Cleaning out the Gas tank - Discuss Cleaning out the Gas tank on CBRXX, the ultimate on-line community for Honda motorcyclists. Read it in Engine / Airbox / Exhaust / Fuel Delivery. (Discussion of Honda CBR 1100 XX Super Blackbird Engine Modifications, Airbox Modifications, Exhaust Systems, Power Commanders, and Carburetors.)

BlackbirdBob · 01-29-2009, 7:01 PM

Hello all , I want to clean out my Gas tank and would like to hear from others who have done the same, on what they have used and how it turned out for them.

Thanks for your Time .

Robert

TigreST · 01-29-2009, 7:37 PM

It may all depend on how deep you wish to get into the "tank cleaning" job.

I have cleaned and coated two tanks in my motorcycle riding tenure. Both these have been off of 1980 era machines. I did so to stave off the possible pin hole rust thoughs that bikes that don't get much road time often suffer. Mores the case if they are left outside to be taken to task by mother natures forces. Happy to say that this was not the case for either of my old rides, which are still in a rather good state of repair.

If you wish to do the "Full Monty" on your tank interior you might might type something like "tank clean" "tank coating"...etc in to google, your going to turn up more then a few hits. Products that come to mind are Kreme and Por-15, there are a few others. The product I choose comes from the auto restoration product groupings. I was turned on to this stuff by a fellow rider and restorer of machinery (bikes and cars) and a Honda CB1100F drag racer (who's also a double CBR-XX owner). The product is marketed by Hirsch Automotive and sold in a "motorcycle tank" sized kit. Here's the link to the home page: -Hirsch Automotive Products check the left side for the link to "gas tank sealer/repairs". You'll see the MC kits listed.

As in all things surface prep is key here. If you do not follow the format to the letter you may not meet with success, or maybe you'll have issues down the road. I have heard and read the tales of other products and user nightmares after having attempted to do a tank clean and coat only to have the product lift after the coating. I have had no such issues with the Hirch kit...if for no other reason then having followed the direction to the letter...and then some. A major point is getting the tank dry between applications of the solutions. Have a look and read of there product info and see what you think. Other vendors also provide such info for there product..Kreem and Por-15 etc.

O.k....now the quick fix: I've not tried this but... If your not want to coat the tank interior you may only wish to take some of the crust/rust out of it. One fellow mentioned the Coca Cola treatment. Pour Coke into the empty tank and swish it around and let it sit over trouble spots for a few hours or so. The acidic nature of the coke solution will desolve the rust and clean the tanks surface back to near new....given enough time. You'd be wise to research this one before you start. Coke will not be as harsh a treatment as the three part system like the Hirsh kit,..which includes a "super soap" (my words not there's) de-sludge and varnish remover, followed by the metal pre-etch treatment...followed by the tank liner material.

Although these kits advertise as "X number of hours to complete the job" I took better then three days (a day for each task) to ensure the tank was dry between treatments...mores the case prior to the liner install. Depending on ambient air temps..the setting of the liner coat can take some time,..even with MEK as a carrier medium.

For what it's worth.

Tony

DeathWish01 · 01-29-2009, 8:06 PM

yeah... i think i would 1. buy a new tank. 2. pay a pro to do it... LOL

shewie · 01-29-2009, 8:48 PM

How bad is your tank, Robert? If you are trying to remove anything up to and including some light rust, you can do the old varsol and washers trick. Put a couple of litres/pints of varsol in the tank and throw in a couple handfuls of 5/16" or smaller star-type lock washers, close the cap and shake the tank until your arms are ready to fall off. Then hold it upside down and do it again. Keep changing angles and shaking. This will eventually remove everything from the inner surface. Flush it out a few times with fresh varsol and keep it full of fuel forever more.

TigreST · 01-29-2009, 9:14 PM

For light rust one might not do to bad to use CLR Cleaner as sold up here in the Great White North. It's a Calcium/Lime/Rust remover that can be dilute to (taste?) suit your needs. This would work similar to the Coke treatment me thinks. Again...this is not something I've tried but has been reported to work from others in the motorcycle world.

