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View Poll Results: How often do you check and adjust your valve clearance?

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412. You may not vote on this poll
  • According to the maintenance schedule.

    149 36.17%
  • According to my own schedule.

    116 28.16%
  • I never check my valve clearance.

    147 35.68%
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Thread: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

  1. #121

    Member #
    2957
    Bike(s)
    97 CBR1100XX, 07 CBR1000RR/Repsol
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Just finished running the valves on the bird. It has 44000 miles on it and has never had the valve cover off. All were within spec with a couple of the exhaust on the high end but still ok.

    So it's good for another 40 -50k miles... Maybe at 100k I'll take another look....

    ....Gotta love these Hondas.....
    Scott
    97 BB
    "Big Black"
    "I'd rather die while I'm living then live while I'm dead" Jimmy Buffet

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  3. #122

    Member #
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Perhaps not surprisingly I am one person who does check the clearances (but not at every interval ) and bearing in mind the dire consequences of tight clearances it has to be worth doing.
    I have a suspicion that some people (who do home maintenance) are put off due to the possibility of a difficult job ................. so this time I thought I would photograph the steps so anybody can see and decide for themselves. This is 'daily Bird' and she has 56K miles on the clock so I am expecting to have to re-shim since none have been changed since she was built over 10 years ago
    So to the preparations

    Remove seat, release the tank by removing the two mounting bolts and prop up. Clamp the two pipes that run to the fuel rail (if yours is injection) and disconnect from the fuel rail. Unclip the electrical connections and disconnect the breather pipes. Photo 1 note the pipe clamp.

    Remove tank and this is what you see. Photo 2.

    Remove the cover from the airbox and you will find a grubby filter. Photo 3. Note you do not need to remove the tank to replace the filter, just lift and prop the tank up. Plugs can be reached by lifting the front of the tank up and supporting at the rear ................. but it is easer to remove the tank, just don't have it full!

    Disconnect the coils from the side of the airbox Photo 4.
    Remove the air intakes from the throttle bodies and pulling the ram air tubes (inj only) from the airbox base remove the lower half of the airbox.

    Before you go any further give everything a good clean if your motor looks anything like mine. Photo 5.

    Remove the plug leads - I mark each one with a piece of masking tape with a number on it to make reassembly easier!
    Remove the engine breather tube.
    Disconnect the throttle cables.
    Onto the PAIR system. This can be removed as a unit. Disconnect the electrical connector. Unbolt the covers from the cylinder head cover and remove. You do not need to disconnect all the hoses. Photo 6.
    Now swing the coils and plug leads out of the way.
    The cover should now be clear to remove after you have removed the 6 bolts. Careful here if the bolts are at all corroded (as mine are), you really don't want to round off the heads since they are 'special bolts' as you will see when you remove them.
    Remove the cover and the rubber gasket. Usually you can re-use the gasket a couple of times, I will be replacing mine this time (not cheap) due to age and previous re-use. Photo 7

    Thats it, preparation over time to get on with the job ...... to be continued!
    Attached Images

  4. #123

    Member #
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    2003 CBR1100xx - Blue - Stock, but not for long...
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Looking forward to the updates Duck!!! This is on my list of things to do (nearly at 80,000km with an unknown history...) right after I get my bike back from the shop where it is being repaired thanks to a van that hit me yesterday.

    Anyhow, enough of my sob story, please continue with the good info!!!

  5. #124
    Resident Eh?hole.
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    Silver '02 XX
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Um, hey Duck, the hospital called. It seems they are missing a cupboard full of bandages. You wouldn't happen to know where they went. Would you?
    Where are we going...and what am I doing in this hand basket??

  6. #125

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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Ok the preparations were carried out in may last post so on to the task.
    Remove the right hand fairing panel to expose the timing cover. Give this and the rim around it a good clean before removing it and the O ring that should stay attached to the cover (17mm socket) Photo 1.
    Now if you are checking your valves you have almost certainly already changed the CCT, did you keep the key? If you did it will come in useful but if you don’t have one you can easily make one or ‘bodge’ the next step and use a screwdriver.
    You need to wind the CCT fully to take up any chain slack before you start turning the crank. Doing this prevents any possibility of the chain jumping on the cam shaft sprockets. Having locked the CCT turn the crank clockwise (14mm socket) until the ‘T’ mark aligns with the notch on the cover. Then check the camshaft pulleys, the marks should be in line with the face of the cylinder head and both pointing outwards. You will need a small mirror to see the mark on the inlet cam sprocket the other mark can be seen by looking under the frame. Photos 2 and 3 (apologies for quality here but I have a reputation to uphold!) If the marks on the sprockets are facing inwards you are 180 degrees out, turn the crank one full turn (align the T mark again) and you are ready to start measuring clearances.

