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Blackbird frame up redo

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Old 12-01-2006, 10:00 AM   #1
 
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This is a thread following the redo of my 99 Bird, I'll update thread with progress, comments and suggestions are appreciated. Some background: I seriously trashed my Bird a couple of months ago. The bike slid under the the rear end of a car. As you would expect the upper fairing and mirrors were ripped off and the only plastic without damage was the tail section. Here's a tip, if you have a getoff on the track or street: collect all the pieces, don't just haul it off and leave pieces. Most of the fasteners and nut plates on pieces will be reusable and you don't want to have to order every applicable fastener.

As I stripped the bike to assess repair scope I made the unpleasent discovery that the front fairing subframe had broken off the main frame taking one of the main frame mount gussets with it (see pic).

To properly repair the frame and prep the bike for the next 70k miles I decided to strip the bike to bare frame and inspect, repair/upgrade every component as I reassemble. Below is my present worklist, most parts are in, I'm still waiting on the delink kit.

At present my work list is as follows:
Chassis
Repair frame completed
Replace front subframe completed
Replace all damaged plastic completed
Repair mirrors completed
Inspect/ service front forks already upgraded with gold valves completed
Have Penske rear shock serviced completed
Service swingarm and suspension link bearings completed
Replace damaged heated grips from Hot grips completed
Remove the wiring harness connector effecting 99&00 birds completed
Engine
Check valves completed
change plugs completed
Inspect counter balancer cush drive completed
Upgrades
Delink brakes with kit, includes new brake lines completed
Remove engine pair valves. completed
Install undertail completed
Install hugger completed
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Last edited by KWSXX : 12-18-2006 at 11:29 PM. Reason: update
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Old 12-01-2006, 11:29 AM   #2
 
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The second pic would have finished it for me.

You could really do some super upgrades while the bike is this far apart, though. TSR swingarm, RC front forks, upgraded stator and wiring system, second electrical system for accessories, the list goes on. Boy, what an opportunity. Keep us up to date.


EDIT: I just noticed where you're at. If you need some help with the heavy work on an upcoming weekend, give me a shout. I'd make the drive just to get some experience with the bike that far apart.
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Old 12-01-2006, 11:32 AM   #3
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"Repair Frame"?????

I don't think I would feel comfortable with that frame even repaired but thats just my
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Old 12-01-2006, 12:16 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flitemdic View Post
The second pic would have finished it for me.

You could really do some super upgrades while the bike is this far apart, though. TSR swingarm, RC front forks, upgraded stator and wiring system, second electrical system for accessories, the list goes on. Boy, what an opportunity. Keep us up to date.


EDIT: I just noticed where you're at. If you need some help with the heavy work on an upcoming weekend, give me a shout. I'd make the drive just to get some experience with the bike that far apart.

Thanks for the offer to help Flitemdic. I'm doing most of the work evenings as time allows but if I see an opportunity I'll let you know. So far the Bird has been surprisingly easy to work, no traps, few special tools. I'll post more pics and details as I progress. I had previously installed a secondary wiring harness for the heated grips, V1 etc. "Repair Frame"?????

I don't think I would feel comfortable with that frame even repaired but thats just my per WILLSXX. That's how I felt when I first saw the hole. After considering loads on subframe gusset are fairly low and in compression are felt comfortable with a qualified weld shop doing the repair. I've got the repaired frame back, I'll post pic at next update.
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Old 12-01-2006, 2:19 PM   #5
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That's how I felt when I first saw the hole. After considering loads on subframe gusset are fairly low and in compression are felt comfortable with a qualified weld shop doing the repair. I've got the repaired frame back, I'll post pic at next update.
What would be the cost of the repair versus maybe picking up a replacement frame?

I guess it will be just fine I'm just kinda leary of anything frame related..I had seen a few people decide to tap screws into their frame's to anchor their HID ballast's to... not me.... thats why god created zip tie's...
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Old 12-01-2006, 2:42 PM   #6

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If the damage to the frame was caused by a straightforward collision, I have no problem with the damage. The steering head is thin wall tube in that area, and the fairing stay frequently punches through there in front end collisions. As long as there is no crushing of the area or spiderweb cracks extending from the hole, I see no reason a good welder shouldn't be able to repair the frame safely....without even stripping the frame.

So if you're uncomfortable with that frame and consider it junk...let me know. I'll be glad to take it off your hands. Seriously.

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Old 12-01-2006, 4:31 PM   #7
 
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I just got the frame back from the welding shop, Pic is attached. The repair looks good. I was lucky the fairing stay mount had been pulled out from the steering head so no measureable deformation to the steering head, also no spider cracks so the weld repair was relatively simple. Tonight I'll be verifing fairing stay mount bolt alignment and bolt the motor in.