Your tag states your running an 98 XX...how bad could the tank be? Just curious is all.

Tony

BlackbirdBob · 01-29-2009, 10:17 PM

No Rust, Just Varnish from sitting so long Only 4,327 miles Very scummy looking in the Tank and i want to do it Right But i do want to do it myself . Thanks to all who reply . Robert

shewie · 01-29-2009, 10:26 PM

Spray a can of carb cleaner into it and let it do it's job if it's just varnish.

DeathWish01 · 01-29-2009, 11:12 PM

just a question.... im with tiger on this... but what about seafoam? i don't know much about it, but would it clean the gas tank?

CanadianBird · 01-30-2009, 8:10 AM

Off topic, Mr DW01, I see you're in Montana, below Alberta. I've ridden from Toronto into the US and across on #2 all the way to Glacier then up through Mary(great pies) into Canada. I thought you were in Wash. St. I was too dumb to check the map. Ridden through Mussula. Cheers

Never cleaned my gas tank.

Partsguy · 01-30-2009, 8:23 AM

I've also heard of carb cleaner doing the job,that's what I would try first.Also it's a LOT cheaper that Kreem,which works-my wife just did it on her 92 KLR.

TigreST · 01-30-2009, 8:39 AM

The carb cleaner may work very well...I agree on that point...after all, that's what it is supposed to remove from fuel system parts. My one concern would be what it may do to paint work should it exit the tank area and contact the paint some how.

I think that DW01 is on the right track..clean the vanish with Sea Foam or Techron fuel system cleaner (these are both gas tank additives). It will not evaporate as fast as a spray bomb application such as brake cleaner (if that is in fact how you'd apply the brake cleaner). Soak time would be much increased with the fuel system additive cleaners. You could slosh this material around in the tank. You may also be able to increase the volume of the material by adding gasoline in a 50/50 mix. The normal use of this stuff for a "clean while you drive" application is something like one bottle to 40 gallons of fuel, or something like that.

More info here on Sea Foam: Sea Foam

Just one more comment on the "Full Monty" treatment above for anyone going that direction. The same concerns apply here related to paint protection if you intend not to do a repaint of the tank. This is paramount when it comes time to apply the sealer. The Hirsch treatment kit sealer uses MEK or Acetone as a carrier medium for the sealer (latex). If it is dripped on to painted surfaces it will lift the paint at the worst or at least mar the finish at the least. Ensure you protect against drips and leaks while sloshing the tank with the sealer.

Tony

Partsguy · 01-30-2009, 4:36 PM

Carb cleaner (Honda anyway) does not damage paint.I use it to remove sticker goo.

MitchT · 01-30-2009, 5:24 PM

My experience is that you do not want to use anything oily to clean the inside of the tank. Oil coats the junk and helps to adhere it until you are 50 miles south of Left Toadsquash, Montana. Then it will release the junk straight into your carbs.

I've used white vinegar and some of that stuff you pour in the tank of your car in the winter to dry it. I think it's called dry gas? It's been a while. I did this on my 1980 750, which came with rusty, nasty inside tank walls. I filled the tank with vinegar and dry gas, shook it, let it set for a week, drained it, pressure washed it until the water came out clean, refilled with more vinegar and dry gas, shook it, set it aside for another week, drained again, pressure wash again until clean water. Then let set for another week to dry, and finally 2 cans of dry gas, slosh thoroughly, set overnight, drain, put new fuel filers on your bike, install the tank, fill with gas, and go.

With all due respect, I'd rather buy a new or used tank than attempting to Kreem anything. Have heard too many horror stories. It's difficult to do good surface prep on the inside of a tank.

And if you want to hire a pro to clean it, here's an outfit that seems to have a good rep: Motorcycle Cruiser on Rust Removal

Is your tank really that bad?

