neoeddy

I replaced all of my signals with clear lenses and all bulbs as well (types 1157/1156 front/ rear, resp. But, when turning on the right [or left] signal, the front turn signal goes out or is no longer lit. The rear flash rate appears to be normal or detect a slight rise. Not sure though.

Has anyone run into this. What could the problem be? And what are my options? Fyi, I used the Clear Alternatives products.

I've researched a little and found a resistor/relay for the Bird (3 wire system) called the Flash Equalizer Pro ($37.50 @ VFX Accessories Inc. - Innovation for Sportbikes and Customs - Flash Equalizer Pro).

Or I've read the wiring of 4, 6 ohm resistors, spliced into the hot + ground. Is this the cheaper/better route?

Do I have a circut load problem and therefore need either of fixes above? Electrical heads chime in...


Some help, please. Thanks.

TigreST

If you assume that the loading for the replacement bulbs is stock, which from info I've read indicates they are, then the flash rate and operation should be normal.

The front signals glow as running lights during/while the engine/key is running/on. They are a three wire unit with double elements in each bulb, standard makeup of the 1157 bulb. The bayonette mount design uses two staggered pins to locate the bulbs in the correct orientation to the contacts in the base of each bulb socket. It is not hard to cross these staggered pins up and actually get the pins mis-aligned to there contacts in the base of the socket. The end result is some cases is that the running light functions somewhat,..but the front signal turn indication does not work when reguired. I'd suggest, if you have not already done this, remove the front signal bulbs, take note of the staggered mount pin design and then be sure to match up the pins to the correct slot in each socket so that the contacts mate in the correct manner in the base of the socket.

Failing that I'd suggest you re-install the old bulbs (clear ones I'd imagine came stock with the color'd lense install) and see if the problem remains. Just be sure you get those pins aligned correctly also. If the stock bulbs work (no reason they should not) then have a real close look at the new bulbs to ensure the bulbs your using are in fact 1157's ( The FSM calls for 12V-32/CP3 bulbs which cross over to 1157's The rears 12V-32CP cross over to 1156's)

Tony

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"Stemmata quid faciunt."

neoeddy

I've gone over the bulb swapping and have confirmed proper alignments of the bulbs and their pins. Problem w/ the old ones is that their dead and now think the bulbs take a different load. The bulbs do go in only one way, unless forced of course. So, I've done this part thoroughly and that's why I'm posting.

Another probability is that, I may have connected to the signal load wires WHEN I installed supplemental marker lights. Not sure though but if I did, my circuit would be "off balance", right? If this is the case, then I think I need to do the next inexpensive step: go the _wire in_ resistors or go with, what I believe to be, the sure thing.

Anyway, I do want to run the new bulbs and I shouldn't be limited to the OEM design.

What do you think?
Neo

TigreST

Hmmm,
These internet electrical trouble shoots are always something of a challenge. You maybe might like to attempt to explain this .....

"WHEN I installed supplemental marker lights."

....line first. Are these meant to flash with the turn signal function or are they just a running light?

If they are just a running light addition I'd suggest you connect them to the "all ways on" side of the tail light circuit and not the portion of the front signal "running light" circuit...if this might be what you have done.

As a bit of a test (prior to major wiring re-work) can you unplug the "supplemental" bulb?...or do a quick disconnect to remove them from the issue? This may allow you to get your near to stock lighting back to a normal function.

I would also advise the you check polarity on the "supplemental" lighting to ensure it is in sync with the rest of the harness. I only say this based on a bit of info that came with some Philips Lockhart Mini stalk signals I purchased. They related that getting the polarity of the lights correct would effect how hot they ran when lit. Reversed polarity might melt the plastic housings on some units (mine were of alum. construction so no worry of melting, but...).

My trouble shoot technique in most electrical instansis is to revert to the stock config (if possible) or at least take the newly install hardware out of the equation if possible. If your resolve the issue having done this then it will be time to re-visit the install techique of the new hardware and see why or how it is interacting with the normal function of the stock hardware.

If you have changed out all your bulbs to the 1157's and 1156's (which are near enough stock replacements for the bike) then it should follow that the stock equipement should perform as per normal, with a stock or near to stock flash rate as controlled by the thermal flasher unit. LED's replacement bulbs in stock locations will alter the stock flasher performance. But this is not your concern is it!

Tony

__________________
"Stemmata quid faciunt."

neoeddy

I agree with your process. I'm going back to square 1. I've done several accessorizing (the next thing are heat grips) to make this a learning process and be more aware next time. Although I'm sure I followed all wiring instructions.

Thanks for the great advice.

I'll let you know how things go in a few days but I'll check-in to see if any other comments come up.

Peace.
Neo