    This current position gives you Inlets No’s 1 & 3 and the clearance is 0.16±0.03mm (0.006 ±0.001 in) I like to use cranked feelers, IMHO makes the job much easier Photo 4.

    Having checked these two (write down the clearance for records or later calcs) turn the crank clockwise approx 180 deg until the single mark is vertical (not in line with the notch in the cover).
    Check exhaust No’s 2 & 4 and the clearance is 0.22±0.03mm (0.009 ±0.001 in)

    Turn the crank 180 deg until the T mark is back by the notch and check Inlets 2 & 4.

    Turn the crank 180 deg (single mark vertical) and check exhaust 1 & 3.

    Well that is the theory, my day didn’t quite go to plan! When I initially turned the crank there was a little resistance then a loud ‘click’ …………….. something had moved! On checking the cam sprocket marks is was obvious that I had not correctly locked the CCT (must have been a little extra slack in there) since the marks did not align correctly with the head faces – the chain had jumped on the exhaust sprocket. No problem, I was expecting to have to re-shim so the cams would be coming out anyway. So before I checked the valves I would have to remove the cams and re-time them in. This is simple, just remove the carriers (undo the bolts gently and in a cross pattern to avoid over stressing the carriers since a couple of valves will be pushing against it) and lift out the cams whilst holding onto the cam chain!.Tie this up to avoid it dropping into the depths of the motor – cable zip ties are really useful for this. It is worth checking the bearings with the cams and covers removed Photo 5 shows the carriers and bearings. In my engine there was some wear but nothing that I wouldn’t expect at +50K miles. The cams were unmarked …….. which is nice.
    The motor was still be at TDC so it was a case of putting the chain back onto the sprockets so that the cams would be in the correct position when re-installed. Bolted everything back together and checked the clearances …………………….. they were all in spec with only 1 ‘tight’ and 2 ‘loose’ although still well within acceptable tolerance. Mr Honda I salute you!

    So I have no need to re-shim but having had the cams out it would have been an easy job.

    To calculate what shim you need, you need to do a simple calc
    The new shim = (recorded clearance – spec clearance) + old shim thickness.
    To get the old shim out having removed the cam you need to lift the bucket. Being ‘old school’ I find the easiest way to do this is to use a stick with a sucker on the end – anybody who has ground in valves by hand will know what I mean. Usually the shim will be stuck inside the top of the valve retainer if not it will be stuck to the inside of the bucket.
    You will need a micrometer to measure the shim accurately although the thickness should be marked on it.
    When you have re-shimmed re-do the clearance check, it is easy to make a mistake either putting the wrong shim on the wrong valve or doing the calc wrong! I always write down everything as I go, that way I never have that horrible ‘what did I do’ thought which usually makes you tear everything down to re-check!
    Re-assembly is simply a reversal of the dismantling stage, but take your time and clean everything before bolting it back on and inspect for any damage. Run your motor before putting bodywork etc back on, that way you can see if the cover seal is actually sealing – it can be a real pain to install so take your time when you do it!
    That’s it, task done.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by TheDuck; 06-27-2010 at 1:02 AM.

  7. #126

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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Quote Originally Posted by shewie View Post
    Um, hey Duck, the hospital called. It seems they are missing a cupboard full of bandages. You wouldn't happen to know where they went. Would you?
    No mention of the complete stock of Ti staples going missing ???