XXDAD · 01-30-2009, 5:59 PM

TigreST I had an old 80 bike that had tons of rust in the tank. I used a similar product that I referenced in your first post. I first rattled a bunch of BB's in the tank first for 30 mins-to loosen material. I then applied a clearner, a primer and a coating or sealing agent (that stuff curies on everything). It work real well for my old bike. I used a product from Eastwood, you can find them on the internet. Based on your info. that you supplied, I think you can just clean it with carb cleaner and call it good. I have just recently order a new fuel filter for my bike. I will be replacing that soon.

Mitch T is right...the quality of the sealing job you do is directly related to how well you get the surface prep'd. Some have installed additional fuel filters, but flow can become tricky with extra filters in the line.

MitchT · 02-01-2009, 1:45 PM

Oh, one more thing, since these tanks have a sender in them, I'd remove the sender and find a way to block the hole before introducing chemicals and shaking to them, or the thing might break.

shewie · 02-01-2009, 1:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MitchT

Oh, one more thing, since these tanks have a sender in them, I'd remove the sender and find a way to block the hole before introducing chemicals and shaking to them, or the thing might break.

Excellent point, Mitch, and one that the rest of us forgot to mention.

BlackbirdBob · 02-01-2009, 6:58 PM

Thanks to all that replied to this posting all very good ideas and coments I have gone with some B-12 carb cleaner backed by a full can of sea foam and I am happy with the results . Oh one more thing she run's most excellent !!! This is such a great site to have I am very thankfull to all who post and answer great information to be found here . Thanks Robert (AKA) Blackbirdbob

BlackbirdBob · 02-09-2009, 7:55 PM

Thank to all who replied you may close this thread

Nutter67 · 02-11-2009, 6:54 AM

In case there are any other tanke cleaners out there, I'll leave it open just in case somebody else chimes in with some suggestions.

BlackbirdBob · 02-11-2009, 4:48 PM

Ok with me I did not want to take up space but thank you very much . Blackbirdbob .

MitchT · 02-15-2009, 1:22 AM

Since we've been having all this talk about cleaning the tank, I started cleaning mine. Here are a few more things I found.

You can plug the hole from the sender unit by using the bottom of a household plastic 'tupperware' container. They sell el-cheapo ones now, and that is what I used, as the plastic is thinner, but works well for this job. Cut the walls off about 1/4 inch from the bottom, and lay the bottom on the studs surrounding the sender hole. Cut an 'X' in the plastic atop each stud, push down, and bolt it to the tank. The hole is now sealed. Remove the petcock and strainer. Make another plastic block from the side of the el-cheapo plastic container, and place it between the tank and petcock to block the hole and keep crap out of the petcock assembly.

When washing out the tank, first remove the gas cap. Only three of the allen bolts surrounding it actually hold it to the tank. Then pull the petcock and plastic hole plugs you made. Place the tank on something light colored. You can't see bits of junk in the stream coming out of the stream of water from the tank, but they will appear on the white base. I happen to have a white piece of plywood that did the trick. When draining, be patient, and move the garden hose around a lot.

Next, these tanks will not drain completely by themselves. I used a vaccum brake bleeder to get the last 1/2 quart of water out. Flip the tank over onto something that will protect the paint, remove the plastic from the sender hole, stick the suction hose in, and be amazed at how much liquid is still in an 'empty' tank. That can not be left in the tank, or your engine will pay.

Last, if you go to eBay (US) and enter auction 260288403417, the fuel filters that will fit your lines are there for about 1/2 the price the local auto parts store charges. No hose clamps come with the filters, and be sure to order two of them, one for each gas line.

That's all I got!

01-29-2009, 8:48 PM	#4
shewie Resident Eh?hole. Join Date: Oct 26 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada Age: 43 Posts: 7,140	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank How bad is your tank, Robert? If you are trying to remove anything up to and including some light rust, you can do the old varsol and washers trick. Put a couple of litres/pints of varsol in the tank and throw in a couple handfuls of 5/16" or smaller star-type lock washers, close the cap and shake the tank until your arms are ready to fall off. Then hold it upside down and do it again. Keep changing angles and shaking. This will eventually remove everything from the inner surface. Flush it out a few times with fresh varsol and keep it full of fuel forever more.

