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A turbo project..

15K views 73 replies 18 participants last post by  stallion2497 
#1 ·
I wrote some questions before in other threads about turbo and i though i could share my build from a Swedish forum as i try to take lots of photos for documentation and so on. I am currently trying to finish my master in mechanical engineering in combustion engines here in Stockholm, Sweden so i happen to have access to mills, lathes and a water cutter and thought i should build this while i can, or else i might have to buy my own equipment :)

However i am not done yet but i am getting close to being able to start the bike, as this is from a ongoing thread on a Swedish forum i'll just leave some shorter comments around the pictures.

Flanges and pipes in stainless steel
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Had to build a holder first to see how close to the front wheel the radiator would end up
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First pipe spot welded so i could build a jigg to replicate the same location between the connecting stud pipes and the turbo flange.
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Cutting each runner one at a time and than i matched them at the flange
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A bit nerv wrecking to see if they fit but they did :)
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A ghetto pre-heat before welding on my small heater, left a friend who has worked as a welder to do the narrow and hard to reach parts..
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The shiny result after some chemical cleaning and polishing :)
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My very tiny but full of things garage
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The only bolt on part i have found yet is the fuel pump..
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Had to make an adaptor to be able to connect the hose to the end of the fuel rail as the original fuel pressure regulator sits directly on the fuel rail.
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One successful and one failed part for connecting the oil feed line to the turbo
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Time to build some plenum chamber, bought a half completed part that i found in another thread here. It was a turbo kit not really complete for a 1100xx but the plenum was very pooly made so i should have done it from scratch but with some rebuilding it ended up lookng quite good. Had to make the funnels inside also.
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Time for some attention at the engine, i started with checking the valve clearances and on one cylinder there was almost no clearance at all so i suspected the valves or valves seats to be a bit knackered and it ended up being the valves.. reground and mira-cut valves seats and were "back on track" :)
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The compression is lowered to around 9:1 with 3 head gaskets stacked and i use loctite 3020 for some extra sealing and overtighten the head studs just a tad bit..
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The cams are asjusted to 105 degreed lobe center on the intake cam and 106 on the exhaust cam.
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Building a mount for the wastegate
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Time for the engine to get back in to the frame :)
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Building a downpipe, will use 3" all the way and a 3" muffler.
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Fuel pressure regulator and a mount for it
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Thats were the blow off valve sits
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Time to build a intercooler and make it fit in front of the radiator. The radiator is off a 97 1100xx and the intercooler is bought as a build kit from mc-xpress. The fans are from a R1 07-08
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Will continue to update as the build goes on, my goal is to start it before January ends :hmm:

Pictures at the end, how do i remove them? Guess they are bonus pictures..
 

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#32 ·
So i have finally been to a dyno and have a proper map and setup with the boost compensation. Got a call from Andersson-turbo that he had some time over and rode the bike there. I now finally have some evidence in the dyno papers that my build isn't a turd :)
After some theory talk with this guy Peter who has been building turbo-bikes for the last 20 years we strapped it down on the dyno and i was nervous. I have access to another dyno at a shop where i work sometimes but i thought this being the first time mapping a turbo-bike I'll leave it to someone with vast experience and learn some by being there.

The plenum chamber seems to be a success according to Peter, if it's to small and lacks some proper velocity stacks you can see lambda values being way off in the base map but we did not see any of these tendencies. These would be du to self oscillation at certain rpm-values but this worked very well. Also on the non boost map i had ported the internal wastegate to not build any boost and this also worked better than expected.

Arrived at the dyno..
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Peter is concentrated and I am nervous..
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Sorry for the poor video quality it's filmed with a dirty lens on my phone..


