Possible CCT fix

JohnS

Just thinking about the operation of the CCT (as a result of a new noise in my 05 Bird) and it occurred to me that the operation of the unit can be fixed in position easily.

I have never had one apart so feel free to correct me if my assumption on this is wrong.

Under the plug on the end of the CCT is a screw that can be used to release the tensioner for removal. I am assuming that during operation this screw rotates so that it moves away from the plug as wear occurs. For the chain to get extra noise the screw must back out allowing excess slack in the chain.

I have seen a post where they could see the adjuster screw moving when the motor was revved.

Why cant we just use a 6mm screw and locknut instead of the plug. If the screw was screwed in by hand till it contacts the adjuster screw and is then locked in place with the nut, nothing can loosen off and we have the same result as using an APE manual adjuster.

Thoughts please

JohnS

R1000

Clever idea I´ll check later today on my discarded Honda CCT. I'm using a APE manual on the bike.

OZDave

Actually, I can't see a problem with this logic. Surely it's got to be too simple to work that easily.

If it does, there goes John's retirement fund.

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R1000

Congrats, you have come up with an absolutely great idea .

This is what I found trying it on my discarded Honda CCT. There is hardened steel sleeve in the bottom of the CCT when looking into it from the engine side. The sleeve prevents the new M6 bolt to go thrue and securely lock the existing adjuster screw. I tried to enlarge the sleeve from the inside with a drill but it was hardened so the drill gave up . Then I grinded the last 1/4 inch of the M6 bolt down to about 4 mm and cleaned the threads. The tip of the bolt would then reach the CCT adjuster screw and lock it. It even removed a 1 mm lash of the CCT plunge that is there from the beginning. I also removed the spring inside the CCT since it will be of no use after mod.

Then one must find a proper way to seal the bolt, I guess the existing copper washer and an O-ring to the lock nut side would do this. The lock nut should be a flange type that is phased in the end to keep the O-ring in place.



Damn it, I seem to been waisting 100 dollars on the APE tensioner

Thanks for a great hint to the Bird community !

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DragonXX

Outstanding bit of detective work.
This is the reason I have joined a forum like this .... Keep up the good work.
Especially JohnS from Brisbane ... Cheers

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R1000

Here are some pics that show how a worn stock CCT can be modified to a manual unit that, if correctly done, will outlive most other parts of the bike . The stock CCT is very easy to disassemble. I discarded the internal coil spring since it will be of no use after mod.

I enlarged the end of the CCT with a 10 mm drill to create a pocket for an O-ring that seals nicely between the CCT body and the new washer. The CCT body and the drill must be fixed to get a symmetrical phasing, or the drill will come off-centre. I used a M6 stainless steel screw, SS washer and SS locking nut. The last ¼ inch of the new locking screw must be grinded down to 4 mm to clear an internal bushing. Another option is to run a 6 mm thread tap right thru the inner bushing, which I finally did.

Adjustment: Turn the existing inner screw of the CCT until the chain deflection between cam sprockets is ¼ to 3/8 inch. This is what APE gives for their manual CCT and I have been using on their manual CCT without problems.

Finally, install the new locking screw and secure it by the locking nut.

You will do this mod totally on your own risk. In case the locking screw is fastened to hard, the lock spring that holds the plunge unit will brake or come loose inside the engine . I found that even a quite low torque as 10 Nm would press the lock spring out of its pocket. I finally selected to secure the locking screw by hand only (hard finger tight). This will lock the inner adjuster very well. Practise the hand tightening a few times when the CCT is loose and inspectable, and you will get a good feeling for what is needed. After the locking screw is hand tightened, the locking nut can be securely fixed by a 10 mm spanner.

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