    Great valve check guide btw

    Also a great time to change cam chain guides for those who wish ...
    Slowly rebuilding the fastest black one ....... Can't rush perfection

  8. #127

    Member #
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Sorry Duck but if you "wind the CCT fully" you are slackening the cam chain not tightening it ,which is why your cam chain jumped the sprockets.It is necessary to wind the CCT fully prior to removing the camshafts (or the CCT)

  9. #128

    Member #
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Quote Originally Posted by gran1943bikes View Post
    Sorry Duck but if you "wind the CCT fully" you are slackening the cam chain not tightening it ,which is why your cam chain jumped the sprockets.It is necessary to wind the CCT fully prior to removing the camshafts (or the CCT)
    Thanks for making that clear my post probably should have given the direction........ but no I was turning it the correct way.

  10. #129

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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    You can only turn the slot in the CCT one way i.e. clockwise.Doing this retracts the end of the plunger which makes the cam chain slack and the engine should not be turned with a slack cam chain otherwise the chain will jump the cam sprockets.It is also advisable to leave the top horizontal cam chain guide in position when rotating the engine. Hope this helps clarify things.

  11. #130

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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Quote Originally Posted by gran1943bikes View Post
    You can only turn the slot in the CCT one way i.e. clockwise.Doing this retracts the end of the plunger which makes the cam chain slack and the engine should not be turned with a slack cam chain otherwise the chain will jump the cam sprockets.It is also advisable to leave the top horizontal cam chain guide in position when rotating the engine. Hope this helps clarify things.
    I 99% agree with your post but disagree that you cannot turn the adjuster anticlockwise. I have always managed to turn the CCT anticlockwise enough to align the slot with the next cutout in the main body before locking it with the 'key'. If you do not wind the adjuster to take up the slack you would have to slacken the chain in order to lock the adjuster if the slot was currently between the 4 slots in the main body ................ hence my original comment.
    Quote Originally Posted by me
    You need to wind the CCT fully to take up any chain slack before you start turning the crank

    Good point about the top slide, although I cannot see a reason to move this unless the cams are coming out, for a normal check there is no need to touch it.

  12. #131

    Member #
    8007
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    honda blackbird
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Hi Blackbirders
    Doing valves clearance.results are
    1-3INTAKE=0.007
    2EXHAUST=0.009 4EXHAUST=0.007 ( can it be tighter? )
    2-4INTAKE=0.007
    1-3EXHAUST=0.009
    Looks like everything in spec range eccept 4 exhaust. It shoud be looser not tighter i believe? feel a bit confused.Could be incorect alligment of timing?

  13. #132

    Member #
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Could be incorect alligment of timing?
    are the marks perfectly in line with the top face of the cam carrier when you are taking the measurement? If so and you have double checked the measurement then 0.007" is out of spec (should be 0.009 ±0.001 inch so 0.008 - 0.010) ................... thought you would be metric in Ireland, having worked on aircraft bolting I use either!
    Whilst no clearance being out is good I would always prefer to find a 'loose' clearance than a tight one but your clearance is IMHO not far enough out yet to have caused any problems ............... well done for catching it.
    You should re-shim this valve since it will only get worse if left untouched.

    EDIT on the timing marks I assume the T mark is correctly aligned when the cam sprockets are in line. In reality I doubt if the motor would have been running at all well if the timing was out by a tooth .... and due to the profile of std cams if you are not absolutely spot on with the alignment marks when taking the reading it would be almost the same (look at how round the profile is)

  14. #133

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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    The valve clearance can be checked at any area on the base circle of the cam.Hope this helps, Paul

  15. #134
    WB9YPA
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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Well, I've been threatening to do another valve clearance check since the last one at 24,000 miles. So I finally did. Here's the results at 61,770 miles. I've got to yank the cams.

    Note that the valve at No. 4 intake valve (right side of bike) is 0.002" under and both No. 1 exhaust valves are 0.002" under as well. All in all, not really that bad considering the mileage.

    One final note. I didn't find any loose main cap bolts this go around as I did at 24,000 miles! Looks like the blue Loctite did the trick.
    Attached Images
    You don't ride a Harley. It will ride you.

  16. #135

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    Re: Checking and Adjusting Valve Clearance?

    Got mine to do soon ... only reason I know (besides mileage!) is strange noises and backfire's n farts out of the carbs (common with valve issues), she is ridden hard and I'm known for blowing engines ... Just hope she holds out till I get time as can't afford her off the road .....
    Slowly rebuilding the fastest black one ....... Can't rush perfection


 
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