And the evidence: 250 Hp 190 Nm at the wheel, probably 265-270 at the crank at 0,8 bar boost. I am gonna adjust the boost to around 1 bar and will do another dyno pull later. Should end up at around 280 at the wheel then. Someone has a signature here that says a turbocharged bike will blow your mind and i agree, it is insane even at these "moderate" powers compared to what some people have. For a streetbike it is more than enough :thumb:

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Very happy now! :)
 
#33 ·
:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:

You must be a very relieved man!
Great build and now with the fuelling sorted you need not worry that you are hitting any lean spots.

I've found 200 rwhp 'interesting', you are in for some fun :smilebig:
 
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#35 ·
Sweet!
 
#36 ·
Oh man. Wow. The 140+kph power wheelies, and the way it just snaps the front end up. Drool. You need a two-foot longer swing arm. Lol. Pure awesomeness.

What are you using for an exhaust? It sounds really nice.
 
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#37 ·
Thanks! It is a bit freightning sometimes and at 5:55 i get a massive wheelspin out of a corner :) The muffler is handmade by a local old guy that usually builds hotrod exhaust systems. It is just a straight 3" full flow muffler packed with stainless steel wool, sounds just loud enough without being too noisy on longer rides.
 
#39 ·
I love this thread the illustration here is awesome!! I have to ask, Do you have any kind of drawing ( hand or cad ) that was used to create the fixture base plate that you built.
I need to build a header for my XX as well and having one of these would be fantastic to work with!!
I would SO greatly appreciate it, if you could share.
Thanks
 
#40 ·
Yes of course, is there any file format you prefer. I have done it in Solidedge but converted it to .dwg to be able to use it in the watercutter. I guess that will work for you also?

Thanks guys for the positive comments, it is fun to show whats going on in garages on the other side of the world! :)
 
#44 ·
I forgot to post a video of it when i whack the throttle properly and i would need a longer straight but anyways here is a few short clips of it before i start taking it apart as winter is coming here. Running 1,1 bar boost now probably close to 300 rwhp now :) I don't hit full throttle in the vid and shortshift as the front wheel tends to rise into the sky very quickly. For the winter i am going to change pistons as i don't know how long the ringlands will last on the stock pistons.

 
#46 ·
very impressive ! i wander how hard it would pull on 68 wheel base with full throttle !
mine pushed 248 on 6 psi but i use e85 big race cams and 1mm bigger valves and 80mm je pistons and gtx3076r so 280 on 1 bar is verry impressive great job sir
 
#47 ·
Dang it that looks like a lot of fun at one bar. You definitely have to pay attention. Is it possible to adjust it back to say 1/2 that for daily driving with just a little fun? And then wick it up when playtime gets serious?
 
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#48 ·
Hello everyone, thanks for the last kind words!
Here in Sweden winter has arrived and i have started taking the bike apart to change some pistons and connecting rods. I also decided to not go for an aftermarket fuel injection as this has worked out so well for this amount of power. Changing pistons is only due to the ringlands being prone to breaking with the doubled torque. Thought i might as well change the rods when i disassemble the whole engine and all crank bearings.

Seem as if my cheap rebuild of the head has held together and the valves show no wear since last year even though Honda say that you shouldn't grind them. Just lapped them lightly to be sure they still seal 100%.
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Making the turbo entry look a bit nicer as the original finish is quite uneven..
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Second hand pistons, i think they originate from Sayf here but i could be wrong. Bought them off a guy in Sweden that never installed them.
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As i am waiting for Crower connecting rods i had a look at there torque instructions and the recommended way is to measure the stretch of the bolts. I had a quick look at Ebay and found many rod bolt stretch gauges so i had a go myself at building one and i think it turned out quite nice. :)
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Honda piston after 78000km and 6000 of them with turbo.. Amazing!
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#49 ·
Nice tool you have made there drg180, I find it most satisfying deciding I 'need' a tool and then making one.

Seems like your motor held together well, decent rods are never wasted cash in my world (not that you are suggesting they are) I've seen too many rods making sharp exits through blocks over the years ..... never pretty!

