcher

This bike gives me more problems than hair on my head.
Why string line is less accurate??

So does Heisti's

wowerman

I checked wheels alignment with string line and to be honest is is ok.It is the same distance on both sides on front wheel.
Brian,youre right it will not be super accurate but accurate enough.To be sure i will go to another service which does wheel alignment.If this will be ok then it means fork(s) are bent or swingarm.

deadman

You look down the edge of the plank, if it is bent, it is not straight, hahahahahaha
Sorry Mate, I needed a laugh,
Two objects approximately the same height will do instead of bricks.
2 blocks of wood. 2 matchboxes, 2 cigarette packets, 2 condom packets.
2 anything, as long as they are at each end of the level to keep the middle off the ground, Easy peasy,

You cant get the string line taught enough, and I have found that it can be inacurate,

If your wheels are that close vertically, 1mm. I would be very surprised to find that your swing arm is out, also your front end seems to be straight also,
If either of these were out. it would show on the level, 4 or 5 mm or greater.
Grab the top and bottom of your wheels and try to move them backwards and forwards, if they move at all the bearings are shot, if they dont move they are allright,

Take it to a big motor cycle dealer, and explain all your problems to the mechanic out the back, not the salesman on the counter,
Ask them to align your wheels,

After all this, if it dont work, I would pull the hair out of my head, but I dont have any left,

Your in London, ask on one of the forums for a reputable mechanic in your area, either on here or on ixxra, they are an English motor cycle site, there is a Blackbird site in England, ask them, they will help you, I think Jaws is in England, they do Blackbirds, and they would be a wealth of info to help you solve your problems, and would put you on the right track,

I am sorry, But I have run out of solutions, without seeing the bike, it makes it pretty hard for me to help you,

I would like to know how you finished up with your bike, I sincerely hope you can right its wrongs, It cant be much wrong with it, as everything seems to be in line except for your wheel alignment.
Cheers Brian,

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.

deadman

It is worth the effort to fix your bird, rather than sell it,

You will find that once fixed and travelling straight, you will have one very awesome machine, It will last you for many years to come and it is an absolute pleasure to ride. It is almost indestructible in motor, gear box or clutch.
You will love your XX. I have done over 13,000 klms since June 2008 and I love mine.
Cheers,
Brian.

__________________
If ya not boppin, Ya in ya coffin. Rock and roll will soothe your soul.
Mods, 6mm Shim, 12 inch risers, Double bubble Windsceen, Homemade Ventura type packrack, Expandable to 82 litre, Rjays rack bag, Lowered rear end frame by 3 inches. Suspension is still stock, home made Cans, awesome.