depends on how strong your r/r is.
the more load the bulbs are producing the sooner your e-system will get a problem.
you still have the oem r/r inside?
the next thing: the switches are made for 55W, so they can build up some charred areas where they make contact.
but from the system as it is it doesn´t matter if you run 35W, 55W or 100W.
The headlamp wiring is not heavy enough, IMO, to feed the stock 55w units, let alone a 100w lamp running full time. As heisti pointed out, the starter button switch contacts are also very delicate - too delicate to last long under the inrush current a 100w filament will draw. For short bursts it would likely be fine in the high beam socket, but I think you should really consider heavier wiring and a relay if you want to run it in the low beam (dip) position.
The headlamp wiring is not heavy enough, IMO, to feed the stock 55w units, let alone a 100w lamp running full time. As heisti pointed out, the starter button switch contacts are also very delicate - too delicate to last long under the inrush current a 100w filament will draw. For short bursts it would likely be fine in the high beam socket, but I think you should really consider heavier wiring and a relay if you want to run it in the low beam (dip) position.
yep be careful,I was advised to run a 100watt in my fazer6 and I used it for a day and removed it as another friend said it was potentially trouble, 3 months later I had headlight trouble and had to put it in the shop,it had fried some electrical junctions.
Possibly. The ballast likely has an operating threshold that will cause it to break down if current falls below it. Heavier wiring can't hurt. I have no flicker on my HID.
Hi All, I guess this topic is mostly done to death but when upping the load on the alternator and rectifier, we need to consider the systems limitations. Going to 100W adds 4 amps and Honda isn't known to build extra capacity into their circuitry. Think about adding greater luminescence for the same wattage bulbs. The wiring harness barely handles the power provided standard as in the past I've seen burnt junction pins which lead to burnt out rectifiers. I now worry about having added heated grips and a PC3. I'm thinking about LED Brake and tail lights.
Not saying that this is how it went, but my response in a conversation with a customer changed greatly if they were looking for an inexpensive option.
I personally would give them the full option list that was possible and then the one that I actually recommend and for what reasons. Some HID kits are not cheap and some people do not care to spend the money for a quality kit.
That being said, if I was not going with HID's I would then go along the lines of Partsguy. I am pretty sure that the PIA lights are supposed to draw the same watts or close to the same watts as the stock bulb but have a greater light intensity. They are just not the same quality as a good HID set though.
dont have a single problem running my hids I have hi and lows and no flicker at all.I didnt realy them at all.I install hids professionaly in cars and bikes all the time and i have seen the flicker issue before.Usually its the ballasts that people use.If you read on your ballast it should have the Nominial operating voltage.Lots of the cheaper EBAY kits are 13 volt nom some of the better digital ones "The ones i use"Are 12.8 nominal.As long as you dont have any pre existing voltage issues running a set of HIDs with the proper ballasts will present no problem.Ive installed soo many kits ive lost count and ive seen most of the issues be with the ballasts.now if you want to be on the safer side you can use a relay and use the factory Low beam positive wire to trigger your relay,The lead in on the relay to battery and the output to your HIDs,Many companies already make a Prewired relay with all the needed plugs and terminal ends to acomplish this.Its a safe investment and when i get my new RR and rewound Stator for my Bird im going to run my own fuse box and relays since im going to have a ipod,Heated grips,Hids LEDS and alarm on the bike.
I have adjusted the rectifier and the gauge thermo and full boomsh bar on the woof dingle header and woweee that makes no difference.lol
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