That thought reminds me of my rallying days. When a rod let go it always took out the alternator so you listed your retirement as 'electrical' ...... far less embarrassing :smilebig:
 
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#51 ·
So i am still waiting for my connecting rods from Crower. It is frustrating to wait this long but i try to do as much as i can so i just can put the engine together when they arrive. They said that they will be ready to ship this week so we will see..

Built a piston ring grinder of my old proxxon hobbysaw, cost was a few cent for the stone grinding-disc.
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Also measured the real compression and it does not really match with the stated 9,5:1 from Je.. It will be just a bit lower than with the 3 headgaskets.
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Was a pain the last time to use a normal dial indicator so i improved the way of measuring the cam lobe centers by taking a lever dial indicator instead and making a small holder that is screwed in the cover screw holes.
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I have also ordered a 19t compressor house and impeller so i will need to make the chra-diameter 2mm larger for the exducer size of the 19t impeller. :)
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#52 ·
What a fantastic build! Bravo! to all the good engineering involved with your project. Once you make all your needed/wanted updates and ride it for a few months it would be time to crate it up. Then ship it to the USA and come out to Bonneville Salt Flats for a run at top speed.

Usfra home page

I'd even ride form Ohio (1900 miles) to be in your pit crew if you need help to get into the 200MPH club. I can take good photos too. lol
 
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#53 ·
What a fantastic build! Bravo! to all the good engineering involved with your project. Once you make all your needed/wanted updates and ride it for a few months it would be time to crate it up. Then ship it to the USA and come out to Bonneville Salt Flats for a run at top speed.

Usfra home page

I'd even ride form Ohio (1900 miles) to be in your pit crew if you need help to get into the 200MPH club. I can take good photos too. lol
Thanks for the kind words and invitation! That would be amazing but the logistical planning is a bit of a job to sort out..

Today i finally received the Crower rods and they do look very nice. :)
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#56 ·
drg
Keeping an eye on all of this. Going to be picking your knowledge for a parts list I think and starting down the same road as you. Would enjoy making a clone of your setup over here state side in the future.
 
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#57 ·
I must say the Crowers look much nicer than the normal H-beam profile rods that all look the same including Carillo. Crower are 100% Usa made and i know many H-profile are China-stuff nowadays. However mainly for cars though but H-profile does not seem to always stand for quality when many copies exist. You ask car people what rods they have here in Sweden and they answer H-profile and just the importers name which sounds fishy to me.. It feels nice paying for quality stuff i think :)
 
#59 ·
So finally i get to put the engine together, had a little mishap with being a bit to fast on building.. I suddenly realized i have new piston rings and that i should hone the cylinders lightly to make them seat properly. So i started off with doing the piston and conrod mounting 2 times but it now feels better :) Only took a day extra..

Just used a simple stone hone hand tool 280 grit with lots of engine oil to make some new hone markings to make the new rings settle. I know people tell you not to use these but with engine oil instead of wd-40 they make quite shallow marks and it looks and feels fine. The purpose is not a complete rehone only for the ring wear on initial startup.
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Everything cleaned and dried. Hard time to keep the cylinders from not getting any surface rust. Had to flush them with wd-40 instantly after washing.
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Just wanted to reassure that they have the exact tolerances and believe me Crower rods are the nicest aftermarket rods i have seen so far.
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Finally got to use my tool and it even fits on all bolts in the crankcase when installing the rods. Stretched to about 14/100 mm or 0.006" It turned out to equal about 45Nm on the torque wrench.
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Hope to have the engine in the frame in a week or two. :)
 
#62 ·
these are my old pistons ! 79mm .
the reason there abit lower is because i asked je to put more meat in the crown and make the dish abit dipper so if i remember right the cr was 9.2.1 .
looking good ! i would balance the crank and get rid off the balancers too !but make sure you tap an allen head screw in the number 3 cylinder here is some of the magic i did latly Auto part Engine Automotive engine part
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