MotoRacerGabe

which part number is it?
one for FI and other for carb'd birds?

Ronayers.com Fiche Desktop Motorcycle Honda 1997 CBR1100XX ALTERNATOR

MotoRacerGabe

anyone have any feedback on this one:

Honda CBR1100XX Black Bird 1997-1998 Ricks Stator:eBay Motors (item 200358624006 end time Jul-31-09 08:57:10 PDT)

MotoRacerGabe

I ended up ordering this stator:
Honda CBR1100XX Black Bird 1999-2003 Ricks Stator:eBay Motors (item 350172626100 end time Jul-29-09 11:02:52 PDT)

I ment to order the 97-98 stator... I wanted to give the ebay stuff a chance and i heard "rick's" stators are decent.

is it okay to switch over the harness connector? switching the 99-03 stator connector to the 97-98 connector.
here are some pics. the first one is the 97-98 stator and the second is the one i received (99-03). I would think I can and I pretty sure I will do it.

I think i read a some time ago about someone doing this, but i am not sure. if no one knows i guess I can be the guinea pig

also, I did not think about getting a new gasket for the stator cover to the engine. I have some of the stuff to make a gasket, I think I will do it that way. that's good, right?

Attached Images

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	Image001.jpg (31.7 KB, 6 views)

MotoRacerGabe

TheDuck

The later stators have a higher output .................. I wouldn't go there.

MotoRacerGabe

damn it... The seller does not accept returns... I sent him a message anyways. I'm so dumb, I didn't look at the year. I was just trying to order it quick and didn't even think about it.

getsarge

Gabe, I think I may need your 99-03 stator...hit me a pm and let's chat a bit.

__________________
Semper Fi

testrider

Why? If it fits, a higher output stator can only do good.
Does it physically fit in a 97-98 bird?

Mine is a 97 too. If it fits, I can sure use a higher output one from
the later models.

MotoRacerGabe

I am using the stator. I put it in and am getting great readings from the stator but at the r/r the readings are going dead. i am still trying to figure it out. i have been very busy lately... working on my house (new homer owner here )

onoff

Any updates on your charging problem??

MotoRacerGabe

I am having a problem at the r/r, but only SOMETIMES. I took the bike in to the mechanic. He's gone through 3 regulator/rectifiers trying to figure out the problem. The stator is putting out plenty of charge, but randomly the r/r will just die. we cannot replicate the situation. We can be getting a great charge then a second later, the r/r is dead and the battery is draining.

my mechanic is going to wire up the system outside the harness, maybe some wires got fried and are contacting other wire(s) and shorting out the system, killing the r/r ?

i've been wanting my bike back for so long

onoff

My 98 Blackbird is having very similar problem, so far just two regulators got fried, the OEM that came from the factory and a $35 replacement from eBay..
I have a third regulator on order.

birdmanxxx

Get a yamaha R1 regulator rewire it and problems solved R1 regulator is better than any of the stock r/r or after market r/r's

onoff

which year R1 regulator?

shewie

I'd be looking for an loose ground and checking all connections in the harness.

__________________
If you don't like the way I ride then stay off the sidewalk.

birdmanxxx

I used a 98 regulator it has the same wires just different colors there is a post that tells how to so it

MotoRacerGabe

i am pretty sure i got a 00-01 R1 regulator/rectifier

About: Changing the Honda Reg/Rect

onoff

Does anyone know the power generating difference between 97-98 Blackbird stator vs 99-07 Stators?

Here's a pic of the stator that's currently on my 98 Blackbird..

http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...X/SUC51547.jpg

Does it look like a OEM stator for 97-98 model?

MotoRacerGabe

^ the one i now have on my XX is a 99-03 stator. it looked exactly like the one that was already in my bike (stock, original). The only difference was the connector to the harness. I wired it up and am getting great readings from the yellow wires.

I honestly cannot tell if that is OEM or what. The one I got was not OEM, but looked exactly the same as the original...

MrEarbrass

You checked the voltage at the battery, did you check cold cranking amps? My R/R just went and I checked the battery with the volt meter as you described and it was in spec (12.4 volts at rest) but I took it to the battery shop just in case and found the CC amps to be about half the spec for the battery. I replaced both to prevent one from destroying the other again.

onoff

Yes, I checked with multiple batteries, they are healthy at 12.56+v when connected to the bike w/key off.

Cold cranking amp doesn't seem to have the problem since the bike starts and runs perfectly, even after ridden 20+ miles without the stator charging the battery.

Poundstretcher

Don't know where you guys get the Idea that a battery showing 12.5v at rest is healthy. A fully charged Bird battery should be reading 13.2v at rest. If the battery is only holding 12.5v that is more than likely the cause of the R/R working overtime and burning out.

MotoRacerGabe

right, right now my battery reads around +/-13v with no load, not running. Even after a couple days just sitting, mine will be around 13v. I had my mechanic check it out and he says it's good. I just got it this past February (or march)

onoff

12.5v when lights on, engine not running/idling... battery reads at 12.8v when key off the bike... 12.86v when disconnected, off the bike.

What are your battery readings?

Edde

Gabe, we all are on pins and needles what finally happened with your bike? What did your mechanic find was you problem.

MotoRacerGabe

Waiting on an after market regulator rectifier. He should be getting it today... Hopefully this will be it. I'll keep you guys posted.

MotoRacerGabe

I still think the bike is just mad at me for making it a WHITEbird

Scrappy

Could be, but the hassle it has given you is pretty odd and I'd be tempted to unplug the ECU, kick it around the garden for a bit, spray it with GT86, plug it back in and perhaps fiddle/reroute some of the wires (as anything that carries electricity oscelates at frequencies that match the length of the wire and can cause interference .. just a thought) ......

But yes, spray it Black and check the results

Poundstretcher

Perhaps I misunderstood you I thought you had 12.5v connected with key off & Mrearbass thought 12.4v was within range. These figures are no good for the R/R to work with and will more than likely burn it out. 12.8v is ok but only just. My battery is 12.9v+ but is now 5yrs old and will be replaced in the next couple of weeks. Up untill 3 months ago I had 13v+. I make sure it is kept fully charged if not used for longer than a week.

Poundstretcher

hope it cures the prob man. Let us know