Tips for Replacing the Spark Plugs?

Angelski19

Hey everyone. Just wondering if anyone had any good tips for replacing the spark plugs. I have the manual and did what it said, howevever, there is almost no room to work and try to get the plugs out. I have the radator pulled down. Does anyone take the tank off too replace plugs? Hope someone can help me out. Thanks- Alex

Hobicus

Warchild put together pretty much the definitive guide for changing plugs.

SuperBlackbird.com

Basically, you can loosen the tank and stand it up on end over by where the seat is, without disconnecting anything. From there, you can remove the airbox and go in from the top. It's not too huge a task, and is WAY easier than going in like you're trying to from the front.

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Angelski19

Yeah I was thinking that. I don't know why the manual said to go in the bottom near the front wheel. Isnt the air box connected to the carbs? I saw the round clamps when I was thinking about taking off the air box. Thanks for the reply!!

MrBadExxample

When I did mine I removed the tank. It's not very hard. The most time consuming part is draining the gas. If possible, do it when the tank is low.

While you're there, install a PAIR removal kit. It reduces the amount of crap in your way. Removing the PAIR system also contributes to global warming, which in turn extends the riding season.

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Coggy

Mine's a carbed one
I took the tank off
Quite straightforward, but make sure it's nearly empty-it's lighter-and note the connections carefully
And don't forget to turn the fuel tap on again...

(carbed only)

testrider

Or just leave the fuel tap alone and don't touch it. Without vacuum, the fuel won't come out anyway...

pnelson32

Angelski, I say go with the way you were going (especially if you've already removed the lower fairings and loosened the radiator! That's all you have to remove and loosen). I just replaced my plugs the traditional way and I didn't have to go digging through the top. It's not much room to work with, but it's not bad with the spark plug wrench that comes in the tool kit with the bird. You can slide that in the spark plug holes (just like XX riders do best: gently, slowly working it, but with just the right amount of thrust ) and use a ratchet to turn the spark plug wrench. If you're having trouble with the ratchet, then just use the regular wrench (I think size 10) that comes also in your XX tool kit, which fits the spark plug wrench perfectly. It takes maybe an hour or so to do. Going in from the top makes it easier once you get to the plugs, but I don't think it's worth taking so much off. Plus, you have to drain the gas??? In my humble opinion, forget it, Dude. It's not that bad the other way.

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-Paul in Dallas

Mars

I have a 7-step plug chaniging procedure that works every time.

1. Call Honda Shop and make appointment for a Saturday morning.
2. Go for a nice early morning Saturday ride, and stop at the shop.
3. Give bike to mechanic.
4. Drool over all the new hardware, try on jackets and helmets, BS with other bike-heads for an hour.
5. Walk across the street to Starbucks and get yourself a $4.00 cup of Joe and a used Wallstreet Journal. Read about things you don't understand for an hour.
6. Walk back to shop and pick up bike.
7. Pay your $75.00 and ride home with a smile.

Works every time.

Fast.Eddy

Man I wish you lived closer, for $75 I would provide beer for free!

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haWHYnXX

Hopefully you use Doug at Seattle Cycle Center. I wouldn't trust anyone else up that-a-way. Esp those guys at RMC.

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slyxdevil

id say top is easier and you dont have to drain tank !! thats bad info
it wont come out with out vaccum!

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SSUXX

You must have an awesome Honda dealer. My dealer (Who i've known for aprox 18 years, sponsored my racing effort and sold me a new bike) would not get it done in one day, on a Saturday, for $75. No freaking way, ain't happening.
The labor rate around here is $85 per hour and changing out the plugs is over an hour to do. And this doesn't include parts...
If I could get it done for $75, I guess i'd be reading the Journal right next to you!

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Warchild

Correct. Going in from the top is far easier.

You neither have to drain the tank, nor remove it. You simply prop it up and go to town on the plugs.

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http://www.superblackbird.com/

PJNXX

OFF TOPIC: Would that be Fun Wheels?

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SSUXX

Hell yes. However, I think this is how most dealers are; Kawi, Suzuki, Yamaha, etc. It takes them all day to do a frigging inspection.

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BBXX00

Thanks to the site for the help on changing the spark plugs. It wasn't bad at all.

jjmcjames

I just finished changing my plugs on my '98. I did the following, after reference to Warchild's excellent web site:

1. Remove seat and tank. This was easier for me. I pinched off the fuel lines (the tank was nearly empty), pulled them and tagged the remaining hoses with tape and labeled each one.
2. Remove the top portion of the air cleaner housing and the filter. Change the filter also at this point.
3. Pull the hoses front and back for the lower portion of the air cleaner housing and label. Here you also need to remove the nuts holding the coils-2 per coil, 10mm nuts.
4. Loosen the 4 bolts/collar assemblies where the housing fits over the top of the carb/breather assemblies. This will let the assembly pull out-almost.
5. At this point I discovered that the ram air assemblies will not "pull" out-pull the push pins for the panels closest to the tank and pull them up. This will let you pull the lower air breather assembly back and out. This will give you access to the plugs.
6. Now you can use the Honda spark plug wrench to remove the plugs. On number 4, which Warchild correctly said is a tight fit, to say the least, I disconnected the coil wire and pulled the coil out of the way which made it somewhat easier to reach.
7. I used Anti-Seize on the new plugs. I also used, in addition to the Honda socket a Craftsman 10mm deep well socket with a universal joint to attatch over the top of the Honda tool. This worked well on 1-3, but 4 was a pain and I ended up using a 10mm box end wrench to remove and install number four.
8. After completion I took a short ride-no problems noted. Two hours start to finish. I do not know if this is the "right" way or not. My bike is carbed and as far as I could tell Warchild's description is for FI bikes. Thanks to Warchild for the excellent reference.

Sweetruss

Guys I suck at working on bikes but I've learned a lot from this forum and site by asking questions and searching past threads. My father-and-law diagnosed my bike for me and told me a had a plug fouling out and that was my problem. I followed the link above and took my time and it was relatively easy I thought. I've never done anything like that before, took my time, and finished the job in about 1hour 35 mins. Great link Warchild and thanks for posting it!

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