#3 big end rod bearing....destroyed

2dealdrive

I've got a '99 with almost 45k and the #3 went out, at first I thought it was cct cuz the noise was so much like marbles, etc. Anyway, it's the bearing and it's beyone recognition almost. So, without any color to go by on the bearing (gone) how do I pick the right one? Buy all 3 and plastigage them? Any help or tips would be appreciated.

thanks

Dan

rodantking

I don't know how you use this bike, but I would wonder why it went before I thought about fixing it.

CCTX_XX

Sorry, but if the bearing is that torn up, the rod journal is probably screwed also. Not to mention the rest of the bearings from all the crap that was pumped through the engine. If there is any discoloration on the big end of the rod, it is probably distorted also. Very rarely when there is a bearing problem can you just slap another one in. Plastigage is worthless in this situation.
I hate to put it to you like that. Good luck.
Mark

X1rider

Send the crank to Falicon for inspection/correction of damage.

2dealdrive

the crank journal looks fine, I will mic it and see what I get. The rod and rod cap look great too, no marks, scorching, anything.

The only thing I changed is the oil, to a 5w-10 Castrol synthetic, everything was fine till about 900 miles into a trip down to Deal's Gap. On the way home I stop for gas and when I fill up, the knock/rattle is there. At first it sounded like ping from piss gas, ya know, engine knock. Then I thought it was the CCT. But turns out it was the #3. Is there any truth to the "don't run synthetic motor oil" claims on another blackbird sight? I don't do long wheelies, just the occasional power one, nothing habitual at all. So, I'm not even sure what made the bearing go. It's had good maintainence from the previous owner as well as me.

shovelstrokeed

No particular truth to most of the reasons to not run synthetic oil but, 5W10 is WAY below Honda's specification for oil viscosity. Particularly in somewhat warm weather. What were you thinking? It is likely that the oil film and more importantly, the wedge of oil that is supposed to support the rod bearing was unable to maintain sufficient thickness to prevent metal to metal contact. Next time try 20W50 or even 10W30.

As to the repair, I would leave it to an expert. Crank and rods to Falicon, along with the rod bearings. I would, on return of the crank, investigate the main bearings as well and check them for wear. Keep in mind, also, that, on many modern engines, rod bolts are a one time use thing. They should be replaced if needed.

Maxx409

I'm afraid I have little to no knowledge on the bearing issue. Just wanted to add my condolences for the mishap. That REalLY sux. Best of luck in getting her fixed. Hope your up and rolling in no time!

Partsguy

5w10? Didn't even know it existed.10/40 is all I use,semi synth occasionally,full synthetic 90% of the time.I'll second what shovelstroked said.
Once in a blue moon you can get a bearing slightly out of place on install but since this motor had 45k on it and I assume it wasn't just rebuilt,I'd tend to think that narrow viscosity oil had something to do with it.

R1000

[quote=2dealdrive;28732]....
The only thing I changed is the oil, to a 5w-10 Castrol synthetic, everything was fine till about 900 miles.....quote]

In case there is a 5w-10 oil available (which I doubt), why did you even try to run a sewing machine type oil in a motorcycle engine

2dealdrive

[quote=R1000;28754]yeah, that's a total missprint on my part, 5w-40 Castrol Superbike oil I think it is. It's their motorcycle specific synthetic oil. Wow, 5w-10, is like what, 3-1 oil or something? That would be pretty crazy to run that stuff.

shovelstrokeed

OK, dat's bettah. Shouldn't have been an issue with 5W40.
If it is really hot, you might be better of with 20W50 but I don't want this to degenerate into yet another oil thread.

I would exercise great caution with this motor. Wiped bearings leave an amazing amount of residue throughout the motor. Even if the crank does not appear to be hurt/burnt, all that metal had to go somewhere and there is no guarantee that all of the bits were large enough to be caught by the oil filter. Where it mine, nothing less than a total dismantle and then a high pressure/high volume flush of all the oil passages would leave me with some feeling of comfort. I would also measure each and every component and be sure that all was within spec prior to re-assembly. A large PITA, I know, but you only want to do this once.

I would pay particular attention to the oil pump and probably would just replace it based on no real knowledge of the root cause.

R1000

[quote=2dealdrive;28763]The 3rd rod bearing is quite strange and not common. I know a guy near here though that have burnt several cranks on the 3rd jornal and he has not been able to find the reason. My guess is that it can perhaps be caused by the removal of the middle layer in the head gasket that he always do. He has got the failure on diffent engines to, but he is always using the same ported head on them. There is a smaller oil passage in the mid layer of the head gasket and perhaps he drains the oil pan in some situations due to that. Or if he wheelies to much by the bike and it also has a lot of power, more than 160 rwhp at very high rpm's. I have 157 quite strong rwhp's (uncorrected) in mine and have never had any problem, I removed the top layer of the head gasket though and the head is milled etc.

2dealdrive

crank sent off to falicon for journal rebuild and polish.