I had priced a new frame from Ron Ayers approx $1500.
Ebay had some used ones for $300-400. But no assurance they're not tweaked. I know my frame is straight. Cost to repair was $75.
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Old 12-01-2006, 4:47 PM   #8
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Excellent Thread, please keep us up to date.
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Old 12-01-2006, 6:36 PM   #9
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Excellent Thread, please keep us up to date.
That weld looks good and much cheaper than a replacement.
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Old 12-01-2006, 6:56 PM   #10
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Glad to hear your makin progress Randy. Very sorry to hear the news of the misshap. Cheers.
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Old 12-01-2006, 8:21 PM   #11
 
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I had to do the same thing with my 03 Vstrom (including frame repair) and am in the process of documenting the revival here
The Long Ride

Problem with getting a new frame (which I did before I repaired mine) was that the VIN number plate is on the frame so it essentially made it a different bike. That would require inspection by DMV here in Nevada and a whole new set of fees.

It is a great opportunity to make a very unique and great bike as my project has turned out to be pretty trick (as Vstroms go).
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Old 12-01-2006, 10:35 PM   #12

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I don't think you will have a problem with that at all...I wouldn't have a problem riding it. JMHO
You are correct when purchasing used frames, if ya don't have spects, how would you know it is true? You are better off with what you have.

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Old 12-01-2006, 10:50 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianR View Post
I had to do the same thing with my 03 Vstrom (including frame repair) and am in the process of documenting the revival here
The Long Ride
Impressive, very nice work BrianR
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Old 12-01-2006, 10:56 PM   #14
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I have 30 years experience Tig welding (aluminum, SS, Titanium, Bronze,) if anyone in the Atlanta Ga. area ever needs any work done. My trusty Miller Syncrowave is always ready.
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Old 12-02-2006, 2:55 AM   #15
 
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KW:

Had some welding done on a previous bike & never had a problem. Looks like a good weld - I wouldn't be worried riding that bike. Your redo seems to be coming along nicely - keep us posted!

BrianR:

The "revival" is looking great. I really like the wiring. (Good review)
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Old 12-02-2006, 12:28 PM   #16
 
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Last night I bolted the frame to the engine. Easy task, I followed the sequence and torque values per Honda manual. I purchased the special Honda socket for the motor mount bolts, it's available for anyone to use. It could easily be replicated by modifing a socket.
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Old 12-02-2006, 11:15 PM   #17
 
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cool stuff man you give me hope for rebuilding my bike. It's nice to see someone else going through some of the same crap I am.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:49 PM   #18
 
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The upper fairing stay is installed, I measured the fairing mount points on the fairing stay relative to the main frame and everything appears centered quite nicely.

I had previously installed tappered head bearings so they were well seated in. I checked the head bearings, they were still good, smooth with no notches. I took my time getting the head bearing preload just right, to much preload and the head bearings drag making the bike feel heavy when turning, to little and the front end is loose.

The forks already had the Race Tech mods. The tubes checked out straight, I drained, flushed and replaced the fork oil, also polished the lowers before installing.

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Old 12-03-2006, 11:40 PM   #19
 
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Looking great - keep the updates coming. Almost feels like I'm doing it myself!!
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Old 12-04-2006, 12:58 AM   #20
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Looking very good thus far.... BTW, is that stator cover painted, or powder-coated?

Either way, looks pretty good in that photo....
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Old 12-06-2006, 7:57 PM   #21
 
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Per Warchild "Looking very good thus far.... BTW, is that stator cover painted, or powder-coated?
Either way, looks pretty good in that photo"....
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The stator housing is painted, this is the third time I've sanded out gouges and repainted the cover, the metal is getting paper thin.

Last edited by KWSXX : 12-06-2006 at 8:13 PM. Reason: lost pics when submitting so reposted below
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Old 12-06-2006, 8:03 PM   #22
 
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In preparation for this segment: I cleaned and greased the needle bearings in the swingarm and suspension links. Fyi,the needle bearings and original grease lube still looked good after 70k miles. I also did the 99-00 loom fix by cutting out the junction box with the corrosion problems and soldiering the wires. Allready had some corrosion so appears I caught it just in time.

Installed the rear subframe, the swing arm, rear fender, rear wheel assembly and wiring loom.

The lock nut on the swingarm mount bolt requires a special tool similiar to the motor mount bolts. I replicated the special tool by cutting some slots into a socket I had laying around.

Found out the hard way the coolant overflow tank must be installed before the rear fender.

Installation of the wiring loom wasn't as bad as it looks. The factory manual has good diagrams and the color coded cannon plugs are easy to match up.

As you can see I now have a rolling chassis. I'm still waiting for the delink kit, in a couple of days the delink kit will be critical path.
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Old 12-06-2006, 9:16 PM   #23
 
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Now might be a good time to install a set of PAIR blockoff plates and clean up the top of the motor, don't you think?
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Old 12-06-2006, 9:29 PM   #24
 
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