Ya I had my stator go on my first XX at 52K......

Interesting that he uses a Y - more voltage but less amperage per phase (not line) than a Delta. There must be another advantage, but aside from the obvious need for fewer windings (less copper) I can't figure out what it is. Damn old age memory. I'll have to check my books and see what I can find.

My primary RPM would be somewhere between 4 and 5k, I think, depending on who's watching.

I would say my cruising RPM is about 4k or 130kmph

98 w/47K miles (bought with1169 miles 1.5 years ago) and the stator is still good so far. Most of those miles are at 80 to 85 miles per hour and half are early in the morning. I'm usually between 4 and 5K RPM. I changed the regulator around the 20K mark with one from a FZ-1 Yamaha. Not because the original failed but as a preventive measure. I had a brand new one left over from the 03 I had. I have rode through 2 summers with the temps in the hundreds.

Originally Posted by dad

A multimeter should show 14.2V pumping while the shows in action. Anything less its Stator time.

When the stator wears to a point that it cannot provide the correct volts, the complete computer controls go haywire bigtime and quick!

Luckily I was 20Kms from home when mine went.

So when you say the complete computer controls go haywire bigtime - do you mean that it is ruined or once you get the stator replaced all things are back to normal?

Thanks,

Originally Posted by MotorPsych

So when you say the complete computer controls go haywire bigtime - do you mean that it is ruined or once you get the stator replaced all things are back to normal?

Thanks,

depending on the fault with the stator you can still see 14v from the charging circuit, if for example onhe winding of three goes open circuit the stator will still produce current but it will be a third less so only when you start to load it up with lights fans fuel pumps etc etc would the charging circuit struggle and start to use power from the battery - the next thing you will notice is that when you go to start after an engine off the battery will not have enough charge to run the starter motor, with 2x windings and no lights on a carb BB you could probably go on for ever but an FI bird because of fuel pump you'd eventually completely discharge the battery even with lights off

So the point I'm making here is if one winding goes down the effects are not obvious except for trouble starting on a FI BB and the only way to diagnose is by reading each of the three stator windings with a meter on AC volts, the fault will be obvious or you could do it the Thai way and just brush each of the 3x winding wires against the frame 2 will spark and 1 won't lol

Originally Posted by MotorPsych

So when you say the complete computer controls go haywire bigtime - do you mean that it is ruined or once you get the stator replaced all things are back to normal?

Thanks,

MOTO
No your computer is fine what we are saying is that on a FI bird you will get other indications as described above. Once you replace the stator you will be fine.

my 2000 xxy went kaput I thought it was the r/r as the battery was fried but did not want to risk the electrics damaging the ecu etc so I replaced all of the charging components . stator coils r/r/ and a new battery .milage was 33000

Mine is a 98 with just 30k miles only failure is the r/r. I got a new one from the o1 r1 an ordered the new plug (no choice as it burnt) to fit the r1 r/r for a nice clean plug up.

Related but for an off topic machine: Honda Canada came good to the tune of approx. $450.00 for parts and labor to replace my 2007 1000RR/R stator. They extended the warranty on Fireblade stators.

Tony