01-29-2009, 9:14 PM	#5
TigreST Join Date: Jun 03 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 791	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank For light rust one might not do to bad to use CLR Cleaner as sold up here in the Great White North. It's a Calcium/Lime/Rust remover that can be dilute to (taste?) suit your needs. This would work similar to the Coke treatment me thinks. Again...this is not something I've tried but has been reported to work from others in the motorcycle world. Your tag states your running an 98 XX...how bad could the tank be? Just curious is all. Tony __________________ "Stemmata quid faciunt."

01-29-2009, 10:17 PM	#6
BlackbirdBob BlackbirdBob Join Date: Nov 27 2008 Location: minnesota Posts: 92	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank No Rust, Just Varnish from sitting so long Only 4,327 miles Very scummy looking in the Tank and i want to do it Right But i do want to do it myself . Thanks to all who reply . Robert

01-29-2009, 10:26 PM	#7
shewie Resident Eh?hole. Join Date: Oct 26 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada Age: 43 Posts: 7,140	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Spray a can of carb cleaner into it and let it do it's job if it's just varnish.

01-30-2009, 8:10 AM	#9
CanadianBird Join Date: Nov 25 2006 Location: Vancouver BC Canada Posts: 4,933	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Off topic, Mr DW01, I see you're in Montana, below Alberta. I've ridden from Toronto into the US and across on #2 all the way to Glacier then up through Mary(great pies) into Canada. I thought you were in Wash. St. I was too dumb to check the map. Ridden through Mussula. Cheers Never cleaned my gas tank.

01-29-2009, 7:37 PM	#2
TigreST Join Date: Jun 03 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 791	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank It may all depend on how deep you wish to get into the "tank cleaning" job. I have cleaned and coated two tanks in my motorcycle riding tenure. Both these have been off of 1980 era machines. I did so to stave off the possible pin hole rust thoughs that bikes that don't get much road time often suffer. Mores the case if they are left outside to be taken to task by mother natures forces. Happy to say that this was not the case for either of my old rides, which are still in a rather good state of repair. If you wish to do the "Full Monty" on your tank interior you might might type something like "tank clean" "tank coating"...etc in to google, your going to turn up more then a few hits. Products that come to mind are Kreme and Por-15, there are a few others. The product I choose comes from the auto restoration product groupings. I was turned on to this stuff by a fellow rider and restorer of machinery (bikes and cars) and a Honda CB1100F drag racer (who's also a double CBR-XX owner). The product is marketed by Hirsch Automotive and sold in a "motorcycle tank" sized kit. Here's the link to the home page: -Hirsch Automotive Products check the left side for the link to "gas tank sealer/repairs". You'll see the MC kits listed. As in all things surface prep is key here. If you do not follow the format to the letter you may not meet with success, or maybe you'll have issues down the road. I have heard and read the tales of other products and user nightmares after having attempted to do a tank clean and coat only to have the product lift after the coating. I have had no such issues with the Hirch kit...if for no other reason then having followed the direction to the letter...and then some. A major point is getting the tank dry between applications of the solutions. Have a look and read of there product info and see what you think. Other vendors also provide such info for there product..Kreem and Por-15 etc. O.k....now the quick fix: I've not tried this but... If your not want to coat the tank interior you may only wish to take some of the crust/rust out of it. One fellow mentioned the Coca Cola treatment. Pour Coke into the empty tank and swish it around and let it sit over trouble spots for a few hours or so. The acidic nature of the coke solution will desolve the rust and clean the tanks surface back to near new....given enough time. You'd be wise to research this one before you start. Coke will not be as harsh a treatment as the three part system like the Hirsh kit,..which includes a "super soap" (my words not there's) de-sludge and varnish remover, followed by the metal pre-etch treatment...followed by the tank liner material. Although these kits advertise as "X number of hours to complete the job" I took better then three days (a day for each task) to ensure the tank was dry between treatments...mores the case prior to the liner install. Depending on ambient air temps..the setting of the liner coat can take some time,..even with MEK as a carrier medium. For what it's worth. Tony __________________ "Stemmata quid faciunt."

01-30-2009, 8:23 AM	#10
Partsguy Vendor Join Date: Dec 23 2006 Location: near London,Canada Posts: 1,531	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank I've also heard of carb cleaner doing the job,that's what I would try first.Also it's a LOT cheaper that Kreem,which works-my wife just did it on her 92 KLR.

01-30-2009, 8:39 AM	#11
TigreST Join Date: Jun 03 2007 Location: Canada Posts: 791	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank The carb cleaner may work very well...I agree on that point...after all, that's what it is supposed to remove from fuel system parts. My one concern would be what it may do to paint work should it exit the tank area and contact the paint some how. I think that DW01 is on the right track..clean the vanish with Sea Foam or Techron fuel system cleaner (these are both gas tank additives). It will not evaporate as fast as a spray bomb application such as brake cleaner (if that is in fact how you'd apply the brake cleaner). Soak time would be much increased with the fuel system additive cleaners. You could slosh this material around in the tank. You may also be able to increase the volume of the material by adding gasoline in a 50/50 mix. The normal use of this stuff for a "clean while you drive" application is something like one bottle to 40 gallons of fuel, or something like that. More info here on Sea Foam: Sea Foam Just one more comment on the "Full Monty" treatment above for anyone going that direction. The same concerns apply here related to paint protection if you intend not to do a repaint of the tank. This is paramount when it comes time to apply the sealer. The Hirsch treatment kit sealer uses MEK or Acetone as a carrier medium for the sealer (latex). If it is dripped on to painted surfaces it will lift the paint at the worst or at least mar the finish at the least. Ensure you protect against drips and leaks while sloshing the tank with the sealer. Tony __________________ "Stemmata quid faciunt." Last edited by TigreST; 01-30-2009 at 8:48 AM.

01-30-2009, 4:36 PM	#12
Partsguy Vendor Join Date: Dec 23 2006 Location: near London,Canada Posts: 1,531	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Carb cleaner (Honda anyway) does not damage paint.I use it to remove sticker goo.

01-30-2009, 5:24 PM	#13
MitchT Join Date: Jun 26 2008 Location: San Clemente, CA Posts: 81	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank My experience is that you do not want to use anything oily to clean the inside of the tank. Oil coats the junk and helps to adhere it until you are 50 miles south of Left Toadsquash, Montana. Then it will release the junk straight into your carbs. I've used white vinegar and some of that stuff you pour in the tank of your car in the winter to dry it. I think it's called dry gas? It's been a while. I did this on my 1980 750, which came with rusty, nasty inside tank walls. I filled the tank with vinegar and dry gas, shook it, let it set for a week, drained it, pressure washed it until the water came out clean, refilled with more vinegar and dry gas, shook it, set it aside for another week, drained again, pressure wash again until clean water. Then let set for another week to dry, and finally 2 cans of dry gas, slosh thoroughly, set overnight, drain, put new fuel filers on your bike, install the tank, fill with gas, and go. With all due respect, I'd rather buy a new or used tank than attempting to Kreem anything. Have heard too many horror stories. It's difficult to do good surface prep on the inside of a tank. And if you want to hire a pro to clean it, here's an outfit that seems to have a good rep: Motorcycle Cruiser on Rust Removal Is your tank really that bad? Last edited by MitchT; 01-30-2009 at 11:35 PM.

01-30-2009, 5:59 PM	#14
XXDAD Join Date: Feb 05 2008 Location: North Carolina Posts: 521	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank TigreST I had an old 80 bike that had tons of rust in the tank. I used a similar product that I referenced in your first post. I first rattled a bunch of BB's in the tank first for 30 mins-to loosen material. I then applied a clearner, a primer and a coating or sealing agent (that stuff curies on everything). It work real well for my old bike. I used a product from Eastwood, you can find them on the internet. Based on your info. that you supplied, I think you can just clean it with carb cleaner and call it good. I have just recently order a new fuel filter for my bike. I will be replacing that soon. Mitch T is right...the quality of the sealing job you do is directly related to how well you get the surface prep'd. Some have installed additional fuel filters, but flow can become tricky with extra filters in the line.

02-01-2009, 1:45 PM	#15
MitchT Join Date: Jun 26 2008 Location: San Clemente, CA Posts: 81	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Oh, one more thing, since these tanks have a sender in them, I'd remove the sender and find a way to block the hole before introducing chemicals and shaking to them, or the thing might break.

02-01-2009, 6:58 PM	#17
BlackbirdBob BlackbirdBob Join Date: Nov 27 2008 Location: minnesota Posts: 92	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Thanks to all that replied to this posting all very good ideas and coments I have gone with some B-12 carb cleaner backed by a full can of sea foam and I am happy with the results . Oh one more thing she run's most excellent !!! This is such a great site to have I am very thankfull to all who post and answer great information to be found here . Thanks Robert (AKA) Blackbirdbob

02-09-2009, 7:55 PM	#18
BlackbirdBob BlackbirdBob Join Date: Nov 27 2008 Location: minnesota Posts: 92	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Thank to all who replied you may close this thread

02-11-2009, 6:54 AM	#19
Nutter67 Administrator Join Date: Aug 31 2007 Location: Cranbourne, Victoria, Australia Age: 43 Posts: 5,955	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank In case there are any other tanke cleaners out there, I'll leave it open just in case somebody else chimes in with some suggestions. __________________ *Paul* *Never let a motorcycle take you somewhere your brain didn't get to three seconds earlier*

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02-11-2009, 4:48 PM	#20
BlackbirdBob BlackbirdBob Join Date: Nov 27 2008 Location: minnesota Posts: 92	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Ok with me I did not want to take up space but thank you very much . Blackbirdbob .

02-15-2009, 1:22 AM	#21
MitchT Join Date: Jun 26 2008 Location: San Clemente, CA Posts: 81	Re: Cleaning out the Gas tank Since we've been having all this talk about cleaning the tank, I started cleaning mine. Here are a few more things I found. You can plug the hole from the sender unit by using the bottom of a household plastic 'tupperware' container. They sell el-cheapo ones now, and that is what I used, as the plastic is thinner, but works well for this job. Cut the walls off about 1/4 inch from the bottom, and lay the bottom on the studs surrounding the sender hole. Cut an 'X' in the plastic atop each stud, push down, and bolt it to the tank. The hole is now sealed. Remove the petcock and strainer. Make another plastic block from the side of the el-cheapo plastic container, and place it between the tank and petcock to block the hole and keep crap out of the petcock assembly. When washing out the tank, first remove the gas cap. Only three of the allen bolts surrounding it actually hold it to the tank. Then pull the petcock and plastic hole plugs you made. Place the tank on something light colored. You can't see bits of junk in the stream coming out of the stream of water from the tank, but they will appear on the white base. I happen to have a white piece of plywood that did the trick. When draining, be patient, and move the garden hose around a lot. Next, these tanks will not drain completely by themselves. I used a vaccum brake bleeder to get the last 1/2 quart of water out. Flip the tank over onto something that will protect the paint, remove the plastic from the sender hole, stick the suction hose in, and be amazed at how much liquid is still in an 'empty' tank. That can not be left in the tank, or your engine will pay. Last, if you go to eBay (US) and enter auction 260288403417, the fuel filters that will fit your lines are there for about 1/2 the price the local auto parts store charges. No hose clamps come with the filters, and be sure to order two of them, one for each gas line. That's all I got!